Sharkbait PG20

[sharkbait2576]

Also, what type of wood do you guys use for the rub rails and spray rails?

[FluidDynamic]

System three Quickfair. After you put your fiberglass blanket on the hull, I would use a mixture of micro balloons and epoxy to fair the hull. Some people put a coat of epoxy over the micro balloon mixture to help with pin holes in the future. Quickfair is used to fine tune your fairing after the majority of your fairing is done. It’s really expensive.

[sharkbait2576]

Also, what type of wood do you guys use for the rub rails and spray rails?

Any help on this one experts?

[FluidDynamic]

You can laminate marine plywwod for rails with scraps. I used southern yellow pine for skeg and spray rails and glassed over it. I've read that some people us douglas fir. There is a good read at the top of the power boats forum about skegs and sprayrails. You can opt not to fiberglass over them if you use a hardwood, but they will have to be replaced every so often. Hopefully glassing over mine will help with longevity.

[Dan_Smullen]

Also, what type of wood do you guys use for the rub rails and spray rails?

Any help on this one experts?

Not an expert but have experience of doing it, wait for it, once.

I found off cuts of 6mm marine ply works best for my rub rail, although the lamination of them to the hull was a hectic process. I spliced the layers together in length before glueing them wet on wet to the boat.

I used white oak for skeg and strakes. No glass on them, but coated with neat epoxy and faired in with progressively lighter layers of fairing. JM tells me they’ll be fine once primed with epoxy primer.

[FluidDynamic]

Glassing them adds a lot of time. Using southern yellow pine on mine gave me no choice other to glass them. I think I really spent more time fairing the skeg and spray rails than I did the hull. It's your choice. If I were to make the decision again, I would have used a harder wood as Dan Smullen did.

[OneWayTraffic]

For my little dinghy I received the really good advice to trace out the shape of the rubrail before stitching. Just use the top of the sheer panel. Since the pg20 is a straight line in 2D you won’t have any bother. Just rip some straight lines from the same sheet you cut the panels from. Stagger overlaps and optionally glass over once you have the gunwale on.

It’s the change of shape that makes a rubrail tricky to bend. Follow the hull shape and it’s so much easier. I used clothespegs as clamps and almost no pressure.

If you glass over them some bed liner paint or something will provide protection, or you can fair and use the good paint. Your call.

Skeg: I made mine out of marine ply from a rejected stringer layup. There were some gaps in the glue so I had to plane round and glass over. Filled a couple of bubbles then a very thick coat of silica And Aluminum Filled epoxy over. This looked like crap but a grinder and then hand board with 40 grit sorted that. I’ll put a couple thinner coats on and call it done. It will be tough as nails.

[OneWayTraffic]

Spray rails can be done from ply and glassed or a hard wood. I’d cut the first layers from ply, Round the edges, glass over. Then either screw or glue a strip of hardwood on top. Maybe some thin teak decking?

Instead of spray rails at the chine I’m trying a little reverse chine, with a putty filled dam. Getting a consistent angle on it is tricky but no one will be under the boat looking at it except me.

[Jeff]

Sharkbait, QuickFair is a SystemsThree SilverTip Product. It is by far the best fairing product we sell. We have never had a complaint with QuickFair!!! I hope this helps, Jeff

[sharkbait2576]

Thanks guys! I've got some supplies on the way. As soon as I get some work done I'll get a few more pictures up.