Morning Guys
Does anyone remember the thread regarding sole hatch drains and the best way to form them. Can't find it...Not sure who's build it was on.
I will need to install the pipes etc soon so could do with some help and tips on the best way to do the drain outlets.
Thanks
Les
LB26
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Re: LB26
I made three of my own in sole hatches with aquaplas or 20-26 pound density core. They are complicated to plan and build both and I am using nylon threads on one side and a barbed fitting on the other.
I can walk you through what I did, what I might change if you mean the entire system.
For access plates, I just used Beckson 6" deck plates. They are a bit above the deck, but I was going to build flush lids and fell out of love with my design which was not good.
My hatches seem to be working okay, but have not been tested with heavy rains. I notices they get dirty quickly as well, so I'd make as few as possible if I were you and focus on better storage above the sole.
If you want my plans, I'll get them for you.
I even put tape reliefs in the sole for mine. It was a shit ton of hours to build them all and fair them all. A few of the guys have purchased them from a forum member, not sure how they deal with sole thickness.
I can walk you through what I did, what I might change if you mean the entire system.
For access plates, I just used Beckson 6" deck plates. They are a bit above the deck, but I was going to build flush lids and fell out of love with my design which was not good.
My hatches seem to be working okay, but have not been tested with heavy rains. I notices they get dirty quickly as well, so I'd make as few as possible if I were you and focus on better storage above the sole.
If you want my plans, I'll get them for you.
I even put tape reliefs in the sole for mine. It was a shit ton of hours to build them all and fair them all. A few of the guys have purchased them from a forum member, not sure how they deal with sole thickness.
Re: LB26
Morning
Thanks Dan. These are the inspection hatches to the fuel tank and the waste and fresh water tanks. So 1 will be about 700 x 1000 and 1 about 700 x 700.
They need to be flush fitting as I am planning marine deck in this area.
So any sketches photos would be great.
Cheers
Les
Thanks Dan. These are the inspection hatches to the fuel tank and the waste and fresh water tanks. So 1 will be about 700 x 1000 and 1 about 700 x 700.
They need to be flush fitting as I am planning marine deck in this area.
So any sketches photos would be great.
Cheers
Les
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Re: LB26
What I did was rather complex, but has seemed to work under light rain, no hvy rain test.
First, I made some estimates about the finished deck thickness and then I relieved the deck with an electric planer or sander around the openings. The relief is for a single tape seam of 600/225. You could probably go no relief and direct water away from the hatches a bit as well, but I wanted a flush deck.
Other builders here have used a cedar post 3.5" by 3.5" for the starting stock, so I considered that conceptually a bit.
Then I determined the finished hatch thickness; the gasket thickness, and laid out the pieces.
Maintenance locker and livewell glued in place. I made the main parts long enough to go to the sides. The pink foam is livewell insulation. Drawing is upside down Top view On the bench being built. All glued with thickened resin.
Look close and you can see I've added the fiberglass to the inside of the gutter at this point Bigger locker on other side. Note it is glassed and tabbed underneath at the hullsides. Contrary to what I said earlier, I did not relieve the deck here. There were other tapes coming from all directions, so all I did was faired the entire deck up. Ot looks like I screwed the deck down when it was glued. I actually did laminate a piece of glass and a fat fillet on the back and bottom as well as the top. It was all done blind, so a bit imperfect. Any sharp edges, I ground off later.
First, I made some estimates about the finished deck thickness and then I relieved the deck with an electric planer or sander around the openings. The relief is for a single tape seam of 600/225. You could probably go no relief and direct water away from the hatches a bit as well, but I wanted a flush deck.
Other builders here have used a cedar post 3.5" by 3.5" for the starting stock, so I considered that conceptually a bit.
Then I determined the finished hatch thickness; the gasket thickness, and laid out the pieces.
Maintenance locker and livewell glued in place. I made the main parts long enough to go to the sides. The pink foam is livewell insulation. Drawing is upside down Top view On the bench being built. All glued with thickened resin.
Look close and you can see I've added the fiberglass to the inside of the gutter at this point Bigger locker on other side. Note it is glassed and tabbed underneath at the hullsides. Contrary to what I said earlier, I did not relieve the deck here. There were other tapes coming from all directions, so all I did was faired the entire deck up. Ot looks like I screwed the deck down when it was glued. I actually did laminate a piece of glass and a fat fillet on the back and bottom as well as the top. It was all done blind, so a bit imperfect. Any sharp edges, I ground off later.
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Wed Dec 21, 2022 9:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: LB26
Here are some final pics. I probably have ? 100-200 hours into these (or more than 200!); horribly time consuming Les.
Deck with in sole hatches. Look to the left, those are all the fuel tank access hatches. Lot, lot easier to cut a hole and screw the base down into bedding compound, but they are above the deck a bit. I also have two of the same style hatches with drains on the lockers to the right. The one in the middle is designed to drain off the sides, but same idea with gasketing. Because I did not do a relief on this side, I had to make a couple notched lifts of fairing compound on the bottom of the hatch lid. You can also see the drain hoses. Each hatch lid; except the livewell, has two drains and a thru hull to drain off the boat. The livewell just drains into the well, so need to keep it open, but it is massive.. There was a groove made with a custom made router and then a gasket was married on the ends with stainless rod and glued down with crazy glue. The router was made with a dremel tool and a screw set into a olastic glued into the dremel guide for a guide. Then plastic laid down and the lid set down to weigh the gasket down for crazy glue to set. All fitted, ready for paint after removing hardware. I only screwed the hinges in sealant. If they fail, I will switch to bolts.
Deck with in sole hatches. Look to the left, those are all the fuel tank access hatches. Lot, lot easier to cut a hole and screw the base down into bedding compound, but they are above the deck a bit. I also have two of the same style hatches with drains on the lockers to the right. The one in the middle is designed to drain off the sides, but same idea with gasketing. Because I did not do a relief on this side, I had to make a couple notched lifts of fairing compound on the bottom of the hatch lid. You can also see the drain hoses. Each hatch lid; except the livewell, has two drains and a thru hull to drain off the boat. The livewell just drains into the well, so need to keep it open, but it is massive.. There was a groove made with a custom made router and then a gasket was married on the ends with stainless rod and glued down with crazy glue. The router was made with a dremel tool and a screw set into a olastic glued into the dremel guide for a guide. Then plastic laid down and the lid set down to weigh the gasket down for crazy glue to set. All fitted, ready for paint after removing hardware. I only screwed the hinges in sealant. If they fail, I will switch to bolts.
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Wed Dec 21, 2022 10:14 am, edited 4 times in total.
- OrangeQuest
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Re: LB26
Those smaller hatches are very easy to install. Cut hole with saber saw, drill mounting screws over size, fill with epoxy paste, drill to screw size. Little marine sealant when installing. Because they are slightly raised, less chance of any water getting in, and the lid has an O-ring gasket. They make special tools to tighten and loosen them but easy to make a tool too. Only downside, if they are not tight, sand can get in the threads making it hard to unscrew and hard to get the sand out then. But silicone paste grease will keep that from happening and a lot easier to unscrew them.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
Re: LB26
Morning Guys
Thanks Dan / OrangeQuest
Dan those photos are perfect and I will tackle the hatches in the New Year.
A big thanks to all of you who have help me with my challenges this year, sometimes frustrating but always rewarding.
A very big Happy Christmas to you all and have a great festive holiday.
For those of you in the seriously cold weather area my thoughts are with you.
Cheers
Les
Thanks Dan / OrangeQuest
Dan those photos are perfect and I will tackle the hatches in the New Year.
A big thanks to all of you who have help me with my challenges this year, sometimes frustrating but always rewarding.
A very big Happy Christmas to you all and have a great festive holiday.
For those of you in the seriously cold weather area my thoughts are with you.
Cheers
Les
Re: LB26
Evening Guys
Back in the boat shed at last, nearly finished all the under sole / deck work. Just about to start checking everything before the deck goes down.
Oh and build the deck drains !!! thanks Dan
Here are a few photos so far, not much room left.... Exhaust now below platform
Cheers
Les
Back in the boat shed at last, nearly finished all the under sole / deck work. Just about to start checking everything before the deck goes down.
Oh and build the deck drains !!! thanks Dan
Here are a few photos so far, not much room left.... Exhaust now below platform
Cheers
Les
- OrangeQuest
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Re: LB26
Wow! That is amazing how many hoses, cables and whatever else is in the mix and everything is so neat and well placed. Very well done.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
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Re: LB26
My only comment is to make sure you have the ability to change the sani-line between the head and the tank. And perhaps the tank and the outlet, so absent access; use care clamping them or don't. You can rest them in pvc half cut tubes, but avoid clamping in any inaccessible spots.
The reason for especially the head and tank line access is waste stays in there and the lines are considered odor free for like 7years max.
I have the exact same lines and they do require changing.
Other than that; things look great. Make sure and spend xtra time staring at the work and take measurements for access points if u ever need to cut.
I was a little unhappy to discover gluing onto 12mm core did not work real well. It is petty, but what happened was I set the deck down on an angle and some of the glue pushed off the gluing surface. I even have a few voids. These ply boat builders often add cleats to widen the glue base.
And the only other issue is the spans. I used i beams in any spans over about 20". I believe I showed you those?
The reason for especially the head and tank line access is waste stays in there and the lines are considered odor free for like 7years max.
I have the exact same lines and they do require changing.
Other than that; things look great. Make sure and spend xtra time staring at the work and take measurements for access points if u ever need to cut.
I was a little unhappy to discover gluing onto 12mm core did not work real well. It is petty, but what happened was I set the deck down on an angle and some of the glue pushed off the gluing surface. I even have a few voids. These ply boat builders often add cleats to widen the glue base.
And the only other issue is the spans. I used i beams in any spans over about 20". I believe I showed you those?
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