Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Thu Jun 18, 2020 10:28 pm**

Well, I graduated from college in December and have been wanting to get a boat since then. I finally took the leap and bought the SK14 kit. It arrived yesterday evening and I got all the plywood pieces out today. I am hoping to make a lot of progress over the weekend.

This is my first build ever. Between these forums, lots of YouTube, and the help of a more experienced builder (my dad), I am hoping to put together a boat for duck hunting, fishing, and just exploring my area. I'm really looking forward to this project. I will post pictures along the way!

Posted: **Thu Jun 18, 2020 10:39 pm**

Welcome to our little group

I am sure you will get any help you need. Lots of SK-14s have been built. Post pictures of each step and ask questions as needed.

Posted: **Fri Jun 19, 2020 8:21 am**

Welcome to the Builders Forum AggieGirl!!! Congratulations on graduation in December!! We really look forward to watching your build of the SK14!!! Again, welcome, Jeff

Posted: **Fri Jun 19, 2020 11:42 am**

Congratulations on graduation and the build project. I built one and love it. It's a fun project that ends up with a fun boat. Keep posting and many will follow along.

Dougster

Posted: **Fri Jun 19, 2020 12:19 pm**

Welcome! It looks like you have a lot of tools available to you. Have fun working with you dad and post lots of pictures!

Posted: **Fri Jun 19, 2020 7:34 pm**

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on embarking on a boat building project.

It looks like you have either an American Water Spaniel or a Boykin. I’m a fan. Currently have an American Water Spaniel, the fifth one we’ve owned. Hunted a lot of ducks with them all over from Canada down to Arkansas.

Best wishes on the success of your project.

Posted: **Fri Jun 19, 2020 11:16 pm**

Here's my progress from tonight: I used a multi-tool to cut out the pieces and ended up with tabs all around the boards. After work tonight, I started cleaning up the edges of the boards and getting rid of the tabs. This took a couple of hours which is probably overkill but I am happy with the results. I probably could have done it faster using a different method but it got done! I'm going to continue with the build over the weekend!

Posted: **Sat Jun 20, 2020 5:28 am**

Welcome to the forum and the boat building world!

Posted: **Mon Jun 22, 2020 12:14 pm**

Make sure that you head over to the below thread to log your youthful age! You are the youngest one right now!

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=65049

We are glad to have your thread going. Please keep updating it!

Posted: **Mon Jun 22, 2020 10:52 pm**

Made some good progress over the weekend and this evening. I glued the puzzle piece joints together and laminated the transom. For the puzzle piece joints, I mixed the resin, hardener, and wood flour to around peanut butter consistency. For the laminating the transom, I didn't use as much wood flour so it would be runny and ooze out when clamped down.

Here are the puzzle pieces glued together with the wood flour mixature. I have the slow hardener which gives me lots of time to work and correct any mistakes.

Used some weights and dumbbells to weigh down the pieces. I left everything alone for 48 hours and I am happy with the results.

Here is the transom being laminated and clamped/weighted down. I ended up using every clamp in my garage and still wished I had a few more! Oh well, it turned out good despite wanting more clamps.

When I took the clamps off the transom, there was some damage to the plywood. Not sure what the issue was but I will need to do something to fix it. I have attached pictures below, advice on what to do with this would be appreciated!!

Tomorrow I am planning to sand any uneven surfaces and prep for stitching.

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:14 am**

I do not see to the problem. I would not worry about it now. When you go to glue things together you can fill any low spots then. This style of building is very forgiving. Small gaps are good

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 8:07 am**

Yes, what Fuzz stated. You can fill in where the ply was pulled up later. Everything is looking good. I little tape where the clamp meets the wood will give you something the glue holds onto but you can remove the clamp without taking bits of the wood with it. Then just sand it down smooth. Wrap the tips of the clamps in tape before use. The silicon rubber tips are also useful but slip off and then hide all the time.

Think not having enough clamps is an issue, wait till you start sanding and think you have enough sandpaper!

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 8:58 am**

AggieGirl,

Looks good so far! Nice progress!!

Don't worry too much about the transom issue. If you want, you can fix it now before you hang the transom. Just mix up a little woodflour and epoxy, fill those spots and sand them level.

Going forward, remember, the cleaner you work the less sanding/fairing you will need to do later!!! Think about your next few steps. Once you get the hull stitched together, run really small "tack weld" fillets. Make them small enough so you can go over them with a full fillet later. Try to work wet-on -wet when you lay down your fillets and fiberglass tape on the seams. This will save you a lot of time. (don't forget to always pre-wet your wood before fillets).

Lastly, while you still have your hull panels on the ground, trace your sheer line. You will need this when you cut your wooden rubrail. The rubrail needs to follow the same sheer line as the hull panels. If you rip straight pieces for your rubrail later they will not sit flush against your hull due to the compound curves of the hull panels.

Good luck!
-Reid

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 11:07 pm**

Thanks everyone for the help so far! I made some more progress tonight. I got pieces sanded and then stitched together. There is actually a boat-shaped object in my garage right now!! Super satisfying to see it starting to come together.

First I got the bottom stitched up and put one of the side pieces on. Something about this first side piece wasn't looking right to me and as I started to stitch the second side piece, I realized I put the first one on upside down. I am so glad I noticed that mistake tonight. I pulled off that piece and got everything oriented correctly. Pictures included below.

Here's the hull bottom stitched together.

Here's the side on upside down.

Here's the final product. All pieces on correctly.

Posted: **Wed Jun 24, 2020 8:26 am**

Nice progress AggieGirl!! Your SK14 almost looks like a boat!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jun 24, 2020 10:31 pm**

Transom is attached and final stitching is in! Pictures included below.

Posted: **Thu Jun 25, 2020 1:02 am**

Dang great progress

Now you really have a boat looking thing

I dont see any gaps in a lot of your work. Might need to put some spacer Is in to get a little gap for the epoxy puddy.
I hope those who have built one like yours will chime in with firsthand knowledge.

Posted: **Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:54 pm**

AggieGirl,

Looks pretty good so far!
Like Fuzz said, you need to add some spacers between your panels. There should be spacing in between every seam. This allows the fillet to do its job and join the seams. You may have read in the plans or on the Forum that you need to avoid "Hard spots". This is when plywood touches plywood. Epoxy fillets act as a bonding agent for the panels but also acts as a shock absorber between the panels. I like to use 16 penny nails as spacers.
Also, you might want to consider adding some additional zip ties in the bow, this will help bring those panels together. IMO, you need to try and achieve a 1/8" (+ or -) gap between panels.
Lastly, apply some painters tape to the outside seams. This will stop any fillets from going through and creating more work for you when you flip the hull.

Keep up the good work!
-Reid

Posted: **Thu Jun 25, 2020 10:59 pm**

I got the bow stitched up a bit tighter tonight. Added a few more holes for zip ties. Does this look better to y'all? Can I use the painters tape trick at the bow or should I keep working to get it even closer together? Thanks for the input! Updated pictures of the bow included below.

Posted: **Fri Jun 26, 2020 2:40 pm**

I know this is not what you want to hear and it will feel like you are going backwards.

You really need to cut the ties one at a time and put spacers in. In this type of construction gaps are good. The last picture clearly shows panels that are hard against others and one is trying to ride up over the next one. You need a gap to get a seal coat of epoxy in there and then fill with epoxy. As for the gap in the bow yes you can tape over the gap and fill with epoxy puddy. It is amazing how big of a gap you can fill. Also at the bow there will be a number of glass layers so it will be plenty strong.

Posted: **Fri Jun 26, 2020 3:19 pm**

AggieGirl,

Fuzz is absolutely right! Probably not what you want to hear but you need to get spacing in between EVERY panel. You don't want any wood touching wood, you want a small gap so the fillet can do its job. I would start over, cut the zip ties, and add some spacers. I think you will see the gap the bow come together a little better. When you start to re-stitch, start tightening a little at a time, working your way from front to back. Take your time, make sure everything lines up and has some spacing. Remember, the cleaner you work in the beginning the better off you will be later in the build. It's funny how little imperfections can compound later in the build (I think almost every builder on this Forum can attest to that).

-Reid

Posted: **Sat Jun 27, 2020 10:16 am**

Yes what Fuzz and Reid say. It's no big deal and easy. Take an hour. Like Fuzz said, cut a zip, stick in a spacer (nail, popsicle stick, etc. between it and the next zip. Replace cut zip, move on to the next one, repeat process right down the panel. No problem. Then work a bit more with the bow and it'll close some more, though you could make what you have there now work.

Dougster

Posted: **Sun Jun 28, 2020 8:32 pm**

Ok, so I added spacers along the seams as everyone suggested. I ended up slipping a zip tie between the stitches to get some space between the panels. When I did this, the bow came together a lot better. Restarting and being patient was definitely a good decision.

Here are some photos of the new stitching.

Everything lined up much, much better this time.

Went ahead and added the epoxy to these seams.

Here's step one of this process. Added epoxy between the stitches.

Step two was removing the zip ties and sanding any build ups. After this, I added the epoxy to the rest of the seam. Here's a photo of that.

I am going to let that dry tonight and tomorrow I will sand and fiberglass.

Posted: **Sun Jun 28, 2020 9:07 pm**

Very good work!

Are you going to power this boat and if yes, what with?

Posted: **Sun Jun 28, 2020 10:01 pm**

It looks a lot better!

I noticed you said epoxy. Did you mix any wood flour in it?

Posted: **Sun Jun 28, 2020 11:30 pm**

I am very happy to see what you did. It will make your life much better. As said you need wood flour glue fillets to hold things together when you cut the ties. If the bow panels are under a lot of stress you may need to use some glass tape also. When you are working on the bow if there is a large gap you can fill it with wood glue and then shape it with a sander. Some of the best looking bows have been done that way.

Posted: **Sun Jun 28, 2020 11:34 pm**

Well I see I did not pay enough attention to the photos

You already have the ties removed and it is still together

Good job and it is on to the taping. It is hard to see but if the seams are rough or have low spots you can lay a small would flour fillet over them and as soon as it firms up just a little put your glass down.

Posted: **Mon Jun 29, 2020 5:31 am**

Nicely done.

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 9:31 am**

The interior seams are fiberglassed!! First thing we did was roll out the fiberglass and cut the pieces. Then we mixed the epoxy and wet all the seams. Then we rolled out the fiberglass, added extra epoxy to ensure the pieces were totally saturated, and smoothed out any bubbles or wrinkles. I checked it this morning and everything looked good. It was basically dry and I should be able to trim up the overhang after work. Here are some pictures.

The whole boat

The bow

The transom

The puzzle piece joints

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 9:38 am**

Yes, I will be powering this boat. I have not decided if I want a 6 hp or an 8 hp motor yet. If I remember correctly, the plans say 8 hp is the maximum.

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 10:29 am**

Nice work AggieGirl!!! An 8HP will make you fly!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 11:53 am**

Yes you'd fly with 8. I use a 5 hp Tohatsu propane outboard and get 12 mph on plane. That's with a good 80lbs or ore of battery and trolling motor on the nose. With another two guys in it I get just under 10 mph. I'd just go with 6hp, but then I don't care much about speed. The propane is great: no bad/old/alcohol fuel worries.

Dougster

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 11:53 am**

Looking good! Keep at it! What color are you painting it?

8 or 9.9 what's the difference?!

The Yamahas 8 and 9.9 are the same weight... Just make sure you build the heavy duty version if you go with 9.9!

Check the build notes on the transom height. The FS13 transom is 13". Not sure what the SK14 transom measures.

Make sure you attach your rubrails before pouring foam if you go down that road. There has been a few issues with foam lately that is generating varying opinions. Best to do your own research on the subject. This is all if the plans don't mandate the use of foam. The FS13 (SK14 little brother) plans mandate foam due to the thin 4mm sole.

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 1:17 pm**

Hard to tell from pictures but just wanted to mention to make sure and follow the glass schedule on the plans for all the structural parts. Your work looks good. Have you used epoxy before?

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:19 pm**

Thanks for the input on the motors, it is hard to know what I will need as my experience is very, very limited. I am taking weight into consideration for sure. The goal is to minimize the overall weight of the boat while maximizing it for the things I want to do.

I am planning on painting the boat navy blue with a white deck.

This is my first time working with epoxy. It has been a learning experience. The slow hardener really helps because I have time to think about/be deliberate with every step.

Posted: **Wed Jul 01, 2020 2:35 pm**

Stick with slow. Fast will burn you. Literally. Once your local temp is under 75 consider fast. I like fast for fairing as it allows me to get a couple rounds done fast.

Motor size is a sticky topic. Jacques provides a max HP to keep you safe. That said, he also understands the litigious nature of society and there is some margin in there.

If you search the forums he Provides very detailed response about over powering a hull. Here it is in a nutshell... the hull can take the motor and thrust forces, but the danger is in the WATER PREASURE on the hull bottom at speed. Be very careful overpowering. You do it at your own risk.

If you fill the hull with two part foam you make it stiffer (read up on that as some folks don’t like the foam). That will make it a little stronger in resisting the water preasure. Be very careful overpowering. You do it at your own risk.

Your build is looking good. Keep paying attention to the details and taking the advice of those on the forum and you’ll have a very nice little boat.

Posted: **Fri Jul 03, 2020 4:04 pm**

I am working on the frame today. How tightly should these pieces fit into the hull? I am having to apply a lot of force and flex the sides of the boat to make everything fit.

Posted: **Fri Jul 03, 2020 5:21 pm**

Many times the plywood will not touch the frames in places. The bend in the plywood is what gives the shape. The number one thing at this point is fairness. Get your panels hung and then post pictures. The guys who have built this hull will chime in and give you good advise.

Posted: **Sat Jul 04, 2020 10:56 am**

I had to press my frames in pretty hard. Eventually I realized the bottom panels were not laying flat and by pressing down vertically on the frames I could flatten them, which bowed the side panels out nicely and let the frames fit. Take your time and post pics as Fuzz said.

Dougster

Posted: **Tue Jul 14, 2020 2:38 pm**

Have you been making any more progress?

Posted: **Sat Jul 18, 2020 1:26 pm**

I've made progress since my last post. The frame is in the boat and fiberglassed. Currently working on the cleats to hold the deck. This is taking some time because I only have so many clamps. Photos included below.

Here is the frame fiberglassing.

Here is the frame fiberglassing in the front compartment. I wanted to be able to get to the entire area with one hatch opening.

Here is the beginnings of the cleats for the deck. Should be able to finish this in a few days and keeping moving forward.

Posted: **Sat Jul 18, 2020 2:33 pm**

Looks really good! I love the look of cedar!

No one ever has enough clamps when you need them and have to many when you don't need them (take up space)

Posted: **Sat Jul 18, 2020 2:45 pm**

Your work looks good. You have made great progress.

Posted: **Sun Jul 19, 2020 6:02 am**

Good job!

Posted: **Sun Jul 19, 2020 10:30 am**

Nice clean work for sure. Where is that PVC drain in the bow going? That area is all foam in mine and no place for water. My sole is completely sealed with foam underneath. Kinda like a really thick surfboard.

Dougster

Posted: **Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:34 pm**

Well I have not been very consistent with posting on here but progress is still being made on the boat! Since last post, all the cleats have been added. Along the stringers, I doubled up and put cleats on both sides. On the sides of the boat, we decided to use the dado blade so the cleats would curve easily with the boat. I think there is still plenty of surface area on those cleats for the deck to attach. The process was pretty easy once we got going. Basically it was cut the cleat, epoxy, clamp, and repeat.

This morning we started the foam but ran out before we finished. The first compartments got a lot of foam and totally overflowed. We weren't sure how much it would expand. I'll be ordering more foam this week to finish it out.

I've had lots of help so far. All my siblings have pitched in at some point which has been fun! Of course my pup Sunny (boykin spaniel) keeps me company too! Gig 'Em.

Posted: **Sat Aug 01, 2020 3:54 pm**

I like to use a hand saw that is long enough to span the stringers to cut the extra foam off. You can put the cut offs into the next compartment to help fill it.
Are you sure this is your first boat? Your glass work is really good for a first time builder

Posted: **Sat Aug 01, 2020 6:44 pm**

Mary says “Hello cousin” to Sunny. Mary refuses to get into the water or the boat. She’s a slightly broken water dog.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:12 pm**

Nice progress AggieGirl!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Aug 04, 2020 10:14 am**

Looking good, nice progress and good looking helper!

I don't know if you plan to foam the outer compartments, but consider at least clamping a temporary rub rail to the sheer to hold the shape for when you do work on the sides. At least one builder had difficulty regaining a fair line after pouring foam.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:06 pm**

Progress update: I added the rub rail based on everyone's recommendations. I did this as my extra foam was being shipped. At the front of the boat, we cut the dados again to bend the rub rail around the curves. Here are some pictures.

Next up, the other compartments have been filled with foam and cut down to the level of the stringers. The cutting turned out to be more difficult than expected but it got done.

Posted: **Mon Aug 31, 2020 11:12 pm**

We also have got the deck fitted into the boat. I brought some plotter paper home from work to make a template, then used the jig saw to cut it down. After that, it was a combination of the planer, sander, and rasp to get the perfect fit.

Here are some pictures.

I am getting close to ordering paint, probably in the next day or so. I am planning to go with a navy blue on the sides with a white deck. Anyone have recommendations about how much paint I need? Planning to use the roll and tip method for painting

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 12:51 am**

You have been busy doing some really good work. The foam and rubrail look very good. The deck fit is outstanding

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 7:11 am**

Really nice work AggieGirl!! Be sure to show the install of your hatch!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 8:37 am**

Nice work!

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 9:40 am**

Lotta work and looks great. Love the rubrail.

Dougster

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 2:45 pm**

It looks great! You are moving along quickly. I am about to glass my SK14. I'm just waiting on a few supplies that I ordered. Did you get your grab rail from Boat Builder Central?

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 3:28 pm**

Yes she did Michael!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Sep 01, 2020 3:40 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Sep 01, 2020 3:28 pm Yes she did Michael!!! Jeff

I really like the looks of it! I found a local aluminum shop that will make a custom rail for me, but I like the idea of ordering something that is tried and true. I also like that the rod holder will take a fly rod.

Posted: **Wed Sep 02, 2020 12:00 pm**

I use that same one from Bateau on my SK14 and it is rock solid.

Dougster

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:10 am**

Thanks everybody for the nice comments. The deck is sanded down and epoxied to seal it. Attaching it tonight with epoxy/wood flour mix to the stringers. Does the deck normally get a layer of fiberglass?

Jeff, I adjusted the location of the stringers to make the front hatch area smaller and unfortunately, I hugely miscalculated the size hatch I could fit there. The hatch I ordered from BBC is going to have to go on the next boat build or on my dad's boat when he starts to build one. I'm digging the boat building so a reason to build another is pretty good... I need to catch some fish and shoot some ducks off this one first though!!!

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:41 am**

Your build is going great!! Something tells me that hatch will find a good home in your family!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:58 am**

I think most or at least many of us glass the deck/sole. Guarantees against checking, guards against dings and scratches, and just feels good to me.

Dougster

Posted: **Fri Sep 04, 2020 6:27 am**

A layer of lightweight fiberglass cloth, say 6 oz., will significantly improve the durability and abrasion resistance of the deck surface without much of a weight penalty. It will also add stiffness to the deck.

If you will be fishing and hunting out of the boat I would strongly encourage you to consider covering the deck with lightweight cloth.

Posted: **Fri Sep 04, 2020 10:04 pm**

Deck is attached! Letting the fillet dry tonight and fiberglassing tomorrow. I know many builders do the fillet and fiberglass at the same time but I have had good luck doing them separately so I am sticking with it.

Here is a photo of the epoxy/wood flour on the stringers and the deck getting weighted down.

Here are photos of the fillet around the edge of the deck.

Posted: **Fri Sep 04, 2020 11:02 pm**

Looks good!

Go with what works for you! Good plan.

Posted: **Sat Sep 05, 2020 4:22 am**

With fillets that smooth a slight tough up sanding and you should be ready to go. A lot of times folks work is not that good and it takes a lot of sanding to prep for glass.

Posted: **Sat Sep 05, 2020 5:43 am**

Very nice work.

Posted: **Sat Sep 05, 2020 7:50 am**

Again, very nice work!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Sep 06, 2020 9:00 pm**

Keeping the momentum going and putting in boat work over this long weekend. Last night, I got some fiberglassing done on the deck. This morning the boat got flipped, the hull was sanded, and the seams have been epoxied. For the epoxy to the seams of the hull, I added the usual wood flour and some milled fiberglass to the mix with the intent of increasing the strength. I am really interested in how additives can be used to change the properties of the epoxy so I have been eager to add something to it.

Here are some photos. Fiberglass tape to edge of the deck.

Here is the flipped boat and work on the seams.

Posted: **Thu Sep 10, 2020 12:48 am**

Must be about time for a bunch of glassing

Posted: **Thu Sep 10, 2020 8:34 pm**

Yes, lots of glass work ahead of me. I have been working on the glassing the seams but noticed today that I have some air bubbles. Pictures below.

Is this a big deal? How have others dealt with this or can I keep moving forward?

Posted: **Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:00 pm**

Making progress!

See if you can inject some epoxy into the bubbles. You will need to drill/poke two holes on opposing sides. You inhect the epoxy in one and tge air comes out of the other. If you can't do that, then grind it off and lay a piece over the ground out hole.

Posted: **Fri Sep 11, 2020 9:05 am**

I had the same thing at similar places on my build. I went to WestMarine and purchased a package of empty syringes and followed BB Sigs suggestion below. Used a small drill bit to poke two small holes in the pockets then mixed up a small batch of epoxy, filled the syringes and just plunged in enough epoxy to squeeze out the other side. it will fill up fine. if the pockets look big, filling them is easy.

Posted: **Fri Sep 11, 2020 9:41 am**

Those seem pretty small to me. The ones I've had like that I just poked at with a box knife, church key, or what ever to see if they were hollow underneath. Then dig 'em out and patch 'em with a little piece of glass or, when really small, fair with epoxy/wood flour.

Dougster

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:06 am**

Thanks for the tips, I tried to use a syringe but the bubbles weren't big enough. Ended up following Dougster's advice and got it taken care of.

Worked on the large sheets of fiberglass on the hull yesterday. Tonight we are going to sand the hull and add the last piece of fiberglass to finish it out. We had initially planned to do it all in one go so we wouldn't have to sand between layers but that just didn't work out.

Here are some photos of layer 1.

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:08 am**

Very nice work!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 12:45 pm**

Sure is nice, clean glass work!

Dougster

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 3:04 pm**

Beautiful glass work

One thing, you might want to chamfer the sharp edges on the bottom of your rub rails.

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 5:19 pm**

Very nice!!

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:06 pm**

Thanks everybody. Looked at the boat during lunch and found a bad spot.... As I was getting towards the end last night, I needed to wet out one last section of fiberglass. I knew my epoxy was getting really hot and that I probably shouldn't use it. But I used it anyways and the fiberglass didn't get fully wetted. It looks like the epoxy became a gel and the fiberglass is dry below.

I am really concerned about this and kicking myself for not making more epoxy. I think I need to sand it off and put a patch fiberglass piece here which is going to be a nightmare to fair....

Picture included below. Advice on this would be great!

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:09 pm**

I have also been using a bubble roller to smooth out the fiberglass as I've been working. The problem is that the epoxy dries on the roller and salvaging them is hard. Do others use a bubble roller? If so, how are y'all cleaning them?

Thanks for all the help and encouragement thus far!! I am really learning a lot and enjoying this project. Gig 'em

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:16 pm**

Fuzz, I like the idea to chamfer the rubrail. I was actually thinking that edge looked really sharp as I was working on the fiberglass! How do you think I should do this? I am thinking I could do it with a plane but I'm not sure how well I would be able to do it by hand...

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 9:51 pm**

AggieGirl wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:09 pm I have also been using a bubble roller to smooth out the fiberglass as I've been working. The problem is that the epoxy dries on the roller and salvaging them is hard. Do others use a bubble roller? If so, how are y'all cleaning them? IMG-4026.jpg

Thanks for all the help and encouragement thus far!! I am really learning a lot and enjoying this project. Gig 'em

Boats looking good!

Reid told me his trick the other day and it worked great.

Some of it is my adaptation...

Use a 2 gallon paint bucket that has a lid. I poured a half gallon of denatured alcohol in and then between use on the job, leave in the bucket. I noticed that swishing it around when I put it in the bucket and before pulling it out worked to keep it clean. Before using it on the same job, shake it off for 10 - 20 seconds and it's reasy for use.

After you're done for the day, make sure to swish it good and clean then put it away. Put the lid on the bucket and it keeps the alchohol from evaporating.

Thanks Reid for the tip!

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2020 11:18 pm**

On the rubrail either a router or a hand plane would work.
Sorry to say but the bad spot needs to come off. If it is that dry it is not stuck very well. Make your patch just a little bigger and then sand off the high spots. No more than what you have it will not take much to sand it smooth. Don't beat yourself up over the boo-boo, we all make them time to time, and that is not all that bad

Better to learn on something easy to fix

Posted: **Tue Sep 15, 2020 9:09 am**

If your bubble buster has dried/set epoxy on it you can get it loose with heat, either a heat gun or a torch. Best done outside for good ventilation, get it hot and the epoxy will soften and fail.

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2020 10:19 pm**

Fiberglass patch got done last night. The deck and transom got glassed tonight. Pictures below.

Looking ahead, I will be fairing soon. What consistency should I be going for when mixing the fairing compound? Thanks everybody!

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2020 11:52 pm**

What fairing compound are you asking about? The BBC mix or something like Quickfair? If the BBC then the old master always liked to use a pretty lose mix for the first pass. Larry felt like it filled the weave better that way. The following passes need to be stiff enough to not be runny and sag on you.

Posted: **Mon Sep 21, 2020 6:51 pm**

AggieGirl wrote: ↑Mon Sep 14, 2020 7:16 pm Fuzz, I like the idea to chamfer the rubrail. I was actually thinking that edge looked really sharp as I was working on the fiberglass! How do you think I should do this? I am thinking I could do it with a plane but I'm not sure how well I would be able to do it by hand...

Id say rounding any edges (at least most) is gonna be a good idea ... Airplane make quick work - then just clean up with paper

looks great

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2020 3:49 pm**

Very nice work, i hope i can do as well on mine. I have to ask, does everyone glass the Sole like that? i see it gets a coat of epoxy resin but fiberglass too?

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2020 5:00 pm**

dillpicklepatch wrote: ↑Wed Sep 23, 2020 3:49 pm Very nice work, i hope i can do as well on mine. I have to ask, does everyone glass the Sole like that? i see it gets a coat of epoxy resin but fiberglass too?

Dill,

You may not understand this but...

I wish they would include with the plans an "as designed" list of materials and then a "Cracker Larry" list of materials! The CL was a gifted and beloved longtime forum member that built boats that were amazing and amazingly tough.

Put 4oz woven on the deck!

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2020 6:38 pm**

dillpicklepatch wrote: ↑Wed Sep 23, 2020 3:49 pm Very nice work, i hope i can do as well on mine. I have to ask, does everyone glass the Sole like that? i see it gets a coat of epoxy resin but fiberglass too?

Hey Dillpicklepatch, I saw your thread and I am excited to watch you build. If you are putting in the work to mow lawns to pay for your materials, I have no doubt that you will put in the work to build an outstanding boat.

For the sole, fiberglass is not required but I think it is a good idea to put a layer of glass on there. I am planning to fish and duck hunt out of this boat so the sole will get a lot abuse. My mindset with this build has been to overbuild rather than risking it being underbuilt.

Posted: **Thu Sep 24, 2020 12:51 pm**

OK, Great, the plan for my boat is the same, Bay fishing Texas coast, Duck hunting Texas coast. i am going to need a tough boat too. Thank you all for the reply. I am sorry to hear Cracker Larry is no longer with us. I see his post on old threads when i look through them for tips and instruction.

Posted: **Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:07 pm**

Here are some pictures of the progress. I need to do one last piece of fiberglass on the upper deck where the hatch goes and then the fairing and painting begins. Planning to begin tackling that this weekend.

Posted: **Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:12 pm**

Looks rock solid to me---you'll love using it. Good luck on the fairing. The sanding gets tedious but is well worth it. Have you decided on paint yet?

Dougster

Posted: **Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:29 pm**

AggieGirl, Really nice work!!! Jeff

Posted: **Fri Sep 25, 2020 3:17 pm**

Jeff wrote: ↑Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:29 pm AggieGirl, Really nice work!!! Jeff

2x

Posted: **Sat Sep 26, 2020 5:01 pm**

Thanks everybody! I remembered last night that I need to put a keel on the bottom... I’m not sure what dimensions (height, width, length) it should be or how many? I’ve seen some people do just one and others do multiple. I’ve also seen a variety of shapes and sizes. Any recommendations?

Posted: **Sun Sep 27, 2020 2:21 pm**

This is what Dougster did
https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.ph ... 5&start=70
Pretty sure some of the others will chime in.

Posted: **Fri Oct 23, 2020 10:17 am**

Well, haven't posted much lately but the fairing is under way. The bottom of the boat is faired and I am working on the top. First layer of fairing for the deck went on last night. Here are some pictures.

Also finally got the motor... pretty excited about this. Big time motivation to finish the build!!!!

Posted: **Fri Oct 23, 2020 11:09 am**

You'll fly with that Yamaha 9.9. Double my Tohatsu 5 and I move along an easy 12mph with a big trolling motor and battery on the nose. I have to be a little careful gunning it in a turn as I can lose my balance a bit if not paying attention. Nice progress on the fairing.

Dougster

Posted: **Fri Oct 23, 2020 12:29 pm**

Nice AggieGirl!! Great motor as well!!! Jeff

Posted: **Sun Oct 25, 2020 10:30 pm**

It seems we have another Texas lady boat builder. You must be a trend setter

Posted: **Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:51 am**

Congrats on the progress AG!

Here I am looking at these kits now... mind me asking what shipping was to Texas? (Im in NW Houston)

Posted: **Wed Oct 28, 2020 1:55 pm**

KurtActual, the cost of shipping the SK14 to a local terminal in your area is included in the price of the kit. Should you want residential shipping, there would be an additional fee from the freight company of $60-$80.00. I hope this helps!! Sorry AG for stealing your thread!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Oct 28, 2020 5:18 pm**

Thanks a ton Jeff!

Posted: **Mon Nov 02, 2020 9:34 am**

KurtActual wrote: ↑Wed Oct 28, 2020 11:51 am Congrats on the progress AG!

Here I am looking at these kits now... mind me asking what shipping was to Texas? (Im in NW Houston)

Just like Jeff said, I had the option between a local terminal and residential shipping. I decided to do the residential shipping and it was super convenient and easy!! The guys pulled up to my driveway and moved the plywood into the garage for me

Posted: **Mon Nov 02, 2020 10:05 am**

That's definitely plenty of motor! What size shaft is the Yamaha?
-reid

Posted: **Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:02 pm**

Reid wrote: ↑Mon Nov 02, 2020 10:05 am That's definitely plenty of motor! What size shaft is the Yamaha?
-reid

15" shaft

Posted: **Mon Nov 02, 2020 6:08 pm**

Here's the progress recently..

Added a piece to the transom for the motor to clamp. It is already fiberglassed, just needs to be faired.

I also got the fairing done on the deck.. I did 2 layers with the epoxy w/ BBC fairing blend and final layer was Total Fair. There is a little bit of sanding to be done on spots that were touched up. Really happy with the results.

Got the trailer this weekend. It's in the backyard, ready for a boat!

Next up, I am going to use the Cracker Larry method to put graphite on the bottom and then it's on to paint.

Posted: **Mon Nov 02, 2020 7:36 pm**

You are coming along nicely! Very clean tidy work.

Posted: **Tue Nov 03, 2020 3:06 pm**

Forgive me if I missed it, but do the plans let you decide the deck size, or was that something you modified?

Posted: **Wed Nov 04, 2020 6:05 pm**

KurtActual wrote: ↑Tue Nov 03, 2020 3:06 pm Forgive me if I missed it, but do the plans let you decide the deck size, or was that something you modified?

I modified the deck size. What I had to do was adjust the frame and placement of the stringers. I moved stringer B forward to give a longer deck. The CNC kit gives you extra length on the deck pieces so I was able to customize to the dimensions I wanted.

Not sure if that makes sense so here's a sketch of what I did. Always happy to help someone else out so hopefully this answers your question

Posted: **Wed Nov 04, 2020 11:25 pm**

Got the skegs put on tonight. Decided to go with two 1" x 1" x 6' pieces of cedar. We used CA glue to get the boards in place then added a fillet and sealed with epoxy. I didn't put any fiberglass on it, the boards weren't big enough to do any good glassing so just passed on that.

Posted: **Wed Nov 11, 2020 9:23 pm**

Finished fairing the hull and got the graphite on. We did 2 layers of the CL graphite mix and added some milled fiberglass for extra strength. (Lots of oysters in south Texas so I need all the strength I can get!!)

Pictures below.

Posted: **Wed Nov 11, 2020 9:35 pm**

Good progress, you'll be fishing it by spring.

Then again, you don't have much of a winter down there so you may be fishing it long before what we call spring up here!

G

Posted: **Thu Nov 12, 2020 5:43 am**

Nice work AggieGirl!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Nov 12, 2020 6:03 am**

Without any glass the skegs are pretty vulnerable, especially if you hit oysters. You might consider putting an aluminum shoe on them. I used a 1/8" x 1" strip. Rough up the glued side, etch it with pool acid or alcohol, and glue it down with thickened epoxy. Another CL tip...

Posted: **Thu Nov 12, 2020 9:44 am**

Thanks for sharing your mods to the plan AG.

Posted: **Thu Nov 12, 2020 10:33 am**

Looking great!

Posted: **Thu Nov 12, 2020 4:24 pm**

The bottom looks great! Are you sure this is your first boat

Posted: **Mon Nov 16, 2020 10:01 pm**

Got the primer on over the weekend and it turned out really good. 2 coats got the job done. Here's the picture.

Tried my first coat of topside paint tonight and it did not go well..... I think the paint was too thin so it didn't seem to apply well and it has some fish eyes... How do I know when I've thinned the paint enough for roll & tip? Here's a photo of coat 1.

I will be doing a 2nd coat for sure, maybe a third so I should be able to fix it up.

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 6:17 am**

What paint are you using?

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 7:01 am**

It is not uncommon for the first coat of paint to have some issues. Most of the issues are fairly easy to resolve in subsequent coatings. Generally it is better to have multiple thin coats than fewer thick coats. Thinner coats don’t cover as well and are more susceptible to issues relating to dust and other surface contaminants as well as the thinner ratio.

The solution is dependent on what type of paint you are using.

Often the problem relates to how you prepared the surface prior to painting, whether you cleaned it off or not and what was used to clean the surface. Sometimes it has to do with the paint not being adequately mixed. Thinner ratio as mentioned can also be a factor as many manufacturers recommend a thinner ratio for spraying, not for rolling and tipping.

Give us a little more info. What paint? What surface prep? A few close-up pictures of areas of concern or paint defects.

Your project is looking good and your mailing excellent progress. I’ve got no doubt that you will resolve this quickly.

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 7:06 am**

Thanks for the help! I’m using Interlux bright side paint.

To prep the surface, I sanded the primer with 320 grit. Then I vacuumed and used the air compressor to get the dust out of the boat. After that, I used a slightly damp wash cloth to wipe the boat down and remove any remaining dust particles.

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 7:43 am**

Here are some closer photos. There are a lot of places where the paint left circles of primer (I think some people have called these fish eyes in the past) and the paint seems very thin, primer showing through in a lot of places.

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 9:58 am**

I had a tough time with my top coat. I used Total Boat one part and it seemed very hard to get it thin enough to apply easily yet thick enough to cover at all. It also dried very slowly so it took a long time to get a few coats on, like literally a month. I would apply a coat, wait 4-5 days for a hard enough cure for sanding, and then sand, vacum, clean, let dry, then paint, wait, sand, vacum, clean, let dry etc. After a few coats the coverage issues went away and I suspect you'll find the same. It felt like I took off the whole first coat with sanding.

. So my point is, really, don't get discouraged, and don't be in a hurry. It'll work out if you keep at it and keep the surface prepped correctly. I ultimately stopped cleaning with solvents as I kept reading that this or that solvent could be doing more harm then good. I just used a clean, damp lint-free towel.

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 11:32 am**

I used Interlux Bright side for the topsides of my boat. I had the same circle problems on the first coat. For the second coat I wet sanded and cleaned the surface with a vacuum and a wet rag only , no solvents. I used less reducer for paint for the second and third coat and I didn’t get the circles and the paint flowed better after tipping. I used Interlux 2333N to reduce the paint.
Hope this helps, your boat is looking great.

Posted: **Tue Nov 17, 2020 11:54 am**

AggieGirl wrote: ↑Tue Nov 17, 2020 7:06 am Thanks for the help! I’m using Interlux bright side paint.

To prep the surface, I sanded the primer with 320 grit. Then I vacuumed and used the air compressor to get the dust out of the boat. After that, I used a slightly damp wash cloth to wipe the boat down and remove any remaining dust particles.

Sanding and using the Air Compressor are definitely good practices. You said you wiped off with a damp cloth, does this mean damp with water? The last thing I do before applying paint is to wipe the surface with a microfiber cloth and some Denatured Alcohol. Best to wipe down 2-3 times, using a new cloth each time. Once the surface is clean be sure not to touch it with your hands. Your hands have oils that can cause issues with the paint.

Good luck!
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Nov 18, 2020 9:04 am**

Thanks everybody.. I used a combo of all the advice and the second coat definitely turned out better!! Here's a picture.

The deck is super slick so I ordered Interlux's no slip compound for the third coat of white. Going to paint the sides over the next few days while I am waiting on the shipping. I can't believe this project is wrapping up... super excited.

Posted: **Wed Nov 18, 2020 10:02 am**

Wow, looks great! Glad its working out!

Posted: **Wed Nov 18, 2020 11:58 am**

Nice work AG!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Nov 18, 2020 12:04 pm**

Really nice finish!!! Definitely an example of how neat epoxy work and a good fairing job pays off! Can't wait to see it in the water.
-Reid

Posted: **Wed Nov 18, 2020 2:35 pm**

Looking good!

Posted: **Thu Nov 19, 2020 8:41 am**

Thanks guys! First coat of the navy blue went on the sides last night..

Posted: **Thu Nov 19, 2020 9:05 am**

Nice work AG!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Nov 19, 2020 9:21 am**

Love that navy blue with the white. Your sure getting close. Splash day will be great fun I know. I took my SK14 up river from Canyon Lake here in Texas two days ago. Fished hard for two hours, never had a bump, and it was still a great day. Fun boat.

Dougster

Posted: **Fri Nov 20, 2020 5:58 pm**

The boat went to see the game wardens this afternoon and got registered. Going to the lake tomorrow morning to give it a try!! Super excited!

I'm waiting to attach the grab rail or other accessories until we see how it rides and where I want to stand.

Looking good on the trailer with the motor

Posted: **Fri Nov 20, 2020 6:45 pm**

Make sure to have someone there taking pictures. And we will want to know all about it runs and what you think

And yes it does look good on the trailer! You have done a great job.

Posted: **Mon Nov 23, 2020 8:33 am**

Nice AG!! She looks great on the trailer!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Nov 23, 2020 1:19 pm**

Looks great! Waiting patiently for the pictures of the boat on the water....

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:07 am**

Well everybody, here are the photos on the water. We took it out yesterday afternoon when the lake was really empty... I've never launched or driven a boat before so it was good that it was empty, it was a learning experience to say the least. The boat is very sensitive to any movement of the tiller or increase in speed. Once the grab bar is mounted, I think it will be easier to handle.

Thanks for all the support, encouragement and advice along the way! Super glad I did this and even more excited to be on the water.

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:29 am**

Yes you will be much better off with a grab rail. I started to post the other day about its sensitivity to movement of the tiller and should have. I nearly fell out once and that was just with the 5 hp tohatsu! Takes a bit to get used to it--it's a sports car

I put a cooler in front of the grab rail and sit to steer. No standing for me when underway, but then I'm 71 and don't have the balance I once had. Be a little careful and have a lot of fun! ALWAYS have the kill switch on. The time I nearly fell out I had forgotten to attach it

Don't be me.

Dougster

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:40 am**

Well done AG!! Send us more photos once you get the Grab Bar on her!!! Again, great job and congratulations!!! Jeff

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:09 pm**

Absolutely awesome! That sled must be a ROCKET! Happy to see the pdf. I'd encourage you to keep a mini airhorn clipped to the pfd so if you do go in the drink you can make some noise, and maybe even keep an orange flag in the vest pocket. I do the same when sailing solo and my wife does the same when supping alone. I'll admit to an obsession with safety on the water.

Would love to see some video underway and look forward to hearing about the first fish!

Great job, really impressed.

Jeff

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 8:27 pm**

Oh Hell Yes! Awesome job! Bet she scared you! Get someone to take a video of you screaming by. Be careful...

Posted: **Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:08 pm**

Congrats on the launch! The boat looks good on the water.

Posted: **Tue Dec 01, 2020 8:39 am**

Dougster wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:29 am Yes you will be much better off with a grab rail. I started to post the other day about its sensitivity to movement of the tiller and should have. I nearly fell out once and that was just with the 5 hp tohatsu! Takes a bit to get used to it--it's a sports car I put a cooler in front of the grab rail and sit to steer. No standing for me when underway, but then I'm 71 and don't have the balance I once had. Be a little careful and have a lot of fun! ALWAYS have the kill switch on. The time I nearly fell out I had forgotten to attach it Don't be me.

Dougster

I learned my lesson about the kill switch and life vest... in the excitement and nerves of the moment, I forgot to put on both...

Luckily, I hadn't taken off yet and my dad reminded me.

Posted: **Tue Dec 01, 2020 8:40 am**

cape man wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 8:27 pm Oh Hell Yes! Awesome job! Bet she scared you! Get someone to take a video of you screaming by. Be careful...

Oh I was very scared!!! My dad said it looked like I was going to puke or pass out the whole time

Posted: **Tue Dec 01, 2020 8:46 am**

That is great AG!!!! Jeff

Posted: **Thu Dec 03, 2020 9:37 am**

Great work! You should have a lot of fun with that boat.

Posted: **Thu Dec 03, 2020 11:45 am**

Awesome Job!!! Hope you enjoy it.
-Reid

Posted: **Fri Dec 04, 2020 5:12 am**

Looks great on the water. Hope you get to enjoy your build for many years.

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:47 pm**

@AggieGirl Did you figure out where you wanted your grab rail mounted? Any more pics or videos of the splash?

Posted: **Mon Sep 06, 2021 8:18 pm**

Hello everyone, I wanted to post an update on the boat. I decided to make it my primary duck boat so we did a camo paint job this weekend. My basset hound came out to help despite the hot temps! The best part about this boat is it can fit in a parking space at my apartment.

Here are some pictures with the paint and everything I’ve added on since my last post.

: 7137E647-83CD-4B91-B2D8-331475C8DB51.jpeg (35.44 KiB) Viewed 2112 times

: 25606E86-E92A-4341-9DCD-95740BFC0A1C.jpeg (40.28 KiB) Viewed 2112 times

: 71362C21-3D07-4CB3-B364-7CC98B391203.jpeg (35.53 KiB) Viewed 2112 times

: 84BC42DF-828F-443E-8C07-D6A54C6546A9.jpeg (29.59 KiB) Viewed 2112 times

: 234B4D7A-E142-40B7-9DC0-CD6E265A8687.jpeg (34.03 KiB) Viewed 2112 times

Posted: **Mon Sep 06, 2021 10:21 pm**

Nice job!

Posted: **Tue Sep 07, 2021 12:11 am**

Boat looks great! I hope you are able to get lots of use out of it.

Posted: **Tue Sep 07, 2021 9:41 am**

Nice to see. Fun little boat for sure, I love mine!

Dougser

Posted: **Tue Sep 07, 2021 9:50 am**

Very well done!! Congratulations!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Sep 07, 2021 10:57 am**

Awesome job! How fast is it?

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