So let's say I win the lottery and want to use NidaPlast panels for a sole. jacquesmm has stated in other threads that he likes this material for the sole. It seems to save about 36 pounds per sheet over meranti of the same thickness.
Do you use the same thickness Nidaplast as the ply that is in the plans or go thicker. I'm planning the HB16 which has basically 24" on center stringers. Would this even be appropriate to use on the HB16?
NidaPlast Panel for Sole
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
I am familiar with plascore pp with veil panels. The lowest thickness I'd use in a sole is 3/4", but inch is better. Plascore can be ordered in 5x10 sheets. Freight will kill you, but the sheets are not expensive. I don't think nida is all that bad either costwise. Just the freight is a bear these days..
Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
Just as Fallguy said. It has to be thicker. I was going to say 1", he proposes 3/4 minimum.
I have seen many soles made that way and they were always 1" or more.
I have seen many soles made that way and they were always 1" or more.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com
http://boatbuildercentral.com
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
I'm not sure what you meant by winning the lottery...most of the honeycomb products are in priced inline with standard marine fir a/b ply (usually less expensive than the same thickness), and way less expensive than okume ply. I would tend to double the thickness of the nida over the same thickness of ply. For a sole, I would tend to lean toward 1 1/2" nida for standard direct replacement...two layers of 1700 per side.
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
12mm meranti is $105 per sheet plus epoxy and fiberglass. 25mm Nidaplast is $323. These prices are from our sponsor here. I guess when you add up the cost of ply+fiberglass+epoxy+time, the total cost isn't that far apart.
The Nidaplast Panels are pre made with biax on each side over the honeycomb core. No vacuum bagging of infusion needed.
The Nidaplast Panels are pre made with biax on each side over the honeycomb core. No vacuum bagging of infusion needed.
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
Those pre-made panels are very nice and great for some uses but I would not use them for a deck. I would buy the panels with no glass, cut to fit, and then glass them as Capefisherman suggested. The cost will not be much higher than 1/2inch plywood but it will be a real nice deck.
Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
capefisherman and Fuzz why two layers of 1700 per side? I would do a layer of epoxy neet each side and then one layer of 1200 biax over 35mm on the top only. On the bottom just a neet layer of epoxy. The Nida core is already water resistant, rot resistant and chemical resistant. At 38(1.5")mm it is much stronger than 3/4" plywood with 12oz biax fiberglass on both sides. And it will probably cost less doing it this way.
You guys have me questioning why use Nida core/NidaPlast!
Tom
You guys have me questioning why use Nida core/NidaPlast!
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
Tom with just neat epoxy it would be very flimsy. It is just light weight plastic honeycomb with no structural strength. 24oz of epoxied biax "might" make things stiff enough but I feel like 34oz will get the job done with no worries. By the way even with two layers of 1708 on one side it is still pretty flexible. Flexible enough to put a fair amount of crown in a deck. Lay it down and then glass the top side and you have one nice deck.
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
The only reason for not using ply is fear of core rot. Other than that wood is still the best option for the cost to weight to longevity ratios.
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Re: NidaPlast Panel for Sole
The honeycombs are useful for weight savings...it will give you the lightest product possible. They also offer superior sound insulating properties.
You need glass on both sides for rigidity...as has already been said.
You need glass on both sides for rigidity...as has already been said.
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