Privateer roamer skiff project

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
greymare89
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Privateer roamer skiff project

Post by greymare89 »

What is the best way to support the hull for deck removal once it is removed from the trailer? I want to replace the deck on an old privateer, hopefully I don't need to replace the stringers but I'm sure I'm just dreaming.... I know the old privateers are notorious for rot. I'm trying to do an "economy" build to be used for duck hunting, clamping, scalloping etc so I don't need it to be picture perfect. I would like to however remove the cap to make it easier to install the deck and make necessary repairs to the cap itself. This will leave the hull flimsy.
My original plan was to run 6x6 railroad ties under the keel and chines for support once the boat is off the trailer. Is additional support needed under the boat? Is is just as good to leave the boat on the trailer (roller trailer) . Thanks
Last edited by greymare89 on Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Aripeka Angler
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by Aripeka Angler »

Welcome! And good luck with your rebuild.
The key words in your question are “economy build”.
I’d leave the boat on the trailer even though it’s a roller type in order to save time and money.
Richard
Completed boats...XF20 "Red Alert", Aripeka Angler's Strip Canoe, FS18 “Bare Bones”, GF12
Currently building...PY12 Kayak
If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water. - Loren Eiseley
Bare Bones build thread...
viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62146

Fuzz
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by Fuzz »

Are you going to be able to leave the boat in one spot for the rebuild or will it need to be mobile? If you will not need to move it I would take it off the trailer and then set it as close to the ground as I could. The reason for it being low to the ground is to make it easier to get in and out of. And you will be climbing in and out lots more than you think.
On or off the trailer the hull will need to be well supported at the keel and chines so it does not change shape. It will amaze you how floppy the hull will be if you end up cutting the stringers out. The railroad ties will work good just make sure they support the hull over a large area.
The advice from AA is good. It will save time and that is money :wink:

greymare89
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by greymare89 »

Thanks for the replies! I frequented this site years ago when I rebuilt an 18' privateer and I recieved a lot of guidance and insight. Having said that, I know there really is no such thing as an "economy" build when it comes to rebuilding a boat..... I just want to try and save money where it counts and not waste it on needless bells and whistles and un necessary build steps. Although the 18 footer came out nice I feel like I wasted a lot of money on things like a new rub rail, cleats, kiwi grip etc.
I had one other question regarding tank location under the console. If everything pans out and the stringers are salvageable, I'd like to install a moeller tank under the console with the batteries and fuse panel on a shelf just above the tank. If the stringers are shot, I'm going to do a complete gut job which will obviously entail a lot more money. Am I asking for trouble with a potential explosion. Will I run the risk by even if I plan on leaving the tank/ batteries open to the elements and not closing it off with a door or cover? Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

greymare89
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by greymare89 »

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Fuzz
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by Fuzz »

I think it would make me nervous to have both the gas tank and the electrical parts in the console. If done that way I would want them well isolated from each other.

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by OrangeQuest »

There could be a federal law that would say that you should not mount a battery directly above or below your fuel system but that could be seen as not Appling due to being an outboard motor driven vessel. - common sense would say not to do it.

FEDERAL LAW:
183.420 Batteries.
(d) Each battery must not be directly above or below a fuel tank, fuel filter, or fitting in a fuel line.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

greymare89
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by greymare89 »

I know common sense would dictate this is not a good idea so I'm not even sure why I asked the question. I guess I'm just a little hesitant to install a below deck tank because I've never done it before. I want to make sure it's done right so I can avoid problems in the future. Since the deck is already going to be out I guess the cost difference between the above and below deck tanks will be minimal.....

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by OrangeQuest »

You could leave the tank there just move the battery. Most the time you want the battery closer to the motor so the starting wirings don't have to run to far. Is it going to be a portable tank?
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

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Re: Hull support off trailer

Post by pee wee »

There are a few advantages to going portable tank:

build/rebuild is simpler
installation is less expensive re: fill hoses, vents, etc.
easy to remove tank for filling at gas station
easier to empty tank so fuel doesn't get too old
fewer penetrations through the sole, less chances for water entry
easy to inspect the tank
easy to replace the tank
Hank

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