After seeing the Chainsaw pic, I started to think maybe FP was going to cut a hole in the bottom of the boat to get the tank to drop.
Pretty sure I'm gonna have some nightmares about removing a tank from below now.
I googled for some pics of boats with holes in the bottom; found none.
My friend and I makes jokes about keeping some midget girls onboard for these types of issues, but I now have made friends with a really friendly, very short person who is a boat surveyor in Barbados. Super guy. But even our fantasy midget helpers for hard to reach boat screws ain't gonna help with those.
What works nice, after tank is out is a carbide cutter on oscillating tool. And pretty error proof tool for boat n housework. $20 at Harbor Freight and another $20 for carbide cutters on Nozama.
1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Uh oh!! You mean I wasn’t supposed to cut it out the bottom??
Good news, I got the 2x4s out with an oscillating tool. And was able to get the small pieces left over out as well. Just have to grind the screws off coming from the other side of the stringers.
More good news, I may possibly be able to get the tank out without have to cut too much of the deck…I’m VERY close to getting it now. I think if I just shave off a little more of the lip, I’ll be able to squeeze it out.
As for the transom…with me redoing the splashwell, I modified my cut location slightly. I wanted some input before I actually cut it out. Please see the pic and let me know what you think??
Good news, I got the 2x4s out with an oscillating tool. And was able to get the small pieces left over out as well. Just have to grind the screws off coming from the other side of the stringers.
More good news, I may possibly be able to get the tank out without have to cut too much of the deck…I’m VERY close to getting it now. I think if I just shave off a little more of the lip, I’ll be able to squeeze it out.
As for the transom…with me redoing the splashwell, I modified my cut location slightly. I wanted some input before I actually cut it out. Please see the pic and let me know what you think??
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
If it were me I would get the tank out so I could check out the stringers. Depending on what you find could change the whole scope of your project.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
After seeing the Chainsaw pic, I started to think maybe FP was going to cut a hole in the bottom of the boat to get the tank to drop.
Pretty sure I'm gonna have some nightmares about removing a tank from below now.
I googled for some pics of boats with holes in the bottom; found none.
My friend and I makes jokes about keeping some midget girls onboard for these types of issues, but I now have made friends with a really friendly, very short person who is a boat surveyor in Barbados. Super guy. But even our fantasy midget helpers for hard to reach boat screws ain't gonna help with those.
What works nice, after tank is out is a carbide cutter on oscillating tool. And pretty error proof tool for boat n housework. $20 at Harbor Freight and another $20 for carbide cutters on Nozama.
The forum won't purge my last entry.
I'd try lifting the tank to see if you can cut the short sides which is way less repair.
As for the cut line, I'd still cut less versus more up on the sides. I'd also cut out the hatch gutters as solid units if you decide to keep any. Gutters are hard to fab.
Pretty sure I'm gonna have some nightmares about removing a tank from below now.
I googled for some pics of boats with holes in the bottom; found none.
My friend and I makes jokes about keeping some midget girls onboard for these types of issues, but I now have made friends with a really friendly, very short person who is a boat surveyor in Barbados. Super guy. But even our fantasy midget helpers for hard to reach boat screws ain't gonna help with those.
What works nice, after tank is out is a carbide cutter on oscillating tool. And pretty error proof tool for boat n housework. $20 at Harbor Freight and another $20 for carbide cutters on Nozama.
The forum won't purge my last entry.
I'd try lifting the tank to see if you can cut the short sides which is way less repair.
As for the cut line, I'd still cut less versus more up on the sides. I'd also cut out the hatch gutters as solid units if you decide to keep any. Gutters are hard to fab.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Fuzz; I do plan on getting the tank completely out before I cut open the back.
Fallguy; When you say, “cut less up the sides” do you mean the back portion, essentially where the “seat backs” would be? I planned on cutting it there because that’s the height I plan on making the splashwell and figured it would be easier to fab with it cut there. Do you disagree?? You guys are the experts…so I’m definitely inclined to go with your advice. As for lifting the tank, I can lift the front side of it to about 20-30 degrees up right now. It’s 100% free…just the hole is slightly too small. I should be able to get it completely out the next time I get a chance to work on it…not sure when that will be. Gotta a lot of other stuff coming up that’s going to slow me down a little..
Fallguy; When you say, “cut less up the sides” do you mean the back portion, essentially where the “seat backs” would be? I planned on cutting it there because that’s the height I plan on making the splashwell and figured it would be easier to fab with it cut there. Do you disagree?? You guys are the experts…so I’m definitely inclined to go with your advice. As for lifting the tank, I can lift the front side of it to about 20-30 degrees up right now. It’s 100% free…just the hole is slightly too small. I should be able to get it completely out the next time I get a chance to work on it…not sure when that will be. Gotta a lot of other stuff coming up that’s going to slow me down a little..
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Your marks are fine, do keep in mind whereever you mark; in order to tab back to it; you generally need a taper of 12:1. So, for 1/4" glass thickness, the grind back is 3". You can drop to 2" with epoxy.
Always focus on the repair, cutting is super ez.
I do like the splashwell going up and probably going in as well as long as you have clearances.
You'll know more once you start getting into it as to how much to cut for access. The top timber on the upper edges is probably good material and fully bonded; so might be hard to chisel out without going even higher than 2-3" away..
Always focus on the repair, cutting is super ez.
I do like the splashwell going up and probably going in as well as long as you have clearances.
You'll know more once you start getting into it as to how much to cut for access. The top timber on the upper edges is probably good material and fully bonded; so might be hard to chisel out without going even higher than 2-3" away..
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
It’s been a while since I’ve posted any updates. I was able to get the gas tank out without having to cut the boat at all…so that’s 100% removed and the new one is in process of being built (2” shorter so it fits easier going back in)
The old transom is 100% removed…just have to do a little “cleanup” work.
So, all and all, everything is moving along smoothly. Although, anyone have any suggestions on how to not wanna rip my arms off from fiberglass splinters?? Maybe a full body painters suit? I have a respirator and goggles, so my face and lungs aren’t an issue…just my arms are itchy to all hell!!! I’d take living in the attic over this shit!! Haha
The old transom was completely rotten and came out with ease!! Really don’t know how the hell the engine didn’t come off last year??
The stringers seem to be in decent shape. I have to cut them back further. I only cut them back about 3-4 inches so far. The wood is wet, but not rotten. They seem strong, so I’m hoping they are dry a few inches further back!! But we will see…
The old transom is 100% removed…just have to do a little “cleanup” work.
So, all and all, everything is moving along smoothly. Although, anyone have any suggestions on how to not wanna rip my arms off from fiberglass splinters?? Maybe a full body painters suit? I have a respirator and goggles, so my face and lungs aren’t an issue…just my arms are itchy to all hell!!! I’d take living in the attic over this shit!! Haha
The old transom was completely rotten and came out with ease!! Really don’t know how the hell the engine didn’t come off last year??
The stringers seem to be in decent shape. I have to cut them back further. I only cut them back about 3-4 inches so far. The wood is wet, but not rotten. They seem strong, so I’m hoping they are dry a few inches further back!! But we will see…
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
You don't have to be a believer, but you can be really glad you didn't hammer that boat in big seas.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Ok, now that I have everything exposed, and all the wood removed…what “prep work” needs to be done to epoxy the wood to the fiberglass?? I know I can’t do the glass yet because of the temperature, but I want to have everything as ready as possible.
If I remember correctly from others I’ve read, I need to sand/grind the glass with 80 grit. I assume I have to “clean up” the entire transom glass with the 80 grit. Is that correct? Sorry for the dumb questions…first time doing any of this and prefer to do it right the first time.
Also, I’m going to make a cardboard template of the transom to use to cut the wood, when ready. How much of a gap do I leave around the edges to fill in with the putty? About 1/2”?? More? Less?
Thanks again for the input guys!! Based on the progress I’ve made thus far, I hope to have the boat ready to hit the water by late May…maybe early June at the latest (weather cooperating)
If I remember correctly from others I’ve read, I need to sand/grind the glass with 80 grit. I assume I have to “clean up” the entire transom glass with the 80 grit. Is that correct? Sorry for the dumb questions…first time doing any of this and prefer to do it right the first time.
Also, I’m going to make a cardboard template of the transom to use to cut the wood, when ready. How much of a gap do I leave around the edges to fill in with the putty? About 1/2”?? More? Less?
Thanks again for the input guys!! Based on the progress I’ve made thus far, I hope to have the boat ready to hit the water by late May…maybe early June at the latest (weather cooperating)
Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
I don't know if you've read the tutorial here on transom replacement, but if not, here's the link:FlounderPounder wrote: ↑Tue Feb 14, 2023 9:36 pm Ok, now that I have everything exposed, and all the wood removed…what “prep work” needs to be done to epoxy the wood to the fiberglass??
If I remember correctly from others I’ve read, I need to sand/grind the glass with 80 grit. I assume I have to “clean up” the entire transom glass with the 80 grit. Is that correct? Sorry for the dumb questions…first time doing any of this and prefer to do it right the first time.
Also, I’m going to make a cardboard template of the transom to use to cut the wood, when ready. How much of a gap do I leave around the edges to fill in with the putty? About 1/2”?? More? Less?
https://boatbuildercentral.com/support- ... how-to.pdf
A quick scan didn't come up with the answer to your question on what grit to sand the glass with to prep for the next step, though.
Hank
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