1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Thanks…it’s still a little tacky this morning so I’ll do the glass today…
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Epoxy reallly needs 60F to cure. You can apply wet on wet, but if you don't hit 60; the cure will retard until it gets warmed enough. The reaction requires heat.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
The glue was pretty much completely hardened this morning. I ended up hitting everything with 40 grit. Moved it into my garage and glassed it. I’m using fast hardener right now, which, based on the “cure time table” should cure at lower temps…but I take that with a grain of salt, especially if you’re telling me different. Anyway…today is around 55, and I did all the glass work in my garage with a heater turned on. It’s currently about 68-72 degrees in there now and I’ll leave the heat on over night to let everything cure. The bond seems solid, I guess only time will tell at this point, but I’m not overly worried, as it seems solid.
Thanks for the input guys…
So, since I’m going to be using slow hardener when I do the transom…I should definitely wait until I get a stretch of a few days of 60+ temps to be on the safe side?
Thanks for the input guys…
So, since I’m going to be using slow hardener when I do the transom…I should definitely wait until I get a stretch of a few days of 60+ temps to be on the safe side?
- cape man
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Or heat the space.
The world always seems brighter when you've just made something that wasn't there before - Neil Gaiman
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Slow hardener would be better at 70+ degs for 24 hours so wood and epoxy reach that temp.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
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A. A. Milne
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
The one way to know if you get enough cure is whether it corns when you sand, but that doesn't mean you can paint, etc.
You can do epoxy work and it'll cure when temps increase, but you want about 5-7 days of 70F before you paint or at least 3 days..
And if it won't sand; you need heat..
You can do epoxy work and it'll cure when temps increase, but you want about 5-7 days of 70F before you paint or at least 3 days..
And if it won't sand; you need heat..
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Thanks FallGuy. I don’t need to paint it at all…it’s only the “face down” part of the fuel hatch. And it will be in my garage for quite a while…so even if it’s not fully cured, it will definitely be by the time I’m ready to install it back in the boat.
Im actually glad I decided to do that before the transom. It gave me a good idea of how much resin I will need for different size and weights of glass. I know you guys told me how difficult it is to wet out 1708, but now I truly understand. It’s one thing to do it while the work space is laying flat…I can only imagine how much harder it would be to use vertical on the transom. I really might use 17oz instead on the transom after seeing how much it takes to wet that stuff out…and to get all the air pockets out of that stuff!!
Im actually glad I decided to do that before the transom. It gave me a good idea of how much resin I will need for different size and weights of glass. I know you guys told me how difficult it is to wet out 1708, but now I truly understand. It’s one thing to do it while the work space is laying flat…I can only imagine how much harder it would be to use vertical on the transom. I really might use 17oz instead on the transom after seeing how much it takes to wet that stuff out…and to get all the air pockets out of that stuff!!
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
1708 has a place
If you need thickness build, then it beats 1700.
It also works better when moving the wetted glass to a difficult location or moving wetted glass, in general.
For a transom, 1700 is my preference, but you must precut the glass and you must wet roll the substrate because db1700 will not wet down well from above..
If you need thickness build, then it beats 1700.
It also works better when moving the wetted glass to a difficult location or moving wetted glass, in general.
For a transom, 1700 is my preference, but you must precut the glass and you must wet roll the substrate because db1700 will not wet down well from above..
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
Got it…thanks for the tips. That will all definitely come in handy!! I’ll plan on using the 17oz for the transom and using the 1708 for the splashwell…since I’ll have more room to work on that stuff.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild
FallGuy; my prep work is about 95% done. Just have to do a little more grinding. All 3 pieces are cut out and cut in half (staggered at 3 different spots). So I’m just about ready to start glueing down the wood. Just wanted to ask you a quick question if you don’t mind…
I know you told me to go with 1/16” and 1/8” of glue, but that seems pretty light to me. You’re the one with the experience, so I’m going to go with whatever you say…just wanted to make sure it’s correct before I do it. I have a few West Systems spreaders….and the notch cutouts on that are 1/8”, 3/16” and 1/4”. I did order a V-notch 1/16” trowel…but that seems really thin to me. You think 1/16” and 1/8” will be enough?? If you say so, then that’s what I’m going with, it just seems like 1/8” and 1/8” would be more what I need. Again, I defer to the experts…just wanted to make sure you typed it out correctly a month ago??
If I remember correctly, without looking back, I believe you said 1/8” on the existing glass, then 1/16” on the ply (pre wet out of course…1-2 hours prior). Then I need to clamp it all along the top with clamps, and use screws/bolts around the middle, bottom, and outside edges. How tight do I make everything?? If I remember from reading other posts and the tutorial, I want it to just “start to squeeze out” the sides…then stop with the pressure. Correct?
Again, all help is greatly appreciated!!! There’s no doubt in my mind, I’d be paying several thousand dollars to have someone else do this if it weren’t for this website and all your guys expertise!!
I know you told me to go with 1/16” and 1/8” of glue, but that seems pretty light to me. You’re the one with the experience, so I’m going to go with whatever you say…just wanted to make sure it’s correct before I do it. I have a few West Systems spreaders….and the notch cutouts on that are 1/8”, 3/16” and 1/4”. I did order a V-notch 1/16” trowel…but that seems really thin to me. You think 1/16” and 1/8” will be enough?? If you say so, then that’s what I’m going with, it just seems like 1/8” and 1/8” would be more what I need. Again, I defer to the experts…just wanted to make sure you typed it out correctly a month ago??
If I remember correctly, without looking back, I believe you said 1/8” on the existing glass, then 1/16” on the ply (pre wet out of course…1-2 hours prior). Then I need to clamp it all along the top with clamps, and use screws/bolts around the middle, bottom, and outside edges. How tight do I make everything?? If I remember from reading other posts and the tutorial, I want it to just “start to squeeze out” the sides…then stop with the pressure. Correct?
Again, all help is greatly appreciated!!! There’s no doubt in my mind, I’d be paying several thousand dollars to have someone else do this if it weren’t for this website and all your guys expertise!!
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