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Hi Guys,
We are beginning a new adventure, building our fisrt small boat and would like to share with you our progress....


1- The choice of the project: The Cat Boat C12:

- after experiencing sailing with a Laser in amazonian's rivers, we felt the need of the few things that the Laser wasn't offering us: oars, bigger internal space, and a classic navigation style... to fit in a more natural way this beautiful landscape... we believe that wood would better compose the scenarios...

- the C12 seems a good first option for test as it looks one of the easiest to begin...

- its size is also good for us for transportation and future practice and needs.

- we are also looking forward experiencing as soon as possible sailing with him, so we wanted a project feasible, and in a short period of time.

- Money was also a criteria

2 - From the road to the sea
In order to fulfil this dream, we have sold an old VW TL 1970 and invest the amount of money we've got in this project. This is for this reason that the name of this boat will be TL70.



3- Our Shipyard





4 - Fisrt day of work: May 16th
We have designed on the plywood the bottom one side of the bottom panel, seat tops and frames. For the bottom panel, we add to adapt the piece division according to brazilian plywood dimension: 220 x 160 mm. We intend to project this form after cutting it on another plywood in order to get the second piece of the bottom side.













This is it for today, we will try to keep you inform to share the full process

Great start. Thanks for sharing your build with us!

Good job It will be fun following along!

Thanks for posting and I love the name of the project.

Good night to all,

Today we cut the pieces we have designed these last days. It took approximately 4 hours to accomplish this step. The next step will be to assemble the 2 pieces of side and bottom panels.

We are still not really sure about the glue to be used for the butt blocks. Is it epoxy and filler only, or do we need wood flour?
To our understanding, we need to saturate first with epoxy only and then use epoxy and wood flour to glue both part together… is it correct?
Many thanks in advance….

Sharing few pictures of this new step with many thanks for the support, we really appreciate having the opportunity to share with this community.

Great work guys and yes, thank you for sharing.

First you put on just the epoxy, know as wetting it, followed by a mixture of epoxy and wood flour.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2K66a3GG5o

Nice work guys!! Look forward to following your build!! Jeff

Great job so far

Hello everybody, many thanks for your support.

@Orangequest - thanks for the link, really useful

We have one question regarding the rudder. We would like to customize it and make a pivoting rudder as we will use it from beaches also..

Few years ago Michel did a C12 with this adaptation as well...



We found this picture on this forum but couldn't find some technical plans or explications.

Would you have some recommendation or orientations for us?

Merci

Du & Audrey

I designed a fixed rudder blade because, on that boat, I think it is the best type of rudder. However, you can modify it.
The best way to do that would be to use the CV6 rudder (the CV16 is a 14' boat).
I don't have access to the plans from where I am now.
Email BBC and ask them to send you drawing B102/5.

Many Thanks Jacques. I will send an email.
We will do both, the fixed one and one from the CV16 to try.
Our main concern regarding the fixed one is that we have mainly beaches here to put the boat in the water and thought that we may have some trouble with the fixed one. But we would like to test it anyway as we wish

When using the fixed one, use very small screws to fasten the gudgeons (female part) to the transom. If you ever beach the boat fill speed, the screws will let go without breaking anything. Or use anything else that can act as a fuse: break something cheap and easy to replace.

Thanks Jacques, understood, we will follow your advice

Today we have finally finished to assembly side and bottom panels with butt blocks.
As it was the first tim we have experiences expoxy, it took us a little time to get used to its viscosity...

We did the butt blocks process as follow:

1- Cut and the butt block from the plywood



2- Saturate all the part of wood that would be in contact with epoxy.

Regarding the preparation of epoxy and hardener, it has been a bit challenging. We were looking for some recipient to get the right proportion 2/1 but due to the viscosity of the resin, it was quite difficult to be as accurate as we would like to be...





We have also realized that doing small quantity was easier than preparing more that we may need immediately as the texture seems to change and get hard quite quickly..







at this point we didn't know how long we add to wait to glue with the filete... We have read about the "point of the gel"... but as it was late and we didn't know if that point would be in the next 2h or in 10h as the total time to dry was 24h... we went to bed hopping to reach that point early in the morning. But in the morning it was already dry. So we have sanded the areas that would be glued together.

We then prepare the misture, with epoxy , hardener and wood flour. As we didn't found wood flour, we decided to do it, but realise that it wasn't that good and will found a new solution for the followings...

.

Here is the result:



And then assembly parts together and put weight on it... waiting to see the result tomorrow...

If there is a wood shop anywhere near you it might be a source of wood flour from sanding operations. You might be able to get a large amount and use the strainer to get the fine wood powder.

piperdown wrote: ↑Fri May 24, 2019 11:32 pm If there is a wood shop anywhere near you it might be a source of wood flour from sanding operations. You might be able to get a large amount and use the strainer to get the fine wood powder.

Many Thanks we found a source of wood today in a city around. But it is not as fine powder as we imagine, so we'll need the strainer as well. We are now ready to continue

Have a nice day

Good night,

a little update about the last days... We've attached and stitched the panels (bottom and side) together with plastic ties:

At that point, we have realised that we did one butt blocks's side panel in the wrong side of the plywood:































Once attached we test the position of the frames and realised that fhe frame B wasn't in the right position as showed in Jacques'drawings... actually it is 20cm forward.... is it a big issue?
We are considering adding an extra frame in the original position of frame B to reinforced the structure... does this sound a good idea?

The following day, we have saturated the seams with epoxy,









and once dried did the putty fillets... we took some time to get the right fillets putty consistency... at the beginning it was too liquid but understand in putting in practice...









Today we began to test the fiberglass on the seams... but have some interrogations?

- Do we have to cut the fiberglass type the whole seams side or can we cut it in the middle? because some seams have more than 3 meter and in Brazil, we don't have fiberglass tape, we buy a kind of fiber tape tissu...


do you have some recommendations for working with this material?

If you are interested, you can see more fotos on this link: https://www.maripoulain.com/projeto-tl-70/

Thanks for being with us, it is a challenging but really interesting experienced...

It is great watching you put this boat together If it were me I would cut the glass however it worked out the best for me. Not sure what you are using for glass but I am pretty sure the finished product will end up being stronger than it has to be. Most of us builders over build to some degree.

Your build is looking great!

Nice build guys!!! Jeff

Did you place another butt block on the inside of the boat on the panel? If not, I would add the butt block on the inside and after it cures I would sand down the butt block on the outside hull.

Had to convert metric to inches...lol, 8 inches out of position frame. Not sure anyone but JM can tell you if you need another frame or to cut it out and re-position. The frames are structural AND are in locations to allow a boat that is fair.

If you don't have fiberglass tape, get what you can and cut it to the width and length you need. It is better to have long strips but if you cannot get long strips you can overlap the strips by a couple of inches (at least 5 cm but I'd go 6 cm).

You are not the only one or the first one to glue a butt block on the wrong side. After putting one on the correct side just remove the wrong one how ever you have to. If you mess up the plywood some it is not that big of a deal. Epoxy and fillers can fix almost anything

piperdown wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 7:56 am Did you place another butt block on the inside of the boat on the panel? If not, I would add the butt block on the inside and after it cures I would sand down the butt block on the outside hull.

Had to convert metric to inches...lol, 8 inches out of position frame. Not sure anyone but JM can tell you if you need another frame or to cut it out and re-position. The frames are structural AND are in locations to allow a boat that is fair.

If you don't have fiberglass tape, get what you can and cut it to the width and length you need. It is better to have long strips but if you cannot get long strips you can overlap the strips by a couple of inches (at least 5 cm but I'd go 6 cm).

Hi Eric, thanks for your feedback, and sorry for the inches conversion

Did you place another butt block on the inside of the boat on the panel? If not, I would add the butt block on the inside and after it cures I would sand down the butt block on the outside hull.

Regarding the butt blocks, we were considering keeping it like that. Integrating the external one in the design of the hull and reinforcing the inside with fiberglass and epoxy... would this have impact in the structure? because removing the wrong butt blocks looks quase impossible without damaging a lot the plywood...

Had to convert metric to inches...lol, 8 inches out of position frame. Not sure anyone but JM can tell you if you need another frame or to cut it out and re-position. The frames are structural AND are in locations to allow a boat that is fair.

Regarding the frame, we will wait for Jacques instructions... we don't feel really confortable in changing the structure of the boat ...

If you don't have fiberglass tape, get what you can and cut it to the width and length you need. It is better to have long strips but if you cannot get long strips you can overlap the strips by a couple of inches (at least 5 cm but I'd go 6 cm).

Thanks for the advice, we will do it as you suggest

Fuzz wrote: ↑Sat Jun 01, 2019 3:15 am You are not the only one or the first one to glue a butt block on the wrong side. After putting one on the correct side just remove the wrong one how ever you have to. If you mess up the plywood some it is not that big of a deal. Epoxy and fillers can fix almost anything

Hi Fuzz,

We don't feel really confortable in removing the butt block as it really looks really glued, so we were thinking to sand it a bit as suggested by Eric and use it as part of the design of the hull...

Regarding the inside, as explained in the answer we have made to Eric, we were thinking of reinforcing it with fiberglass and Epoxy, as the shape of the boat looks pretty symetrical and aligned. In this case, we won't put a butt block in the correct side. Is it a wrong idea according to you?

Many thanks, and have a good week

Hi everybody, we are facing a big rain period here in Sao Paulo so are waiting for a better weather condition to continue our built....

But we are thinking about the next steps and have few questions:

1- Regarding the inside fiberglass, from the fiberglass laminations orientations, we understood we have to cover all the inside and outside seams with fiber glass tape. However, we are not sure if it is also necessary to cover the rest of the inside with fiberglass fabric? or only the outside.
If fiberglass fabric is not necessary to cover the inside of the boat, how should we finalised the inside, with epoxy only? epoxy with wood flour?

2- we have an issue with the middle frame position, Jacques, if you see our message, could you kindly advice if it would be ok to add an extra frame in the correct position? The one we cut is 20cm in forward the right position

many thanks, a nice day to all

It will take a while to sand down the outside butt block but you really need to so that the boat is fair. Just a bit of time.

No worries on metric. I have the conversion in my head since at work I go back and forth between the 2.

I don't have the plans to the C12 so can't help with the fiberglass cloth lamination schedule. Send an email to Jeff and/or Reid at BBC and they can help with the this question.

Jacques is on vacation with very limited access to internet. Might be a while before he sees this question.

Many thanks Eric, really clear explanation.

I will send an email to BBC team and wait for Jacques to be back to take the decision regarding our aditional frame

One thing at a time and let me know if I forget one.
Butt block: I don't have the plans with me but, in some cases, I use the butt block as a reinforcement. Look at your plans: if that butt block sits just under a frame, it is needed on the inside. In that case, the dimensions I show for the frame, take in account the thickness of the butt block.
If you can, add a butt block on the inside. If it is too late, if the frame is already fiberglassed, double the fiberglass tape there.
If the plans does not show the butt block under a frame, forget the inside butt block.

Whatever you do, that outside butt block is going to look weird. The boat will sail just as well but it doeas not look good. With a good gr=inder, you can grind ti down in a few minutes and add a layer of glass tape.

Dimensions: why do you need a conversion? The plans you receive are in imparial and in metric. Anyway, that is a minor problem.

I don't understand whihc frame is misplaced. but you can always add a frame. Whic frame is this?

Hi Jacques,

Many thanks for your answer.
Regarding the butt block, it is a butt block to assembly to pieces of plywood of the side panel. But it sits under the frame, so for sure we need to add an extra inside.

Regarding the metrics, yes, we have all the information in meters, but it was just to answer Eric, because for most of you, I guess, inches is more usual

Regarding the frame, we have realised that the one we done it correct... because it will be cutted in the middle to put the Center board trunk... that is the reason why it wasn’t fitted in the hull....

Today we will install and stitch the frames. And tomorrow, hopefully we will fiberglass the bottom of the hull.

We are still with interrogation regarding how we should fibreglass the inside with fiberglass fabric? Before or after the frame,but thought it should be better after:-)

Some pictures of our lasts days of works...

Sanding the seams to remove the extra putty fillet.



We then cut the fiberglass tape to build the fiberglass seams. As we didn't found fiberglass tape, we have used and cuted a fiberglass fabric 200mg.







We primed the plywood, wait a bit and then apply the fiberglass on the wet putty.







When drying, we cut the rubber, tiller, centerboad and centerboardtrunk:











Regarding the centerboard, we have an interrogation regarding the hole to be filled with lead ballast... should we cut the hole and put lad ballast in both pieces of plywood of the centerboad or just in one? We think it must be easier to make just one to fill it but don't know if it will be correct regarding the weight of the lead.... what do you suggest?

many thanks, Audrey & Durval

You're making such good progress I don't know if this will be useful to you anymore, but one method to help in removing a butt block would be to use a circular saw set to almost the thickness of the butt block and make many cuts near each other, then a chisel to remove the bulk of the wood, then sand the last of it smooth. It may seem like a lot of trouble now, but I think you'll be glad once it's done and you're looking at a smooth hull.

Looking good! You are making great progress.

One trick to make the putty smoother is to use a tongue depressor (stir stick) and drag it along the corner from each side after applying the putty. The rounded end of the tongue depressor makes a very uniform fillet, pushing the lumps out of the way and filling the low spots. I usually apply a little too much putty into the corners then use this method to remove the excess.

Hi Guys,

long time we didn't connect to answer, but we are carefully considering all your advices when it comes the moment to take the decision.
Many thanks to Narfi and Eric for their precious advice.

regarding the outside butt block of the hull, we sand it, but realized we won't make it disappear that easily and won't get a smooth result so we have decided to keep it for this time. We will try to make this mistake part of the design .

Regarding the putty fillet, we had a real fight with the putty. I don't know if the fact that our wood flour wasn't as thin as flour, but with small pieces of wood, but the putty was too liquid. We have spent a long time in each seams, waiting and correcting the putty. We have used a tong depressor, even if it doesn't look like Maybe it is necessary to wait more time for the putty to solidify before applying, but then the time is really short to make the work... But the good news is that we makes it better for the bottom part of the hull....

here are some pictures of the process...

We have turned the hull and checked the dimension... And we were very happy because everything was good

We begin to sand, apply putty fillet and begin the fiberglass lamination.













Regarding the fiberglass fabric, even if our fabric was 1,3m large, we have decided to cut it because we were afraid not to be able to apply the resine correctly in suche big areas. We are aware that we are using much more fiberglass fabric than necessary and hope this won't have a negative impact ...




It is har dto see in the picture, but we are living really close to the river, so we can hopefully easily test the boat in the water







We are waiting for the hull to dry and have begin working on the Rubber and Centerboard:









We will know have to find out how to do the lead ballast with plum with sound quite challenging...

We also didn't understand yet the mechanism we need to do for the Rubber to ne locked and unlocked once installed in the boat...

Many thanks for your help and recommendations.

Até logo

You guys are making great progress! I think the weight of the center board holds the centerboard down so when it hits something under water it gives.

Extra glass will just mean extra epoxy and a little more weight.

Hi guys,

Thanks Orangequest

We are now waiting for the last epoxy and fiberglass part to cure... and in the meanwhile, we are working on the mast project.

Our idea is to use a sprit rig with a bamboo spars (as we can find here easily really strong giant bamboos).
However, in our plans' specifications, we just found the information for a Marconi rig and it says that for a sprit rig, all dimensions are identical.
But we are not sure about that and didn't understood... which dimensions should be identical? should we maintain the Sail Area or the luff, foot and leech? How to define how high should be our mast with a sprit rig?

Many thanks in advance

Bom dia, meu nome é Beto, também sou do Brasil, mais precisamente de Ipaussu interior de São Paulo, já construí várias embarcações em compensado naval com fibra de vidro e resina epoxi, caso queiram alguma dica podem me adicionar no whatsapp (14) 99773-5707, também sou velejador e remo bastante stand up paddle. Abraços

Good Morning to all!

Happy to share our progress with you. We did a little break because of epoxy overdose hehehe

We ha finally finished to fiberglass in the bottom of the hull:



We have cut the fiberglass fabric in many pieces as we didn't feel we will have the ability to deal with big piece.



We then turn the hull, check the position of frame B and seats and begin to fiberglass the inside and to install the seat C. Today we will install the seat A.

















We are now studying the mast and lifting system for the centerboard...

regarding the mast, we are considering a bamboo mast as used by brasilan embarcation "Jangada Cearense" or "outrigger canoa" as we bought some wood to test but it is really heavy and look for a lighter solution and also a shorter one.
Jacques, what would be the impact of the shorter mast on this project. We are thinking of a mast that wont exceed the boat size.
Someone have some recommendations for this sail? As the mast will be shorter, should we consider the sail to be larger?







Regarding the lifting system, which material is recommended to be used for the painter (lifting line)?

Many thanks in advance and great day to all of you

Du & Audrey

The build is coming together nicely!!! Keep up the good work.

Here is the email questions you sent me today. I am going to rely on Jacques to provide some feedback.
Talk to you soon,
Reid

We are continuing our construction and are now dealing with the mast and lifting system of the centerboard.

We found of the website the tutorial of the Centerboard Lifting System for small boat but are wondering if it does exist a more complete document for this installation. We are not sure about the painter (lifting line) to be used. Is it a line or a piece of metal?

And regarding the mast, we are considering to use bamboo, as it is really abundant here around (Brasil) and has been used in a lot of local embarcation. Do you have some recommendation regarding the use of bamboo. Also this will impact the high of the mast. Probably shorter than in the original project.

Finally, one more question regarding the position of the centerboard in the centerboard trunk. Once in the water, we imagine that the centerboard will do a 90° angle with the boat. We already did the centerboard/trunk mechanism but before installing it on the hull, we want to make sure that the position of the opened CB in the water will be correct. Because when we manually test the system, the angle of the opened CB with the CB trunk is around 120°, it opens more that 90°. Should we think of a solution to block the CB in the 90°angle position. If yes, how can we make it?

Many thanks in advance for your time and recommendations.

Kind Regards,

Audrey and Durval

About the painter. It is just a cable or even a metal rod. I prefer a cable (line, rope). It's attached to the CB and goes through a hole with slot like this:
http://bateau2.com/howto/centreboard.php

Bamboo mast: that will not work, sorry.

For the CB being able to swing 120 degrees, the solution is simple: adjust the length of the painter (lifting rope) so that it does not go further than 80 degrees.

Many thanks Jacques.

We had seen the tutorial for the lifting system and thought we we’re missing something but with your answer we understood that it is more simple that we thought.

Regarding the bamboo mast, could you just explain why you say it won’t work?
We really have no idea, but are studying a lot about this possibility, so any additional information is really relevant for us?

Many thanks in advance and enjoy your holidays

Kind regards

Centerboard successfully installed

we first check the centerboard and centerboard trunk mechanism was working fine







and adjust the frame to position the centerboad trunk in the middle...







... till everything was well aligned...





We then have marked with tape the hole to be cut...







and cut it ...this step is quite scary....







and the result



We finally fixed the centerboard with fillet and fiberglass tape









Regarding this step, we now just need to finalize the least ballast part of the centerboard...



... and fixed the centerboard with the pivot in the trunk once it will be dried...

Nice progress!!!! Jeff

Some updates of our catboat

Fiber glassing the inside part of the hull



Finishing the centerboard trunk inside part after turning the hull







We have then begun to sand and paint the hull bottom part





and worked on the rubber fixations... testing first









Nice weeks to all,

Durval & Audrey

jacquesmm wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2019 11:20 am About the painter. It is just a cable or even a metal rod. I prefer a cable (line, rope). It's attached to the CB and goes through a hole with slot like this:
http://bateau2.com/howto/centreboard.php

Bamboo mast: that will not work, sorry.

For the CB being able to swing 120 degrees, the solution is simple: adjust the length of the painter (lifting rope) so that it does not go further than 80 degrees.

Jeff wrote: ↑Wed Jul 03, 2019 8:08 am Nice progress!!!! Jeff

JM, DuEholic had this question:

Regarding the bamboo mast, could you just explain why you say it won’t work?
We really have no idea, but are studying a lot about this possibility, so any additional information is really relevant for us?

Bamboo mast: not strong enough. It could work with a small chinese lug sail. I tested that in Haiti on a boat similar to the FL14 but the setup was different.

jacquesmm wrote: ↑Tue Jul 09, 2019 9:33 am Bamboo mast: not strong enough. It could work with a small chinese lug sail. I tested that in Haiti on a boat similar to the FL14 but the setup was different.

Manu thanks Eric and Jacques !
We will follow your recommendation and make the mast in wood.
What would be the easiest way to build it considering we need to do it in 2 parts?
The total weight of the mast does impact the whole structure?
Regarding the fabric of the sail? Would you have some suggestion, as we will have to make it by ourselves?

Many thanks,

Hi guys, good night to all.

Here are some of our last pictures...



































still working on the mast construction.... lots of interesting wood works.











beginning to adapt a cart for the boat:



more fotos and videos: https://www.maripoulain.com/projeto-tl-70/

Wow!! You guys are artists, that's a real showpiece you're building!

Very nice work!!!! Jeff

So many good pictures, love this one,



Also love your chess board and map, lots of great detail and art going into your projects

narfi wrote: ↑Wed Aug 21, 2019 1:27 pm So many good pictures, love this one,



Also love your chess board and map, lots of great detail and art going into your projects

She doest know yet she will sail with us

narfi wrote: ↑Wed Aug 21, 2019 1:27 pm So many good pictures, love this one,



Also love your chess board and map, lots of great detail and art going into your projects

She does'nt know yet she will sail with us

Hi Guys, hope everybody is fine on board...

On our side, we did a little break with the construction as we didn't know how to build the mast and adapt a sail... We have taken this time to study a bit more about navigation. And spent some time in the beautiful Brazilian coasts few pictures at the end of this post...

But in November we pretend to finally sail... and wish to get some inputs from you to help us to finalise as soon as possible as we fell a little bit blocked at that point...

We already have the following elements, and now need to build everything together...

- Mast Partner and Mast Step are ready



- Aluminium Spar in 2 parts that will be joined: 3m + 3m = 6m total



- We bought a Laser Sail that have almost the same exact dimensions specified on Jacques' Sail Plan (Marconi)

• Luff: 5,10m
  Foot: 2,70m
  Leech: 5,50m

- And have also already installed on the boat all the SS accessories (swivel block, eyebolt, to attached the halyard, the pair of shrouds and the SS cable on the transom.

Our difficulty now is to understand how to join the sail and the mast. As our sail is from a laser, we could actually fit it directly on the mast, as we did on the picture... But with the pair of shroud, this is not an option anymore... or should we pierce the sail at the height of the shroud attachements?

However, we understand the best option would be to be able to raise the head of the sail once the luff is attached to the boom along its length.
Should we consider to instal a mast track slider?

Many thanks in advance for your orientations...

Durval & Audrey


Few pictures of our trainings here around...getting closer to water

Nice progress guys!!!! Jeff

if you want a fully raise/lower sail then you will need to do a track. But I don't think you will need a full track.

Jaysen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:36 pm if you want a fully raise/lower sail then you will need to do a track. But I don't think you will need a full track.

Many thanks Jaysen, do you think half track would be enough? just in the upper part of the mast?

Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 2:41 pm Nice progress guys!!!! Jeff

Thanks Jeff Thanks for supporting

DuEholic wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 5:20 pm

Jaysen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:36 pm if you want a fully raise/lower sail then you will need to do a track. But I don't think you will need a full track.

Many thanks Jaysen, do you think half track would be enough? just in the upper part of the mast?

You’d still want to secure the lower section. But using track above and rings lower would make it easy as you wouldn’t have to worry about alignment of track on the mast (if I recall you have a two piece mast).

Jaysen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 5:25 pm

DuEholic wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 5:20 pm

Jaysen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2019 3:36 pm if you want a fully raise/lower sail then you will need to do a track. But I don't think you will need a full track.

Many thanks Jaysen, do you think half track would be enough? just in the upper part of the mast?

You’d still want to secure the lower section. But using track above and rings lower would make it easy as you wouldn’t have to worry about alignment of track on the mast (if I recall you have a two piece mast).

yes it is a 2 pieces mast, so it would be definitely easier to use track only above... i am also worried with the alignment. Many thanks for your suggestion

We were also considering another option, but i couldn't find any information about it, so maybe it is a wrong ideia... What about using a steel cable attached really close to the mast as an "external track". This way, we won't have any trouble with the 2 piece mast alignment... but in the real life, i don't know if the cable would remain as closed as the mast as we imagine in this scenario....

That’s the same principle as a stay sail. This is how most fire sails actually work. you need to get that stay really tight which will put a lot of pressure on the mast. But this is all small scale so we are to talking tons like in a larger boat. I would.
1. Put a guid block on top of the mast.
2. Put the bottom stay anchor ON THE MAST as a through bolt.
3. Run stay from aft anchor, over guide, down to other anchor.
4. Turn buckles on both anchor points.

You still need the halyard block at mast head to raise the main. If you want it to ride smoother make sure the anchors and guide block at top give you 1/2” (2cm) clearance for the sail hanks.

Tony (terullian) or Bob (Capt Ub) May have better ideas. They have a LOT more experience than I do.

Sounds like an adventure. Take pictures.

Many many thanks Jansen, sorry for the late answer, we were out of sinal those days...

I think we understood... but .. as it is our first construction, we have some nautical vocabulary terms to learn to be able to picture out exactly your recommendation but i guess we've got it
Would you suggest a video illustrating your answer so we can be sure?

Well, I don’t think such a thing is really done. Let me see what I can find!

I can’t find anything like what I’m suggesting. Give me a day to draw it and post. Want to be a little less “beer influenced” before I set pencil to paper.

Hi Jansen,

We try to understood and we get your idea, which actually is one option we are considering.
We also receive another suggestion, which would be: Fit the sail directly on the mast (as Laser sail are ready for that), so this part will be fixed and we won't have to raise the principal, and as we are talking about a small boat, and if we need to quickly "close" the sail, we pretend to fix the boom in a way we could bringing it boom back against the mast.

Sorry for our delay to answer, we are currently in a remote place without a great connection.

Have a wonderful day and thanks again for your support:-)

That’s how my sprit rig works. I think you’d be fine with a laced on sail.

Good luck!

good night Guys ! Thanks so much for the help ever! We are already almost 80% of our CatBoat .... I have questions about floating! Is any additional floating plan required? as used in Optmist? thank you very much ?

Is it easy to divert the boat if it happens?

regards !!!
thanks so much !!!

ON A MIS LES VOILES Ready to sail

First sailing day in Paraty... what a beautiful sensation

Thanks to all of you for sharing with us these moments...

Durval & Audrey

Congratulations! The boat looks really great and it looks like the two of you were having a good time

Beautiful sailboat!! Looks great on the water.

Gorgeous!

a little video of our catboat sailing

https://youtu.be/izEhxYu7OCI

Congratulations!!!! Very well done, Jeff

Nice, looks like you're having fun with her!