Well just after the shortest day we had three consecutive days of fine settled weather in a long weekend. So I got a little done.
Rear motorwell compartments now have lids, glassed both sides and taped in. 200g on the outside and 100g inside. 100g is a very light cloth, almost surfboard quality and really only serves to stop minor abrasions and checking. It costs very little so is worth it in my view. I applied a bit of fairing to fill the weave as well, before final cure but don't have a photo as it's under plastic to keep it warm enough to cure.
Transom U-bolts are installed. Sealed in with 3M4000uv in an overdrilled and epoxy filled hole. The sealant makes an ungodly mess. I thought I'd ruined the aesthetics, but a rag with acetone works wonders.
Inspection hatches also sealed in on generous amounts of 3M4000 as a gasket. Should be sealed tight against water, but time will tell. Normal use should not see a lot of water in there, and both sides slope down to the holes draining into the motorwell sump anyway. About the only way I can see water getting in is if I take a wave wrong and need to use the scupper tubes to bail. Then water would run over that lip.
I've decided to have the gunwales at the back of the boat level rather than sloping outwards. Slightly easier to build and gives a nice seat. I'll run a gunwale lip over the motorwell as well.
I drilled a hole in the sump earlier for the transducer. Not installed it yet, but it's drilled a 9mm plywood backing plate is in, and the hole is sealed. I'll sand and put some more epoxy on it before sealing in the transducer.
C17 in New Zealand.
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- * Bateau Builder *
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- * Bateau Builder *
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Days are getting longer and warmer so it’s back to the boat. I’ve left the plans behind; my word, it slows things down!
I’ve cut out the front and side decks and got some cabin sides on. I couldn’t figure out how to get a closed cabin the way I liked it so will leave the roof off. Compared to the plans my boat has a bit more room in the cockpit in front of frame C, lowered cabin sides at the front and a more angled windshield. All those parts were cut from scrap 6mm plywood. The windshield was a real pain building it piece by piece and templating from the boat. But I prefer this to wasting a whole sheet of plywood cutting it in one piece then discarding all the holes. Paint and fairing will cover all my sins and the Perspex will likely be tinted as well.
A biaxial carbon sleeve arrived today from Amazon. That will go on two 35mm wooden dowels that will form supports for the t-top. Then I’ll wrap a layer of glass over the whole thing to protect the carbon. Hopefully I’ll be able to clear coat but paints an option as well. The top will be made from 6mm ply and built off the boat. Just about the last thing I do will be to glue it in place.
I’ve cut out the front and side decks and got some cabin sides on. I couldn’t figure out how to get a closed cabin the way I liked it so will leave the roof off. Compared to the plans my boat has a bit more room in the cockpit in front of frame C, lowered cabin sides at the front and a more angled windshield. All those parts were cut from scrap 6mm plywood. The windshield was a real pain building it piece by piece and templating from the boat. But I prefer this to wasting a whole sheet of plywood cutting it in one piece then discarding all the holes. Paint and fairing will cover all my sins and the Perspex will likely be tinted as well.
A biaxial carbon sleeve arrived today from Amazon. That will go on two 35mm wooden dowels that will form supports for the t-top. Then I’ll wrap a layer of glass over the whole thing to protect the carbon. Hopefully I’ll be able to clear coat but paints an option as well. The top will be made from 6mm ply and built off the boat. Just about the last thing I do will be to glue it in place.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Slow progress with the weather and finishing school for the year. The boat is nearly completely done structurally, just console lids and glassing the gunwales and outside cabin. It’s satisfying to get the little details in place and thinking about how I’m going to use it.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Some progress photos.
It's basically done structure wise. I've got glass on all surfaces that are going to get it, and there's just some fairing to go really, before the fittings go on.
It's basically done structure wise. I've got glass on all surfaces that are going to get it, and there's just some fairing to go really, before the fittings go on.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Photos of the hardtop. I’m calling it that though it’s more like a t-top. 6mm ply 1800mm by 1100mm. Slight camber in it, glassed on the top with carbon fiber (just because) and underneath a bit of wood framing and light glass. The underside will be left bright and the top will be painted white. I’m going through the design process of the supports but it will be as light as possible. The top weighs about 10kg currently. I’m thinking that it will be bolted in so I can remove it for storage.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Looks good! Did you laminate in a form?
Any notable takeaways after laminating with cf?
Any notable takeaways after laminating with cf?
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
I just supported the plywood from both sides and then laminated the cf over the natural sag of the wood. I used WEST 207 and wet out the wood underneath first. Then with help from my son rolled out the carbon. Then flipped it and let it sag the other way while putting on the glass. Not much sag as the cf is now in tension. Then I cut the wood beams, about 3/4” by 1 1/4 inch and kerfed them. Glued them in place with some weights in the middle to keep the plywood cambered a little. Final result is about 1” camber or less. I wanted it just cambered enough to let water run off and to stop the plywood from vibrating. More camber would require a form for sure.
Cheaper than a metal t-top by far but the metal one would look nicer. It’s a good option for someone that wants to put a longer lasting top on an existing metal framework though. I’m doing everything myself that I can so I’ll make wood cf and glass supports for it. I’m still working through those details, making it up as I go.
Cheaper than a metal t-top by far but the metal one would look nicer. It’s a good option for someone that wants to put a longer lasting top on an existing metal framework though. I’m doing everything myself that I can so I’ll make wood cf and glass supports for it. I’m still working through those details, making it up as I go.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Seems to be the way to go once the panels are glassed around the mold!
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
At last! Pictures of a real work area and not one trying to be an operating room.
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Re: C17 in New Zealand.
Place is a mess for sure. But it's nice to work under an actual roof, rather than in a tent.
I'll clean it all out properly when done, but right now I'd just mess it right back up again so why bother?
I'll clean it all out properly when done, but right now I'd just mess it right back up again so why bother?
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