This is a good "from the back" replacement. I know you said that wasn't your preference, but unless you are completely paralyzed by competing options, you're not properly in the spirit of boat-building.
One thing I like about the 'from the back" option is that you're on your knees/bent over far less, which is a big win for me and my absolutely useless knees/back.
Are the stringers solid? Is the sole of that boat wood-cored and if so, is that solid?
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 1:54 pm
This is a good "from the back" replacement. I know you said that wasn't your preference, but unless you are completely paralyzed by competing options, you're not properly in the spirit of boat-building.
One thing I like about the 'from the back" option is that you're on your knees/bent over far less, which is a big win for me and my absolutely useless knees/back.
Are the stringers solid? Is the sole of that boat wood-cored and if so, is that solid?
I am tempted to agree, but the inside layout sucks, so I'd be going from the inside.
The issue with from the back is guys usually cut too close to the hull edges, making structural tabbing cosmetic.
The sole seems solid. There’s no soft spots or mushiness anywhere on the floor. The stringers…I don’t know?? My understanding is that old Grady’s with bad transoms tend to have some rot at the back of the stringers…but I don’t know for sure.
I have 3 reasons for going from the inside;
1: I have to cut some of the floor to get the leaking fuel tank out…Grady made the fuel tank 1” longer than the fuel hatch. So there’s no way to get it out without cutting the deck.
2: I plan on keeping this boat for many, many years and want it to be 100% solid and done right…and “my understanding” is that you have to go from the inside to do that properly.
3: As fallguy pointed out to me, and I agree…I’m not at all a fan of the layout in the back. I would love to build up the splashwell as he suggested. Is that beyond my abilities?? I honestly don’t know…but I’m 90% sure I’ll be able to get it done.
I would LOVE to go from the outside and make this job a lot quicker and easier…but then I STILL have to cut “some” of the deck to get the fuel tank out anyway. Obviously, cutting a small portion to get the fuel tank out is A LOT easier to repair than doing the whole job from the inside, but it was this site that led me to believe you should never do the transom from the outside because you can’t properly secure the transom to the stringers that way.
Going from the inside will allow you to maintain the integrity of the transom glass.
Once you get it gutted and the transom prelaminated from the inside, re configuring the inside will be a snap. Plywood and 12oz glass will be more than sufficient. Mocking it up with cardboard a few times will help you optimize the rebuild.
Unlike FG, I don't hate the current configuration, although agree it could be improved. The layout at the back of my C19 was inspired by a few Gradys and a Nautic-Star, which I believe share some DNA.
It's easy for me to say because I am not holding the sawz-all, but if you leave the hull skin in tact, there isn't much you won't be able to put back together.
I’m about 99% sure I’m going from the inside. It will make the fuel tank replacement a lot quicker and it will allow me to change the back a little. I do like the cut that fallguy suggested…but might modify it slightly.
Without having it cut open, but just looking at the transom through the hatches and access panels, I’m almost positive the transom wood definitely goes all the way up the two corners. That said, I was thinking about this cut line (see pictures)
The first picture would be one cut where the red line is. Basically the same as fallguys line, but just up the two sides about 80% of the way to get access to the wood up there.
The second picture would be adding 1 more cut (at the blue OR orange line) and that would be to cut the LARGE piece in half to be able to get it out easier.
How does that look to you guys? As mentioned, as long as my buddy doesn’t flake on me this weekend with the roust a bout to pull the motor, I plan to make the cut shortly after the motor is off. That way I can get the fuel tank out and get precise measurements for the manufacturer and get them to start making the replacement and I’ll be able to start getting the transom out and all cleaned up ready for the new one.
On another note; what type of wood do I use for the transom? Is there any specific wood, or is it just basic “marine grade plywood?” As for the glass, resin, and all that stuff…I’ll be getting that from boatbuilder, but for the wood…if I’m not mistaken, it’s very expensive to ship?? From what I’ve read on this site, I can’t get it from a box store, so hopefully I can find a lumber supplier that has the correct stuff?? I’m about 5 miles from the Ocean, so there’s a TON of marinas and boat repair places very nearby, maybe one of them can point me in the right direction? Unless someone knows of where to get the ply in the NJ area? I’m guessing I’m going to need 3 or 4 sheets of 3/4” ply to do the transom and build up the splashwell. Or maybe 2 sheets of 3/4” and 2 sheets 1/2” (for the splashwell).
Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Tue Jan 03, 2023 4:14 pm
if you leave the hull skin in tact, there isn't much you won't be able to put back together.
There is def some wisdom to this.
One other thought: I saw a video series where some guys cut the cap off the transom, excavated the wood with a 1.5 or 2 inch drill bit, and then filled the cavity with some type of slurry. Not recommending it but if you're gonna do a major transom job, you probably want to be aware of any/all options. I'll see if I can find that video.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
If you go from the outside, say you leave 6" and grind a taper. All that 6" needs to be hogged out. If the transom is only partly rotted, that last few inches can be a nightmare and before you know it; you are cutting to 5,4,3,2" and leaving very little for the exterior glass to bond to on the hull. Most of the force on a transom is forward, but not all.
But that back section doesn't look nice to me at all. The engine bay? railings are too low to lean on. The lockers are too narrow to sit on and looks to low. Even the one nice amenity if the baitwell requires major bending over.
Modified, the locker doors can be facing out, with a seat cushion, baitwell location needs some tweaking or raising it up and pushing it forward and adding rod holders, downrigger bases to aft corners. I would hate that for most of the fishing I do..netting fish as is you'd be tempted to net off the stern which is bad cuz the engine is there.
The bottom of a pushed forward baitwell could even be a kill box with some creativity...all depends on fishing style..
From what I have red those boats are well known for having rotted transoms AND stringers. With all the stuff tied into the transom I could se the temptation to go from the outside but if you find bad stringers you will have to cut everything apart to fix them so going from the outside gained you nothing. I think you are planning on cutting the deck to pull the fuel tank. If that is the case you might think about doing that first and that will let you get a good look at the stringers. After that you can chose how you want to go. No matter if it were me I would go from the inside if for no other reason than that is the only way I have done it before.
Popular opinion in boat repair circles is to use coosa for the transom. Very expensive, but will never rot.
AC Fir plywood is at the bottom of the list of acceptable materials to use which should be available from a building supply house, and maybe even an orange or blue home center. Epoxy, and multiple layers of 12oz biax from BBC would be fine. Pure guess, 2 sheets for the transom, and 2-3 sheets for the seat box rebuild.
Also a guess, but would estimate 10-15 gallons of epoxy necessary to do the lamination of 2 layers of 3/4”plywood and then to lay the glass.
The guys at BBC should be able to help you decipher differences between what types of fillers and thickeners to use for lamination and fairing.
Leaving the skin on the outside will save you layers of glass, gallons of epoxy, and innumerable hours of sanding and fairing.
Well, my buddy came through for me…and a day early. The motor is off!! Good news…the transom looks to be quite rotted and should be easy to clean out. The bad news; I could have easily sunk that boat with how bad that transom is. In fact, those aluminum sheets the idiot before me put on May have been the only thing that held that transom together.
In the next week or so, I plan to start cutting her open. Any day that is nice, as far as weather goes, I’ll do some work.
I found a wood supplier about an hour from my house. They have 18mm Okoume 4x8 for $265…seems steep, but I don’t have to pay for shipping. They also have 12mm marine fir for $150. Question…is it stronger to use 3 pieces of 12mm fir instead of 2 pieces of 18mm Okoume?? I’m guessing the Okoume is stronger and more durable to the water, and the $90 I would save by getting the Fir would be wasted away in extra fiberglass and resin??
So, I’m thinking of doing the transom with 2 pieces of the 18mm okoume and then use 12mm fir for the splashwell redesign. I imagine 2 pieces of the 12mm fir should be plenty to do the splash well…I think I’m going to keep it pretty simple; basically just raise up the sides, bring it in on an angle to enlarge the seats, and remove the bait well all together. I NEVER use the thing anyway. Or possible relocate the bait well to under the port seat and move the oil tank to the center…about where the bait well is currently, with a access panel cutout in the front facing wall of the splashwell. I think it may be easier to imagine the design once the current configuration is removed and I see what I have to work with.