1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
FlounderPounder
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Alright, took the boat up to Lake George, NY over the weekend for one last trip this year. I will be removing the motor in the next few weeks then will prepare to cut into her. I am behind the time frame I originally planned on, but just modified it to do all the removal and prep work through the fall and winter and all glass work in the Spring.

I just was hoping to get a little more input from anyone else with experience with transom rebuilds prior to actually making the cut. I have 10-20 pics posted…so if anyone can lend me a little more advice before I cut it, I would greatly appreciate it!! As mentioned earlier in the thread, I currently plan to cut across the floor, maybe a few inches into where the fuel hatch is (towards the stern obviously). If anyone thinks this is a bad idea, the wrong location, or sees and easier location, PLEASE let me know before I do cut into her!!! I really appreciate any and all help you guys are willing to lend me!!

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

I'm pretty tired, but will try to contribute this week. Have not done a transom rebuild, but have the basics and 300 gallons of epoxy work behibd me.

Is there a plan for the cap?

Cutting on inside corners is always easier to fix and hide.

If you are redoing that boat, have you considered going full height at the splashwell bulkhead?

All the hatches are coming out anyway. Makes for a safer boat.

Fuzz is a good contributor.
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

I would cut as indicated. Remove it all. Try to save the hatches and gutters intact.

If you want to leave the forward bulkhead in the drawing, cut it at the top, but the back end you need to decide what you want and I recommend full up around the splashwell at a minimum or full up at the forward edge of the splashwell athwart.

Those railings look stupid to me and I like railings; just not there.

Are you fishing this boat? What do you want in the back for amenities?
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TomW1
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by TomW1 »

There is a post for Wooden Transom Replacement just above this by Bateau Tech Support that walks you step by step on how to replace a transom. While every transom is different it is fairly detailed and can be adapted to many boats. You might want to take a read through it. Tom
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

TomW1 wrote: Mon Sep 19, 2022 12:07 pm There is a post for Wooden Transom Replacement just above this by Bateau Tech Support that walks you step by step on how to replace a transom. While every transom is different it is fairly detailed and can be adapted to many boats. You might want to take a read through it. Tom
Super good advice.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by OrangeQuest »

I am assuming the outer skin of the boat stays without cutting into it at all? Just do all repairs and upgrades from the inside? Also, once in there, there will be advice on how to check the stringers for rot too.

It is hard to follow this thread if I start out lost before the cutting. Looks like a very interesting thread to follow.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

I apologize for “disappearing”…I posted my last message back in September, checked it a few times after that and for some reason it didn’t show any replies. I just checked now and saw I had numerous responses a day later. I really appreciate all the input!! Anyway, everything was put on hold due to my work. I was out of state for a month for training for a new position at work. Then the holidays…etc.

So, as it stands, the boat is pretty much in the same condition as my last post. Only change is everything is disconnected to remove the motor, which I HOPEFULLY will be doing next Saturday. After that, I have to think good and hard about where to cut. I am replacing the fuel tank, as it is original to the boat and has a minor leak (can only imagine what the bottom of the tank looks like)…so with that, I’m definitely thinking I’m going to cut where @fallguy1000 recommended as that will allow me to cut into the fuel hatch slightly to get the tank out. If I’m not mistaken, with these boats, the tank is about 3/4” longer than the hatch…great engineering?!?!

I have read through the tutorial on replacing the transom on the Grady that’s very similar to mine. My biggest concern is “where to cut”. Once I’m inside, I think I’ll be able to follow the walkthroughs others have provided pretty well.

@fallguy1000…I agree 100% with the stupid railings. They were there when I bought the boat and all they do is get in the way. 85% if the boats use is for fishing and the other 15% is for “putzing around” with wife and 7 year old son.

Anything I can do to make the back more “fishing friendly” I would LOVE to do, but not sure what that entails or how to go about that?! As for raising the splash well in the back (forgive my ignorance please!!) what do you mean by “full up and around?” Will that change the shaft length I need for the motor? Again, a lot of this is new to me…I apologize if I’m asking dumb questions??

Anyway, I plan on removing the motor this weekend, then will do a little more planning, and will probably “cut into her” sometime late Jan-Feb time frame. Ideally, I want to be ready to start glassing by late April (need to wait for temps to come up, I’m up in NJ). So, in the next 3-4 months, I need to cut her open, assess the damage, change the fuel tank, clean out all the rotten wood, and prep everything for the “repair”. Seeing as how little progress I’ve made thus far, hopefully that’s not too ambitious. But I was slowed down massively by work…which shouldn’t be much of an issue in the coming months.

Thanks again for ALL THE INPUT and again, sorry it took me so long to post again. I don’t know why I never got any emails about the messages you guys all sent, but it’s much appreciated!!

Looking forward to Finally starting this job!! Happy New Years to all and hopefully I can move this project along in ‘23

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

So, the transom itself is kept at the desired final height. If you have a 15" shaft motor, but want a 20"; you increase the transom length to 20/cos12 for a 12 degree transom or 20.5". For a 15" engine keeping 15" which is odd for offshore anythin, maybe 15.375". Check these against the existing transom height actuals now.

But the splashwell you take that up to the full height of the existing bulwark or same as existing gunwhale, etc, or you can go a bit lower to say 25".

Something like my picture. See the red lines..

But. You need to respect motor tilt clearances, so best to determine that now with motor either way.

Then the sides are either nice benches for netting fish and seats, or a baitwell.

If you use downriggers, this changes the approach so you can get bases in there and space for them.

The full height splashwell does a couple of nice things.

The most important is you won't take a broaching wave over the back. Second, if backing against the sea; you won't be filling the boat. Third, the engine noise is reduced (a nice thing!) Fourth, it just looks more finished.

But you have to do all the measurements now and decide if you can make two seats back there and/or where start battery is going, etc.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

I see that you have a 26" transom height now, so a non-issue.

But raising the inside splashwell will make the boat a lot quieter as engine noises are all blocked. The original design would have been cheaper and easier for G-W to fab and they may have justified it by saying the engine needs airflow, but these are water cooled and get plenty of air at speed.

Anyhow, size it up and see if you can make seats back there. For a downrigger plate base; I'd aim for the corners. You can make a base about 7"x7" and maybe not affect a seat backrest, but for you to determine in mockup.

Mockup using 1/2" plywood or osb or some panels, the entire thing to make comfy seats, rigger base(s), etc. if you have enough space, a rigger base can go on the splashwell inside as well..

I'm not sure why GW made the transom top so wide, but I'm guessing you can close it in just a few inches on each side for some seats. Then for fishing; you can kneel on the benches reeling or landing fish.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

After you determine engine tted up each way and a few inches clearance; you will be able to widen and make seats I think. See my blue marks. You could even take the cupholders up into the new work.
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