Another FS17 Build Thread

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cape man
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by cape man »

Nice job on the foam and transom.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman

mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

First deck piece installed and the second one coated on the underside and getting setup for the adhesive. The good thing about using epoxy when it is 50F outside is that you have plenty of time for the epoxy to setup which is great when you are laying up the large sections of cloth or taping joints, but when you are pre-coating pieces it takes forever to transition them. And yes I have been using the slow/non-blushing hardener which does take extra time, and yes, once everything is all spread out i have been hot boxing the garage with a propane heater. I only have room to pre-coat one panel at a time before installing them on the deck, If I did this during the summer it could have been done in an afternoon.
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mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

Now that the deck is well on the way and things are rapidly moving forward I need to consider the outboard mounting arrangements. I have read several posts regarding the spacing of the bolt holes for the outboard. the height of the clamping board is barely marginal to adequately drill the lower two mounting holes, it can and has been done, but the height of the board is really not quite enough. I should have thought of this before, when I was laminating the transom but i did not. I had a similar issue with the transom of a Boston Whaler which I overcame by installing a jackplate with the two bottom holes raised by 1 1/2 inches. So for this I will install a similar jackplate with the raised lower holes. And then the jackplate would be sealed to the transom with the traditional 3m 5200 which would further stabilize the whole thing. The one question would be whether a standard 6 inch setback or the less standard 4 inch setback should be used.

TomW1
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by TomW1 »

I would go with the 4" assuming you have the standard transom cutout. This will keep you from having to move too much weight forward by hanging the motor further off the back. Ask if you want more detailed calculations.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

Thank you Tom, I will go with the 4 inch setback bracket.

mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

The whole of the deck is on. I used a lot of the gel magic adhesive for the installation, it did take a lot. And then the gaps around the edges of the deck between the deck and sides were pumped in with the brown fillet stuff.
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The area right at the bow end of the deck had a gap of about 1 inch between the deck and forward bulkhead. For this I filled it in with the brown fillet maker, partially, I will finish it and make it flush with the deck when I tape the edges. And the tapered edge of the forward deck will need some more fillet to level or smooth it out.
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mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

One layer of tape around the edges of the deck with additional brown goop applied to the joints. I am going to run cloth down the center to add a little more wear resistance and then maybe re-tab the side deck joints, again for added wear resistance to make sure nothing gets through. One slight issue is that with the cool temperatures it takes so long for the epoxy to setup and gel over, the epoxy flows off the more vertical surfaces and then pools on the flat deck. I went over the tape when I was laying it up, but it appeared to get a little by the time I finished, so I went back and rolled a little more epoxy on the tape while it was all still wet. I will need to sand out the pooled epoxy before adding on any more glass or tape. The bow area still has a bit of a divot in the joint. After it all gels up and sets up, I think I will add in some more filler to level it all off.
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mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

I have sanded the interior in preparation for laying out a layer of 12oz biax cloth. For this I divided the deck into six segments with a joint down the middle. The edge of the cloth will extend 6 to 8 inches up the side of the interior hull, just beyond the deck joint tape. Because I am doing this by myself I think the six segments installed over several days will be a little more doable. Because this is more for wear and not for strength I will not be going with overlaps, just butt joints.
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mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

Now that the deck is entirely covered with 12oz cloth it is much more rigid and solid feeling, in fact with the deck glued down the entire boat feels much more rigid as well. I am now starting to install the forward and aft deck cleats. The forward is all installed, but i ran out of clamps so the aft will get finished up later as the glue sets up. One good thing about working in a cold garage is that the epoxy has a very extended cure time. As long as you see a mistake you have plenty of time to fix it or make adjustments. I have been putting everything together in the morning when it is at or just below 50, then turning on the gas heater to cure it out. It takes longer, but when placing and wetting out the larger sections like with the deck it does make it easier.

After finishing the glassing of the deck, I ran out of epoxy again and had to re-order again.

I have a bit of left over Pennent Primer from the outside of the hull that I plan to use for the bow and stern compartments. I have read that the two part epoxy primer make a good barrier coating, for internal compartments do you really need a top coat or the "bilge coat" paint? I want to paint the interior compartments before I glue and glass the deck sections on.
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mineratt
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Re: Another FS17 Build Thread

Post by mineratt »

TomW1 wrote: Fri Dec 30, 2022 6:35 pm I would go with the 4" assuming you have the standard transom cutout. This will keep you from having to move too much weight forward by hanging the motor further off the back. Ask if you want more detailed calculations.

Tom
Tom, If you are offering, then I would love some assistance. The boat has the standard cutout. As far as weights for installed equipment, and alterations go, here it is;
  • Suzuki 50hp outboard 230lbs (on transom)
  • 4 inch setback bracket 15lbs (on transom)
  • Aluminum Ski Pylon 25 lbs (sitting on aft deck above motor well)
  • Center Console 35lbs (positioned with leading edge on Frame C)
  • 18 Gallon Fuel tank 20 lbs, empty (positioned on deck, center, in front of center console)
  • Leaning post, 35 lbs, (positioned just behind the center console),
  • Single wet cell starting battery 70 lbs (inside of center console)
  • 6hp Tohatsu outboard, 73 lbs mounted on transom (starboard side) (I am looking to put on a a lower weight 2 stroke outboard in the 45 lb range)
  • The entire space under the main deck is foam filled
  • Top of all decks are glassed
  • One extra layer of glass full length along the bottom of the hull
I am thinking about moving the center console/battery/fuel tank forward by 12 inches so that the center console will split on Frame C.

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