Trent's FS14 LS Build

[VT_Jeff]

Trent,

You may want to ping Bamaguy0(Cameron) on this. He did his panel cutting a lot more recently than I did and he's a CAD ace as well, he may have some more useful info for you. He imported and drew the whole boat in Fusion or AutoCad and may be able to confirm the issue you're seeing. I've looked ta my old photos and notes and don't have any good record of cutting that panel that highlights that curve.

There were some old versions of the FS14LS that used the BL instead of the offset in some spots that caused some headaches but it looks to me like you have the same set I have.

I'd really like to see you get this sorted before proceeding so it won't gnaw at you through the rest of the build.

Love the mockup on the floor, btw, looks like a Stitch-n-Glue crime scene!

[Mojosmantra]

Trent,

You may want to ping Bamaguy0(Cameron) on this. He did his panel cutting a lot more recently than I did and he's a CAD ace as well, he may have some more useful info for you. He imported and drew the whole boat in Fusion or AutoCad and may be able to confirm the issue you're seeing. I've looked ta my old photos and notes and don't have any good record of cutting that panel that highlights that curve.

There were some old versions of the FS14LS that used the BL instead of the offset in some spots that caused some headaches but it looks to me like you have the same set I have.

I'd really like to see you get this sorted before proceeding so it won't gnaw at you through the rest of the build.

Love the mockup on the floor, btw, looks like a Stitch-n-Glue crime scene!

[Mojosmantra]

On a side note...Floor Frame C. The building notes indicate that it is temporary; is made from MDF or OSB; and its use in the jig is optional. However, it is included in the nesting diagrams and is clearly indicated as part of the final framing in the Construction diagram (B319/6). So, wondering what is the need for it being temporary and from a different material at the jig stage? Could I just include it from the start in Okoume - or does it need to be sacrificial at the jig stage?

[VT_Jeff]

On a side note...Floor Frame C. The building notes indicate that it is temporary; is made from MDF or OSB; and its use in the jig is optional. However, it is included in the nesting diagrams and is clearly indicated as part of the final framing in the Construction diagram (B319/6). So, wondering what is the need for it being temporary and from a different material at the jig stage? Could I just include it from the start in Okoume - or does it need to be sacrificial at the jig stage?

On the jig, it's going to be full-height: bilge to sheer, and it will be temporary, only used for shaping the hull. Once you turn the hull over, discard it, and make a new one out of marine ply per the nesting, it will only be as tall as the sole.

[seaslug]

Welcome to the group, but beware, it's an addiction, and you'll likely build more than one. I can't recall which ofmy 4 builds had tiny little errors as you've shown on the plans. I think it was on 2 of those plans, and the errors were only 1/8", just enough to show a little kink. Just disregard those and draw a fair line and you'll be fine, You'd notice any radical deviation from the plans right away, and even without correcting these little jogs it will be just fine, since with stitch and glue we can fill some pretty huge gaps if needed. I don't know what kind of fishing you do, but remember this is a small skiff, so I'd say 2 guys max, and not big Moose's either. We never put a motor on the one you saw at BBC, but I would think a 15-20 hp would work. Good luck with your build. Mike

[jacquesmm]

Panels first:

9" is correct.
We use Typical lines, the vertical lines and unless there is another dimension, the spacing is typical. In this case, one point is at the typical 12", the other 3" back.

For the other points, do not agonize over 1/8". The dimension tolerance is set at 1/8 and it is accurate enough for this building method.
There is a little hollow at the bow in each of those lines but even with that inflexion, it should be fair: compromise, it will all even out during the assembly.
I use curves of maximum third degree and most of the time with 5 vertices or less. They are mathematically fair but there is a small inflexion there.
For those who want to play with CAD, my models precision is 5 decimals of 1" but I first fair curves mathematically to a tolerance of 1/10" and then set the dimension tolerance to 1/8". You can't rebuild those panels from my dims with a greater precision than + or - 1/8.

During the assembly, with loose stitches, the panels will tend to be fair. Do not overtighten the stitches, let the panels take their natural shape.
Hundreds of FS14's were built from those dimensions and they end up fair.

[jacquesmm]

C: the mold is to throw away, the floor frame is required. There was enough wood left on the nesting to cut it from the same sheet, that's why I show it.

[Mojosmantra]

Thanks for the replies Jacques

[Mojosmantra]

Welcome to the group, but beware, it's an addiction, and you'll likely build more than one. I can't recall which ofmy 4 builds had tiny little errors as you've shown on the plans. I think it was on 2 of those plans, and the errors were only 1/8", just enough to show a little kink. Just disregard those and draw a fair line and you'll be fine, You'd notice any radical deviation from the plans right away, and even without correcting these little jogs it will be just fine, since with stitch and glue we can fill some pretty huge gaps if needed. I don't know what kind of fishing you do, but remember this is a small skiff, so I'd say 2 guys max, and not big Moose's either. We never put a motor on the one you saw at BBC, but I would think a 15-20 hp would work. Good luck with your build. Mike

Thanks Mike. I'm planning on a 20 HP. 15 will do if I come across a deal. This boat will replace the type of fishing I'm currently doing on my kayak with a trolling motor - mangrove edges surrounded by some real skinny water - places I can't get to in the bay boat. I need more range, a bit more comfort and a more stable platform to cast a net. The bones are getting old.

[Mojosmantra]

Checking in...

Got my panels cut. Doubled up the plywood so that the first set of panel cuts "traced" out the second set. Worked pretty well, except I should have been a little more aggressive with my saw depth:



Pinned the plywood corners to keep it all from shifting:



Routed the outside of panels to accept the butt splice:





Got the jig/strongback built. Used some caster "outriggers" to shim and get it all level since the floor isn't. Not sure how important that is, but it's always good to know you're working on a level surface:





Setting frames A through D and stringers:



Transom glued up and in place:



Taking some vacation time this week and will take a stab at stitching her up tomorrow morning...I gather that it's best to start from the stern. Is that correct?