Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
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Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
I am sorry you found rot but I am not surprised. There is both good news and bad here. The bad is it all has to come out. The good news is the more rotten it is the easier the work will be. No matter what you are going to need to cut the stringers back 12-18 inches or more. This will allow you to have room to tab the transom in right and will give a good look at the stringers. When you get to the bump out part I do not think it will be a problem. That can be dealt with a little later on. For now work on getting every thing removed that can come out.
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Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
Dan and I cross posted but we are both thinking the same way
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Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
You may have to lift the cap for this repair, but let's have a look at things with the engine out. Lifting the cap sucks, but can be done. You have to put some spanners in so the boat doesn't shape shift and the cap won't go back down, so keeping it on is best, but sometimes, impossoble to work around.
fyi
fyi
Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
Alright, I appreciate the help.
I am familiar with the basic transom and replacement guidelines, having read here for years. I do know I'll be cutting the glass off on the inside and removing all the transom plywood. And I know that I have to cut the stringers back as well and that will then expose what I have for structure.
Honestly, this is what I was expecting on a 40 year old boat that has been neglected the last 10 years or so. I let myself get fooled by appearances
Anyway, it will be a better boat than when it left the factory. I'm not really disappointed. I just have to keep in mind the value to some degree.
Thanks again!
I am familiar with the basic transom and replacement guidelines, having read here for years. I do know I'll be cutting the glass off on the inside and removing all the transom plywood. And I know that I have to cut the stringers back as well and that will then expose what I have for structure.
Honestly, this is what I was expecting on a 40 year old boat that has been neglected the last 10 years or so. I let myself get fooled by appearances
Anyway, it will be a better boat than when it left the factory. I'm not really disappointed. I just have to keep in mind the value to some degree.
Thanks again!
Last edited by Barry_CF on Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
I think lifting the cap on this one with the cuddy might be more difficult than most. I've considered that. It appears the liner is screwed in place all around the sides and at the transom. Then the cap is put in place. I suspect it is very heavy with the cuddy. I can cut the cap like I see typically done to gain access to the transom and the stringers. Since the sole has to be replaced anyway it will be pretty open.fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Mon Aug 22, 2022 9:26 pm You may have to lift the cap for this repair, but let's have a look at things with the engine out. Lifting the cap sucks, but can be done. You have to put some spanners in so the boat doesn't shape shift and the cap won't go back down, so keeping it on is best, but sometimes, impossoble to work around.
fyi
I'll listen very closely to what you guys say as I'm a complete novice at this stuff.
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Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
If you only take out about 3 foot of the deck until you get the transom done that will help keep things in shape. And you will have a level spot to set things on and that is a huge help. Speaking of keeping things in shape make sure you have the boat well supported before cutting lots of stuff out.
Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
Fuzz, good point. I'll do it like that, Only cut 3 foot of the deck and get the transom in place before going further.
I have the boat on the trailer, which has bunks, and a support up front for the bottom of the hull. I have to pull the trailer forward to get the motor out, but after that it can remain in place until I finish. I've been reading what I can to remind me how this is done. I *think* a bunk style trailer is pretty good, correct?
I have the boat on the trailer, which has bunks, and a support up front for the bottom of the hull. I have to pull the trailer forward to get the motor out, but after that it can remain in place until I finish. I've been reading what I can to remind me how this is done. I *think* a bunk style trailer is pretty good, correct?
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Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
A good fitting bunk trailer might do the trick. I think I would go ahead and support the hull at the outside transom edges.
Re: Sea Ray 245 Cuddy Fish (1983)
OK, progress is slow the last several days. I did get started building a gantry to pull the motor. The height is 12 ft as I will need to lift the motor 6ft from the bottom, then pull the boat out from under, and drop the motor on a sled I have not built yet. Picture is one side. I have the beam built up, a pair of 2x10's with 1/2 ply in between, all glued and screwed together. So, just another side to build and the the beam racking supports. I hope to get the motor out this weekend.
Next picture is my proposed cut lines for the cap at the transom and initial floor cutting. Eventually the whole sole gets cut out and replaced, but per the earlier suggestion I'll leave it until the transom is complete. So, on the cap, how far from the transom should I cut? How much room to tab and work do I need? You'll notice the teak will cover the cut on the topside and I'll add bolsters that will cover it on the inside, so very little of the repair will show when I'm done. Assuming the stringers are good (I know they will not be), how much do I cut those? Knowing that I will have to cut out any and all rot. But, how much to get the transom done first?
Last, whats the best guess on the epoxy and filler I need to order from BBC? I'm planning on 3 inches of plywood, so 4 sheets of 3/4. Transom width at the top is about 92 inches wide and the depth to the bottom is about 46, so nearly full sheets will be used. I don't see any point on scrimping here as I'll hang a bracket off of it with a 300hp motor. How many layers of which fiberglass product? And how much and what kind of tape to purchase? I will not make the order until I check out the stringers so that I can make a guess on material for those. I also have some epoxy and glass needs for the motor home I'm restoring so I'd like to order it all at once. Anyway I'll get the motor out before I order.
Thanks in advance as I'm probably not going to get back online until late tomorrow evening.
Next picture is my proposed cut lines for the cap at the transom and initial floor cutting. Eventually the whole sole gets cut out and replaced, but per the earlier suggestion I'll leave it until the transom is complete. So, on the cap, how far from the transom should I cut? How much room to tab and work do I need? You'll notice the teak will cover the cut on the topside and I'll add bolsters that will cover it on the inside, so very little of the repair will show when I'm done. Assuming the stringers are good (I know they will not be), how much do I cut those? Knowing that I will have to cut out any and all rot. But, how much to get the transom done first?
Last, whats the best guess on the epoxy and filler I need to order from BBC? I'm planning on 3 inches of plywood, so 4 sheets of 3/4. Transom width at the top is about 92 inches wide and the depth to the bottom is about 46, so nearly full sheets will be used. I don't see any point on scrimping here as I'll hang a bracket off of it with a 300hp motor. How many layers of which fiberglass product? And how much and what kind of tape to purchase? I will not make the order until I check out the stringers so that I can make a guess on material for those. I also have some epoxy and glass needs for the motor home I'm restoring so I'd like to order it all at once. Anyway I'll get the motor out before I order.
Thanks in advance as I'm probably not going to get back online until late tomorrow evening.
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