As my C17 project draws to a close I am looking at building a kayak or canoe to use up leftover plywood scraps. I'll have a full sheet of 4mm (gift from my supplier!) and over a sheet's worth of 6mm and 9mm offcuts.
I was planning to build a Chenoa in either 12' to 14'. I have the 12' plans and can scale. I'm not too fussed about performance of the canoe; I want to paddle it only short distances in a lake then cast or jig for trout.
I'm thinking about putting a flat keel down the center of the boat This will be a strip of plywood say 2" to 4" wide and both sides of the boat will be stitched to this rather than each other. I believe that this will increase stability at a slight performance penalty, and allow me to more easily fit a rubbing strip on the keel. It will also increase displacement slightly. The stern of the canoe will be a flat surface 4" wide in any case: I will be fitting a wheel there.
Is this going to cause any unforseen problems?
Widen a Chenoa canoe.
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Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
owt
Disagree with your assessment. Stability will decrease as the hull makes a tipping point and the angles change. The draft will be lower based on what you are saying.
So, I don't disagree about it can be done, but the modifications will result in a less stable boat.
Consider tripping chines. Why do they 'trip'? It is because there is a critical weight shift in the boat that happens at the same time the edge catches. Not the same, but similarily, your 2-4" flat keel will be subject to subtle weight shifts in the canoe. Move a bit to port and the boat will auto steer left as the first chine 'trips'. This will also cause a sense of instability.
You would be far better to plan a flat bottom canoe for the trout adventures and it gets a skeg that does not affect stability. Or, you could make a flatter bottom canoe with more width than 2-4" and use the narrower material on the sides for non-tripping chines and this would also no be unstable unless you moved very far to the edges.
Disagree with your assessment. Stability will decrease as the hull makes a tipping point and the angles change. The draft will be lower based on what you are saying.
So, I don't disagree about it can be done, but the modifications will result in a less stable boat.
Consider tripping chines. Why do they 'trip'? It is because there is a critical weight shift in the boat that happens at the same time the edge catches. Not the same, but similarily, your 2-4" flat keel will be subject to subtle weight shifts in the canoe. Move a bit to port and the boat will auto steer left as the first chine 'trips'. This will also cause a sense of instability.
You would be far better to plan a flat bottom canoe for the trout adventures and it gets a skeg that does not affect stability. Or, you could make a flatter bottom canoe with more width than 2-4" and use the narrower material on the sides for non-tripping chines and this would also no be unstable unless you moved very far to the edges.
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Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
The other problem. Let's say you make the hull flatter; so the tripping or tipping issue is less likely. It will still want to steer left or right and offer you terrible helm.
Then, let's say I am wrong. Not ideal for your feet even.
My picture may be exxagerated against the angles planned, but tracking will be difficult no matter what as the boat fights over which side is the real keel.
Then, let's say I am wrong. Not ideal for your feet even.
My picture may be exxagerated against the angles planned, but tracking will be difficult no matter what as the boat fights over which side is the real keel.
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Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
Thanks for the thoughts. I’m not married to the idea yet. I could make it smaller than 2”, just enough to glue a keel strip on flat, but hopefully not enough to affect anything else.
I spent much of last week looking at the plyak plans as well, the original ones not the stitch and glue version. The stitch and glue version is self bailing, but I’m not sure about stability. I really want to be able to stand and cast, and reenter solo if I fall out. A plastic sit on top gives me all that but I don’t want to buy one.
I spent much of last week looking at the plyak plans as well, the original ones not the stitch and glue version. The stitch and glue version is self bailing, but I’m not sure about stability. I really want to be able to stand and cast, and reenter solo if I fall out. A plastic sit on top gives me all that but I don’t want to buy one.
Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
I built the Bateau Plyak. No way I could stand in it. I've flipped it several times just getting in and out. Never rolled it once I was in though. It tracks and paddles very well but is nothing I'd consider for your desired use.
Dougster
Dougster
Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
How about building a SUP? Standable, self bailing.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
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Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
No serious fisherman wants to fish from sup.
I did years ago, caught some beam sea and dumped the rod into the abyss. Dad was mad.
The multichine bateau might be a nice trout getter.
Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
I'll see my self out, thanks.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
Hahahaha
A lot of very serious fisherman down here would like to argue about how valuable a sup is in these parts. There are actual charters for them. Much easier to get up into the grass in a sup. I’ve done it. I hate sup though. People on sup crush it here.
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Re: Widen a Chenoa canoe.
May be add 2 sheets of ply and build the more open version of the Honker 15 , if you can shoot a gun from it you should be able to fish from it .
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