new build GT Cruiser 23

Power Boats only. Please include the boat type in your question.
drbobopp@gmail.com
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 54
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2023 4:54 pm
Location: Opp, Alabama

Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by drbobopp@gmail.com »

Planning to build the GT-23. I built the FS-14 from a kit. And then the Phillip Bolger OldShoe, from plans of course, but using materials (plywood, epoxy, paint, etc) from BoatBuilderCentral. I built a small Glen-L sailboat 50 years ago at age 13. Have also built a coupla self-designed experimental boats of dubious quality.

I have some questions about the plans/methods. I see that Naylene built a GT-23 in 2020, using a strongback. And the GT-23 plans do call for using "a jig"....But then the plans
go on to describe a seemingly jigless stitch-and-glue process, where the initial hull construction is done with hull right-side-up, using the panel shapes and bow and aft transoms to provide the curves and shape of the hull. After adding the stringers and cross frames and sole and foredeck, the plans only then call for the boat to be rolled over, bottom up, and the bottom glassed....and still no mention of frames/molds/strongback. Dimensions of the stations are given, but no direct instruction to set the hull upon any molds... Is this supposed to be simply "understood"? That one of course always uses molds to shape the hull? But if this is so, then in this particular case the shapes/curves will already be largely fixed, because the plans call for the inside keel, chine, and transom seams to be built (epoxied) before the boat is rolled over upside down for the bottom work....
I am confused...
bobby

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

I started a new thread.

She is still working on her boat.

viewtopic.php?t=66341
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

LaChefels
Frequent Poster
Frequent Poster
Posts: 63
Joined: Fri Jul 17, 2020 2:39 pm
Location: Tarpley Texas

Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by LaChefels »

So it's been a minute since I posted a thing. Lot's of frustration removing fiberglass. Finally done with that ugly mistake.
Good news is that I'm making headway. I have a helper 2 days a week.
The seams on bow and stern transoms are refiberglassed. We did the first 23' seam today.
The meranti wood is mighty dry. So, I'm putting on a layer of epoxy to fill airpockets then lightly sanding after it's cured, cleaning with acetone, rewetting then applying the fiberglass.
I'm only 5 pieces of 23' seam fiberglass till starting on the hull.
The big wet out on the hull is what concerns me.
Hope your builds are progressing faster than mine.
Naylene

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

So, take a picture of all your seam tapes when done.

The hull does not have to terrify you.

There is a high pressure and a low pressure way to do the job.

High pressure is roll 40% of the glass weight in resin and the roll precut glass on. Finish wetout on rest of piece before gel.

Low pressure is to roll off the precut as you go, about 18" at a time...

Prep is key to both. I use lotsa sharpie words and reference marks to make sure lengths and locations are good.

Keep at it, after awhile; you'll get the hang of it.

Making good bread is harder.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

User avatar
BarraMan
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 2164
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:44 pm
Location: Australia

Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by BarraMan »

fallguy1000 wrote: Thu Apr 20, 2023 12:16 am Low pressure is to roll off the precut as you go, about 18" at a time...
Prep is key to both. I use lotsa sharpie words and reference marks to make sure lengths and locations are good.
Keep at it, after awhile; you'll get the hang of it.
Making good bread is harder.
Indeed, low pressure is the way to go! :D

I agonised over my BIG glassing runs too - before I undertook them. It was quite warm when I was doing that work and I was really worried that my epoxy would kick too quickly. My boat is 22', so similar dimensions to yours.
1) I pre-coated my panels the day before glassing. Blush was non-existent with the epoxy I used.
2) I marked up with a permanent marker pen where I wanted the glass to lie, then I dry fitted it and trimmed to fit the marked area.
3) Then I rolled up the glass cloth onto what we call a "pool noodle" - a foam tube. a piece of poly pipe would work as well.
4) I wet out about 3ft of area to be glassed and rolled about 2ft of the glass onto that, so I was always working with a wet edge..
5) Then I wet out another 3ft, rolled 2ft of glass cloth onto that and wet it out.
6) Repeat 4/5 until the job is done!
7) My wife followed behind me chasing any air bubbles that I may have left. She soon became an air bubble's worst enemy! :lol:

It used to take us about 3 hrs to complete a full length run of cloth on the boat!

Just do it!

Cheers
Lee

fallguy1000
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
* Bateau Builder - Expert *
Posts: 10198
Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 12:25 am

Re: new build GT Cruiser 23

Post by fallguy1000 »

Lee's method is lower pressure. The only downside is for multiple layers; the bonding takes a couple days and becomes secondary.

But heat is the enemy here, and he said it was warm.

Given that you've had some troubles, I'd follow his method. Just be careful which way you roll on and roll off. Lotsa sharpie marks and words are your friends..
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 10 guests