1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

You can use Roseburg marine ply.

Any transom penetrations get overbored OR you can apply plates for things like trim tab or transducer mounts.

When you overbore, you drill 2x-3x the hole, then fill with thickened epoxy. Then drill to need and seal as normal. But the basic concept is the wood is sealed twice.

Roseburg is good enough for what you are doing because it is so many layers and buried in glass. Two layers of 3/4" or 3 if you ever want to go 250hp. For hulls, I would only buy from Jeff and pay freight, but for a small repair; that would be hard to pay the freight.

https://www.menards.com/main/building-m ... -13336.htm
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

The idea to move the well and battery oil around sounds super smart.

You could even add a kill box under the other seat; although it might be a bit messy for a cushion.
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Fuzz
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

About the transom,you need to run a straight edge across it and make sure it is straight. If you use 3/4 plywood it will not bend to conform and when you bed the plywood and pull it in tight it will deform the outer skin. I would not buy the plywood until I got the transom all cleaned up and see what I was working with. This is one place where fir plywood is good as it is stiffer than other types. And in the transom it will be fully glassed with several layers of glass.

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Thanks for the replies fuzz and fallguy.

Fallguy; I appreciate the tip on “over boring”…that seems SOOOO much smarter than just gobbing on some 5200. By the way, the guy who put that aluminum plate on…oh my gosh!! He went CRAZY with the 5200…that back sheet was a pain in the ass to get off!!

Fuzz; I’m 95% confident that the back of the transom is completely flat, but I will definitely verify that with a straight edge. As for the wood, I was thinking about buying now because the company I called only had 7 sheets of okoume left and said it takes about 60-90 days to get it restocked. But, I think I’m just going to go with the fir, which they have in stock all the time…so I don’t need to worry about that and can hold off on buying the wood until I have a better view and idea of what exactly is going on inside.

I’ll keep you guys updated and post some pics once I get her opened up..

Thank you to all who gave me great input!! I really appreciate it!!

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Quick question for you guys;

I’ve read on numerous other threads to screw a 2x6 across the back, about 2-3 feet from the transom to prevent it from “opening up” when cut apart. Do I have to do that before cutting to get access to the transom? Or before I actually start removing the transom?

And is a 2x4 good enough?? I only say 2x4 because I have a few laying around and don’t have any 2x6s laying around.

Thanks…

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

If you were going to move the ENTIRE transom then yes you would need to do that. In your case you are leaving the transom outer skin so I see no need.

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Ok, thanks. That makes sense…so basically, the outer hull skin should hold everything where it needs to be. I appreciate it…

fallguy1000
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

I probably would put a spanner in place; maybe just above the transom until you get new plywood bonded in. You just don't want the boat to flop open. You could gently ratchet strap the 2x4 so no holes even, or if u r worried about canting, two holes on each side that can be repaired.

All depends on if the stringers are all rotten.
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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Would a ratchet strap from cleat to cleat…lightly snuggled up work? Although that might get in the way…so maybe I’ll just put a 2x4 across the top of the transom in the back like you suggested Fallguy…thanks

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Re: 1984 Grady White Overnighter 20 - Transom Rebuild

Post by FlounderPounder »

Well, I had a little time this morning to “start” with removing the fuel tank and quite quickly hit, in my opinion, a pretty significant snag. I was able to remove the hatch with no real issue, once that was off, I went to remove the 2x4s that run across the top of the tank and found that all 3 of them have 2 screws on each side that are WAY out of reach of any screwdriver. Even if I was able to get a small Phillips bit in there, the screws are too long to remove without hitting the glass lip. Does anyone have any suggestions?? It’s tough to see the screws in some of the pics, but the one picture with the wedge that holds the tank in place, you can see how far back the screws are. I was able to remove 3 out of 4 of the “wedges” that hold the tank in place, but can’t get to any of the screws for the 2x4s. Only thing I can think of is just cutting the ends of the 2x4s off and worrying about it later. It’s either that, or I have to completely cut and remove the deck around the entire tank.

If anyone has any better ideas, please let me know. In the meantime, I’m going to make an attempt to get a Phillips bit in there with a low profile ratcheting driver.

I’m pretty sure I can get the screws out of the last wedge, but I highly doubt I’ll be able to get enough room for the 2x4s.
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