20 foot seacraft deck

[cape man]

Can you post some pics of what you are doing? Also a pic or 2 of the whole boat? My first real boat was a 20ft Sport Craft with a 1.6 liter OMC Sea Drive. Really miss that boat. I traded it for some roofing work when the SeaDrive died.

[lelandtampa]

I put 3 pictures in my gallery. Basically I know this tank is going to swell in the vertical dimension. I am wondering if I should put some fuel in the tank so it swells so I know where to screw my tank hold downs into the stringers.

[cape man]

Dummy me...you have a Sea Craft, not a Sport Craft...

[fallguy1000]

I have my poly tank placed with rubber strips below it my question is this: should I put fuel in it now in order to see how much hydrocarbon expansion I get prior to mounting my straps across the top so that I don't have e to guess how much it's going to swell? Floor in that section is not installed yet.

Install at ambient temps...say 80F. Allow 3% all directions. You don't install loose to 'allow'.

Pressure test at 2 psi and you'll see what happens. Air, not fuel.

[lelandtampa]

So I am at the point where you need to buy more resin and the glass for my sole . I had been using raka epoxy since I got a real good deal on 2 of their 3 gallon kits. I think i am Going to switch over to marine epoxy from bateau but how long should I let the Raka cure before I can layup with marine epoxy over it? Also anyone have any experience with these 2 brands interacting? I have 1/2 marine fir installed with a Triple resin coat on the bottom and I want to use either 12 or 17 oz biax for my top layer. 1708 is such a pain to wet out compared to the regular biax. Largest span will be 24" between the stringers but I have bulkheads and hatch lips supporting it. 12" or so span from the outside of stringer to the hull side with epoxied on cleats along the hull side just like the Seacraft tutorial. I also plan on taping the console down inside and out to avoid mechanical fastening.

[fallguy1000]

All those epoxies use bisphenol as a hardener and despite their musings are highly compatible chemically. Just allow a full cure past the raka no sand window and sand for secondary bonding.

No need to use a 1708 on the deck unless specified by the designer. A 12 oz is the bare minimum for not allowing deck water penetration per a well known UK designer. It would be best if you added tapes and then the 12 oz up and over for a bit over the minimum requirements.

[Fuzz]

More expensive and most likely over kill but I would go with two layers of 12 oz biax. That way I could stagger the butt joints and never have any fear of my deck not having enough glass.

[fallguy1000]

More expensive and most likely over kill but I would go with two layers of 12 oz biax. That way I could stagger the butt joints and never have any fear of my deck not having enough glass.

12 oz is the nicest to wet out, you just have to baby it when it is dry as it can be snaky and the stitching on mine likes to run..(light thread)..

[lelandtampa]

Got casting deck built glassed and rough faired with balloons. Anchor locker faired and bilgekoted. Anchor locker bulkhead tabbed in and door test fitted. Lots of fairing still to go.

https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gall ... 067/source
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gallery/image/6064
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gall ... 065/source
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gall ... 066/source

[lelandtampa]

https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gall ... 069/source
https://forums.bateau2.com/app.php/gall ... 068/source

As you can see the Hull glass is green with a layer of carpet glue (original)
then white paint I'm guessing 1980s alkyd.
then OD green sprayed over the whole thing. Done in 2008 by previous owner to duck hunt out of the boat.

I recored the cap with nida core and 1708. It's pretty stiff.