FS14 new build - South Shore MA

[Fuzz]

As long as the transom is where it belongs and will stay there when glueing I would not worry about it.

About the packing tape on the inside it would save you some sanding but that is up to you. If I had me a nice young limber helper I would give that job to him

[jacquesmm]

Tape inside: not worth it. You will be able to fill that corner after flipping the hull.
Be stingy with the putty from outside, you don't want to have big globs of putty dropping inside.

No screws in the stringers please, let the panels take their natural fair shape even if they pull away a little bit from the framing.

[VT_Jeff]

If I had me a nice young limber helper I would give that job to him

I have a semi-young semi-limber wife who did the inside taping for me, it work out nicely, the inside was really clean when I flipped. Have the same helper pull the tape off before too much timer passes, I waited till I flipped and some was hard to get off.

" Seems like extra work to attach new piece of wood to the stringer just for the purpose of screwing the transom to it? Am I missing something?"

The 1X1 blocks I used to attach my transom to the stringers made it much simpler: clamp the blocks flush to end of the stringers, drill and screw them on, then clamp the transom to the blocks, drill and screw it on. 10 minute job. Screwing directly into the stringers will be screwing into plywood endgrain which is not advisable normally.

Edit: I now realize you already have your panels stitched together without the transom on so it may be a little more work to attach the transom as I advised bit I still think it's the way to go. You can probably just slide the stitched "hull" forward and out of the way to do it.

[Nelly]

Cutting glass cloth for bottom - don’t get the plans suggestion to “use leftover on the other side”

I’ve cut the glass for the port side of the bottom, Am I supposed to use the leftover on the starboard side? Or do the mean save that glass for the inside of the hull? I don't want to run out. More detail here in the plans would have been helpful.

Bob

[jacquesmm]

That fiberglass layout looks fine.
There is no absolute rule about fiberglass cutting as long as you cover what we specify and overlap layers. In most cases, the builder will use 50" wide glass but many use 36" wide. Then some will want to cover the side all the way to the sheer.
I can't specify a fiberglass cutting scheme with so many options, it would create confusion but what you did looks fine.
Use some left overs to completely cover the transom in an out.

[Nelly]

got the keel, chines, transom corners glassed yesterday. It was hot and windy which created a challenge with epoxy. I was mixing 6oz batches at a time and on occasion it was getting very thick while wetting out the glass with the chip brushes. Eventually moved to a roller which helped us keep up with the epoxy.

Went the the beach for a couple of hours, came back and decided to glass the whole bottom while epoxy was still tacky. This was where we really started to go through the epoxy, mixing 9oz at a time.

But the on the seams and in the corners we had air bubbles develop which we just couldn't press/roll out. I guess we'll learn with how to deal with those next. Also covered with plastic sheeting but doing so at 9:00 last night in poor lighting - not sure how effective this will be in having the desired peel ply effect.

It was anything but perfect, but glad to have gotten it all done yesterday. Thanks Jacques for chiming in - we'll have to go back and glass up the rest of the transom.

[joe2700]

But the on the seams and in the corners we had air bubbles develop which we just couldn't press/roll out. I guess we'll learn with how to deal with those next. Also covered with plastic sheeting but doing so at 9:00 last night in poor lighting - not sure how effective this will be in having the desired peel ply effect.

From the pictures it looks like the corners are too sharp for 12oz biaxial or other thick fiberglass to make the bend which would cause those bubbles at the edges. I think I used a 1/2" radius but you might be able to get away with a little less. From the pictures it looks like you just broke the edge to something closer to 1/8" radius.

[Nelly]

thanks - realizing now that there wasn't enough radius. I was focused more on filling the gaps rather than creating a significantly rounded edge when welding seams with thickened epoxy.

The remedy is to grind/sand away the bubbles/air pockets and re-glass, correct? I think I'm going to have a lot to re-do. Ouch. Not going to uncover it or touch it until the Isiasis comes through here tomorrow night.

[VT_Jeff]

...on occasion it was getting very thick while wetting out the glass with the chip brushes.

My .02: pour out the mixed epoxy as soon as you're done mixing over an area roughly the size that you will spread it and it will not kick nearly as fast as if you are serving it out the of pot as you go. If you're glassing a seam, pour it along the seam and then spread it up/down with the chip brush/squeegee/roller. Leave the pot upside down on a dry area while spreading to full empty it out.

I do feel your pain though. We did the inside of my boat recently as the thermometer was rising. We went to the river, not the beach, but came back to many air bubbles that I think were caused by outgassing as the plywood heated up.

[joe2700]

My .02: pour out the mixed epoxy as soon as you're done mixing over an area roughly the size that you will spread it and it will not kick nearly as fast as if you are serving it out the of pot as you go. If you're glassing a seam, pour it along the seam and then spread it up/down with the chip brush/squeegee/roller. Leave the pot upside down on a dry area while spreading to full empty it out.

I do feel your pain though. We did the inside of my boat recently as the thermometer was rising. We went to the river, not the beach, but came back to many air bubbles that I think were caused by outgassing as the plywood heated up.

Yea I also pour the epoxy out and use a plastic spreader to move it around when glassing large areas. For glassing a seam with 6" tape I actually prefer to saturate the glass on a plastic covered workbench then roll it up, carry it to the boat, and unroll it. Can't do that if it's too hot through as too much heat would build up when rolled up.

As you say Jeff glassing bare wood with rising temps will also create bubbles. Better to do it when the temp is falling and the wood will suck the epoxy in not blow bubbles out.