1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

FlounderPounder wrote: Thu Mar 23, 2023 9:14 am I found some online…should arrive by the weekend. I think it’s called PR88 or something like that. And it’s basically just what you said, a water soluble “barrier cream”. They state that it protects against a bunch of stuff, including epoxy resin and fiberglass. So hopefully that helps?!?
For fiberglass itch...I get it, too.

1. Throw away all clothing after any major grinding event. We all have old stuff we can pitch.

2. Only wear long sleeves. Yes. I only wear long sleeves.

3, Wash all boat clothes separately.

4. Finally, the thing you need. Use masking tape or lint rollers to clean your hands after washing with cold water and drying. This really works! Especially, glass bits get into finger webs. And the tape picks it off well dried hands. You can actually see the glass fibers in good light.

5. Never use acetone on hands. The soluble epoxy will get into skin. Vinegar only on the body as much as humanly possible.

6. Use more tape on hands. I had a few desperate nights going crazy with itch and the tape really works. It is just amazing how the ground glass does not wash off, but embeds in the pores.
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

By the way, the stuff is in your socks. I was almost as happy the day I launched the boat as I threw away ALL my socks. I told my wife to get me 18 pair of new socks and she thought I was nuts.

You can use the lint rollers or tapes on ankles, but the crap is embedded into your socks and you need to shitcan them when they bother you.

Dan
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pee wee
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by pee wee »

I guess they dropped this product from their line, but it sure was effective, not greasy at all:


Image
Hank

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by pee wee »

This stuff looks about the same:

Image
Hank

FlounderPounder
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Thanks for all the tips!! I think a lot of that will be extremely helpful. I do see how much the glass just sticks to ALL clothing and have been just throwing stuff away. I made the mistake of not doing so in the beginning, but quickly realized the clothes were garbage after grinding any glass.

Thank very much for the tip on acetone, because that’s exactly what I was using to clean any resin off my hands. I’ll be sure to not use that anymore.

I have read about using tape, and I’m going to give that a try!! The lotion I got is a little greasy, but I’ll take that over the painful, itchy hands!! I got a jar of PR88 (see pic below). Seemed to work well the first time I used it!!

Hopefully, with everything you guys have told me and having the bulk of the glass grinding done…I should be able to minimize the itch.


To update on my progress;

My fuel hatch is 100% done. Photo below shows it at 90% done, but it is 100% done now.

The transom; I was able to get the first layer of ply glued in. Hopefully I can get the other 2 layers of ply glued in by next weekend, then start glassing over them.

Question on glassing the transom; Do I “tape” the edges first?? Or just start laying the full sheets of glass? And when I do the full sheets, do I start with the longest and finish with the shortest?? Or the other way around?

One more glass question; when using 1708, does it matter what direction the matte faces?? Or will it not make a difference? Common sense to me (which doesn’t mean much), would say to place the matte down, then wet the woven side. I would think wetting the matte side would start to pull the matte apart??

Thanks again for everything guys!! Here’s a few pics of the progress I’ve made since my last update;
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TomW1
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by TomW1 »

Tape the corners first then glue all the plywood in. Then all of the fiberglass overlapping the sides, making each a little longer. Why are you using 1708 mat has little strength and is used to build up thickness, it is also hard to handle and wet out. You would be better off adding another layer of plywood. and going with straight 17 oz Fg or adding a layer of 12oz Fg for the mat. Of course, if that is all you have use it.

Tom
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

You don't need to tape anything. The glass that is on the transom can/ought wrap the sides, bottom, and top. This is harder to do, but best. Longest pieces first, 8" xtra for first piece; each following piece an inch or so shorter.

For all db glass and 1708; you need about 40%
Of the glass weight in resin rolled on before placing the glass.

Use sharpie markers for references on boat and glass.

In the inside corners, only roll into the corner to avoid creating air. Outside corners opposite.

The top needs good radiuses to wrap and must be wrapped or will split.

As for glass, I'd use db1700, but you can use 1708 if you have it for 8 ounce per yard weight penalty.
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Ask more questions if needed; it is late and I'm tired, but glad to help.

Longest first is to avoid air pockets at overlaps and to avoid sand through.

There is no shingle effect in glass strength; it is all in bond quality and thickness.
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FlounderPounder
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

So I got the 3rd and final piece of plywood glued in today for a total of 1.5”. Once that is done setting, I plan to start glassing the transom next week after my son goes back to school after Easter break. I have a few questions for you guys if you don’t mind me asking;

1: I pretty sure I know the answer to this, but just want to make sure; I have to install and glass the stringers into the transom wood BEFORE I glass over the transom, correct?

2: Once all the stringers are in and glassed, next is the transom. I know I need a fillet around the perimeter of the transom, my question is; after the fillet, do I use tape over the fillet first, then the full sheets of glass?? Or lay the full sheets of glass directly over the fillets?

3: For the glass, I know you guys recommended using 17oz, but I only have enough 17oz for 2 layers. Would I be better off doing 2 layers of 17oz and 1-2 layers of 13oz? Or 2 layers of 17oz and 1 layer of 1708? What weight will be easier to do the splashwell with?? 1708 or 13oz? Because that will probably make my mind up about the transom glass. I should have bought less 1708 and more 17oz…trying to get this all done without placing another order, but I doubt that will happen.

I will have to place another order anyway for some fairing putty and some paint and/or gelcoat so I can always just get more of the “correct” weight glass when I place that order.

Thanks again for all the tips guys!! And hope you all had a great Easter!!

Matt

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by TomW1 »

1 No glass the rransom first then the stringers that way you won't have cut around the stringers.
2 The instructions I got with all my plans were 3 layers of tape in the corners and then the fiberglass but someone else may disagree.
3 I would use the 2 17oz and 2 13oz, that is more than what was called for on my C19 plans which called for 12oz glass.

Tom
Last edited by TomW1 on Mon Apr 10, 2023 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

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