LM18 Houston Tx
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Nice Eric. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Nice work!!! Jeff
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2019 2:14 pm
- Location: Texas, USA
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Dude. Apparently, it has been 8 months since I logged in. Boat is looking phenominal!
-
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 565
- Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:54 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, TX
- Location: The Woodlands, TX
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
For my PH18 I found a guy in Spring who made some custom aluminum grab bars and rod holders. Worked out great. Let me know if you'd like his contact info.ericwensel wrote: ↑Mon Jul 18, 2022 11:01 pm I am still trying to find someone to do the aluminum work.
Will
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2020 10:31 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Yes. I would like to get his contact info. I might have a motor in Spring area as well.willg wrote: ↑Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:55 pmFor my PH18 I found a guy in Spring who made some custom aluminum grab bars and rod holders. Worked out great. Let me know if you'd like his contact info.ericwensel wrote: ↑Mon Jul 18, 2022 11:01 pm I am still trying to find someone to do the aluminum work.
Will
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2020 10:31 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Finished painting. I had lots of challenges with the top deck. I first had too much dust and was not at all happy with the paint job. I sanded it smooth and then taped the area without nonskid and put down the nonskid. But i ran out of non skid material in the middle of the job. Arggg!! i was able to order some more and then finish with only a slighly visible seam were i started and stopped. I then went back and recoated the smooth areas. The second time i wet down everything in the garage with water to eliminate dust. that seemed to work as i am much happier with the result this time.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2020 10:31 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Two steps forward and one step back.
So i am getting concerned. The center console which will be on aluminum post like done in picture below.
I thought i would just screw into the deck which is backed by a 3/4 piece of solid wood which i intended to overdrill and then fill with a thickened epoxy and then screw into it.
However, over time i fear that it will begin to loosen and worse allow water to somehow get below the sealed deck.
I had a colleague who refurbishes sailboats suggest that i add a G10 doubler plate and then drill into the doubler plate. I am now thinking i might add something like this below the flange that sits on the deck using G10 1/4 sheet plus some G10 solid dowels pieces. The dowels give me more thread depth than just the 1/4" provided by the G10 sheet. I have heard that the G10 holds threads really well. I can epoxy the G10 to the deck. I will drill out the deck where the dowel pieces are and bed them in epoxy.
Thoughts.
Is there an easier but guaranteed to last solution.
So i am getting concerned. The center console which will be on aluminum post like done in picture below.
I thought i would just screw into the deck which is backed by a 3/4 piece of solid wood which i intended to overdrill and then fill with a thickened epoxy and then screw into it.
However, over time i fear that it will begin to loosen and worse allow water to somehow get below the sealed deck.
I had a colleague who refurbishes sailboats suggest that i add a G10 doubler plate and then drill into the doubler plate. I am now thinking i might add something like this below the flange that sits on the deck using G10 1/4 sheet plus some G10 solid dowels pieces. The dowels give me more thread depth than just the 1/4" provided by the G10 sheet. I have heard that the G10 holds threads really well. I can epoxy the G10 to the deck. I will drill out the deck where the dowel pieces are and bed them in epoxy.
Thoughts.
Is there an easier but guaranteed to last solution.
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
G10 does hold threads very well. Also, while its pretty miserable to cut and sand it actually taps quite easily in my experience. My console and seats are all attached by drilling and tapping 1/4-20 machine screws. I doubt you need the dowels honestly, in my testing the machine screws failed before 1/4" G10. I'd only use them if it's to prevent the screws from going through for water proofness. For that just having an epoxy filled pocket might work fine.ericwensel wrote: ↑Mon Sep 19, 2022 8:29 pm Two steps forward and one step back.
So i am getting concerned. The center console which will be on aluminum post like done in picture below.
I thought i would just screw into the deck which is backed by a 3/4 piece of solid wood which i intended to overdrill and then fill with a thickened epoxy and then screw into it.
However, over time i fear that it will begin to loosen and worse allow water to somehow get below the sealed deck.
I had a colleague who refurbishes sailboats suggest that i add a G10 doubler plate and then drill into the doubler plate. I am now thinking i might add something like this below the flange that sits on the deck using G10 1/4 sheet plus some G10 solid dowels pieces. The dowels give me more thread depth than just the 1/4" provided by the G10 sheet. I have heard that the G10 holds threads really well. I can epoxy the G10 to the deck. I will drill out the deck where the dowel pieces are and bed them in epoxy.
Thoughts.
Is there an easier but guaranteed to last solution.
If you really want to ensure no water gets below the sole you can also mount some g10 vertically and screw in from the side.
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2020 10:31 pm
- Location: Texas
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Final received the console base. Looks nice. I will mount a seat in front of the console on the base later.
Now for securing to the deck. I cut out two pieces of G10 to match the aluminum plate. I used a tile saw. It is definitely the way to cut G10. Then I drilled and tapped ten 1/4 holes to match the holes already in the console base. Then cut out holes for running controls, power, etc., matching the locations of each tubular.
Next step is to precisely locate the G10 and secure to deck using epoxy resin glue. Here is my plan. I will first remove the paint in the area under the G10 using either a wire brush or rough sand paper. Then I will locate the G10 by leaving it secured to the console base. I will leave the screws and place to ensure that it will line up after it is cured. I will put some wax on the threads of the screws before i glue it to the deck. The i will set the entire console in the desired spot gluing it down with thickened epoxy resign.
I will probably give it a shot over the next few days. If anyone has any recommended changes to my approach let me know. I definitely don't want to get this one wrong.
Now for securing to the deck. I cut out two pieces of G10 to match the aluminum plate. I used a tile saw. It is definitely the way to cut G10. Then I drilled and tapped ten 1/4 holes to match the holes already in the console base. Then cut out holes for running controls, power, etc., matching the locations of each tubular.
Next step is to precisely locate the G10 and secure to deck using epoxy resin glue. Here is my plan. I will first remove the paint in the area under the G10 using either a wire brush or rough sand paper. Then I will locate the G10 by leaving it secured to the console base. I will leave the screws and place to ensure that it will line up after it is cured. I will put some wax on the threads of the screws before i glue it to the deck. The i will set the entire console in the desired spot gluing it down with thickened epoxy resign.
I will probably give it a shot over the next few days. If anyone has any recommended changes to my approach let me know. I definitely don't want to get this one wrong.
Re: LM18 Houston Tx
Since G10 is just a fiberglass-epoxy mix you might think about epoxying the G10 to the deck. Before you do bolt the G10 to the metal plate of the console. just a thought worth 2 cents tomorrow.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 21 guests