1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

[FlounderPounder]

Looks pretty good.

Not sure how the knees got into the structure exactly, but keep in mind the transom is how all the loads are transferred to the hull, so you want that all tied well and able to keep the transom from deflection on top.

If you have any laminating voids they can be double hole drilled and snub nose injected with 5/10 cc syringes.

All the best. Dan

Im pretty confident the knees are quite secure. Is there something in the pictures that make you think otherwise?? They are very securely tapered into the stringers, then have 3 layers of 17oz attaching them to the transom. Plus, the “floor areas” inside the transom where the battery and oil tank go are then glasses onto the stingers and onto the transom with 2 layers of 17oz.

I’m quite new to this, but that seems secure to me. Do you think that’s not strong enough?

Thanks Dan…

Matt

[fallguy1000]

Looks pretty good.

Not sure how the knees got into the structure exactly, but keep in mind the transom is how all the loads are transferred to the hull, so you want that all tied well and able to keep the transom from deflection on top.

If you have any laminating voids they can be double hole drilled and snub nose injected with 5/10 cc syringes.

All the best. Dan

Im pretty confident the knees are quite secure. Is there something in the pictures that make you think otherwise?? They are very securely tapered into the stringers, then have 3 layers of 17oz attaching them to the transom. Plus, the “floor areas” inside the transom where the battery and oil tank go are then glasses onto the stingers and onto the transom with 2 layers of 17oz.

I’m quite new to this, but that seems secure to me. Do you think that’s not strong enough?

Thanks Dan…

Matt

I just lost track of the tops of the knees somehow.

[FlounderPounder]

Ah, that makes sense. I can see how they would lack a lot of strength without the tops on them. Seems like the tops add 3-5times the amount of “contact area” with the transom.

Thanks for the tips!! Please feel free to “critique” the work in anyway, or offer any type of constructive criticism. This has taken me far longer than I ever planned, but that’s only because I’m trying to do everything right so I don’t have to worry about it down the road.

[fallguy1000]

I am wondering about the splashwell as well. Typically, we'd see an angle in it so water filling it exits quickly. But this view looks flat.. well, the forward esge depth looks like 12" and the aft 6"...so would have expected both to be more like 6"is all..

[FlounderPounder]

I am wondering about the splashwell as well. Typically, we'd see an angle in it so water filling it exits quickly. But this view looks flat.. well, the forward esge depth looks like 12" and the aft 6"...so would have expected both to be more like 6"is all..

If you talking about the floor of the splashwell, then it’s just an illusion in the pictures. The floor is sloped down backwards at about 15 degrees. Here’s a picture of a scrap piece of wood, and you can see the floor is at about 90 degrees to the transom and the transom is on about a 15 degree angle.

Is that what you’re referring to?

[fallguy1000]

Yup. I'm a bit nervous about that hole in there as well..leak wise is all, but glad you angled the well. It is an illusion that it looks flat.

[FlounderPounder]

Yup. I'm a bit nervous about that hole in there as well..leak wise is all, but glad you angled the well. It is an illusion that it looks flat.

The hole is going to be covered by an access hatch. It’s not going to be left open like that. I’m sure it will probably leak a little, but even if it does, it’s just leaking into the bilge, at which point the pump will pump out any water. I don’t keep it in a slip, it’s only in the water when I’m actively using it