LB26

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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Most people bring jerry cans if they are on a longer trip. I recommend you plan a place to keep one or two or four if you take a long trip by sea. These are something close and may fit in those lockers I mentioned if you build a couple spots, for a couple hundred dollars you'll have emergency fuel. You can vent the lockers overboard to keep fumes down.

20 Liter (5.2 Gallon) NATO Jerry Can for Gas, Diesel, Kerosense CAN ONLY; NO SPOUT https://a.co/d/22Dxjuf
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

The toilet...more time for some artistry Les. You are like me and don't fancy art in boat building, but it presents here.

I would consider all options; including moving it away from the steering area to the opposite side or modify things so you can have more head height. A small 6" bump up under the windscreen, or a move of the toilet to an area between stringers. These are macerator toilets and can easily pump waste up. Mine is a Raritan and is 457 high versus your stated 375. Your personal creativity here will reap high rewards.

My door is a outswing door.

The LB26 I would make the head larger and shift the hallway a bit. Hopefully you have the option still. I spent hours tweaking the settee arrangement on the Skoota, by the way.

It seems like the toilet should be so the user is facing for and aft.

ps-my toilet wastes go uphill about 18" and is a raritan; prettt fancy toilet for small boat!
Last edited by fallguy1000 on Thu Nov 17, 2022 11:14 am, edited 2 times in total.
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rick berrey
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Re: LB26

Post by rick berrey »

There are manual toilet,s with compact bowls A = 330 , there is a Raritan with a bowl that swivels , that might let you move it off your stringer . There should be a fix on stringer height and location to give you a little more room . A small round hatch bumped up a couple inches that your head fits in also might be a good option .

les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Morning

You are star Dan, I have attached a first thought as you suggested, no doubt this will change before I get to it !!!

This will give me the necessary head height and give access via a drop down panel to the control wiring plus chart and info pocket below wheel.

Regarding extra fuel storage, from day one I have planned to have a 10hp back up outboard which I will store below the U shaped aft seat along with spare fuel cans. I plan to build in a s/s plate into the bathing platform to clap the outboard to.

Once again thanks for all the feed back guys.

Cheers

Les
86899F0F-777A-4DB5-8541-4374D1621E95.jpeg

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Make sure to get the toilet in hand before doing much work. You may also need rear access to the toilet and a bit more space. This can be achieved by adding a place for the feet to rest, perhaps. Clearance is always required for hoses, but always comes at a premium in small craft design.

I am not a big fan of the toilet under the helm. I wil not lie. It would be far better to put it on the opposite side. My helm console is super busy behind it. If you insist on it, make every attempt to make the console access deeper. The problems you will encounter are steering hoses, autopilot and helm pump, and connections can be super deep. I had to spend $80 to make it so a damn cord had a 90; otherwise it needed 4" clearance for the displace and 4" clearance for the cord and I only had 6".

So, consider being rather aggressive and worry less about the aesthetics. I don't know what stage the windscreen is in, but it could also be raised still.

I would probably make the top flatter and cut down hard at the windscreen if you leave the screen. You can make a toe at the front of the raised area to keep things from falling down.

But swapping the head and the galley allows you to put all the helm stuff in a cabinet and you get all the head clearance back and the passenger side of the craft is less important; so the ceiling can be higher there.

At any decision, best to have the helm pump and toilet in before finishing in case your clearances are off..

But you are on a good track being a bit creative. Time spent now reaps high reward. Mocking up is essential to sanity.
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Edited prior post!
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fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

Some toilets can he installed in a well. So, you could make a toilet pan above the hull with some heavier core or plywood and then the toilet could drop a few inches, but getting off and on would suck a bit and you'd need to make sure it was all top mounted. Mine screws into a base from the sides and would not work that way.

But if you are playing with centimeters; it is a thought.

In the Hurricane 24, they actually have the entire foot area and toilet on the hull to give you the concept. And the door swings out and creates part of the space as it is about 4-6" wide at the top to allow the user to step down without hitting their head. Not sure you need to get so fancy as dropping to the hull, but this kind of creative thinking may help you.
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les2021
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Re: LB26

Post by les2021 »

Cheers Dan

Will try loads of mock ups and see which works best.

Quick question.... can I use a normal house fridge on my boat or is a marine fridge different ??? Every time you put marine in front of any item it seems to treble in price !!!

Cheers

Les

pee wee
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Re: LB26

Post by pee wee »

What kind of voltage do house fridges run on there?
Hank

fallguy1000
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Re: LB26

Post by fallguy1000 »

A couple of points...

Yes. You can, but...

An AC only fridge can be powered shore only and then it will condense like made while warming up and be quite a lake inside by the time a day has passed.

Or. You can put together a massive battery bank for $1000 usd and buy an inverter for about $2000 usd to run it.

Or. You can buy a cheaper AC/DC cooler fridge, like this one.

BougeRV 12 Volt Refrigerator 12V Car Fridge 30 Quart Portable Freezer Compressor Cooler Compressor Freezer,12/24V DC 110~240 Volt AC,-7℉~50℉ for Truck RV SUV

Or. You can make your own cooler with a 7 day cooler and load it with big ice blocks. I make a 100 pound ice block and it lasts quite a long time depending on ambients. But it is hard to get the hundred pounders to the boat. Water ends up in the bottom. Works well except for lugging the ice on and off. The off is either water or ice.. 12 gallons..

I have quite a bit of experience with dealing with cooling stuff.

I made many trips to Ontario fishing and had many experiences. The best overall means for bush cooling I found was a combination of an AC generator and an AC fridge and and AC freezer. During the day and the hottest times, I ran the genny. During the nite; everything gets shut off at bedtime for quiet and the sun is not baking. As long as temps are not super hot overnite...but this means you are committed to a genny and managing it.

Battery banks are also not cheap. And if one battery in a bank of 6 fails; the entire bank gets changed, so a bigger bank is exponentially more expensive.

And, the wiring to support an inverter for an AC fridge is also costly.

In my boat, I have a Dometic that runs on DC only. The engines and solar and AC on shore support the battery bank; no genny. It is a bit of a problem because the boat must be plugged in all the time, which is fine in a slip, not so in a mooring. I have a Victron inverter/charger so we can power AC devices of about 12 amps, but a serious draw on the bank.

Refrigeration requires careful consideration of typical use and needs.

For the Meditteranean, you also need to decide if you want air conditioning. If so, you WILL almost certainly need a generator, so this answers whether an AC only fridge can work. Sort of. The AC demands for climate and cooling drive generator size as well.

Lots to think about.

If you want the simplest way, a plug in cooler would be the way to go.

The electrical AC system for my boat cost $700 for the receptacles, $100 for the panel, $200 for the wiring and boxes and gfcis, $350 for the cord, $150 for the galvanic isolater. For AC offshore, inverters and battery banks are going to cost about $4000.

The Nanni diesel also likely has an alternator. This power can be tapped to charge batteries, but some care is needed and you can use a Victron Orion or Sterling dc conversion system.

There is a LOT to consider...solar will also help, but is insufficient to power a fridge; generally.

If you have more questions; feel free to ask.
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