Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Hi, Hoping someone can make some suggestions, I'm building a DE23 and have realised that if I fit a rubber strip (30mm) on the plywood rubbing strip, which is 19mm, it would put the boat in the oversize category (load width) for transporting on a trailer (Western Australia). Looking at the beam on this build I probably only have about 5mm port and starboard before it becomes maximum width. It ould be wider with a permit but just want to avoid the extra costs and paperwork.
I'm finding that the average width of rubber strip starts at around 30mm, does anyone have any ideas on what could be used as an alternative that would be thinner?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

You could radius the wood and lay on stainless with an oval or solid back. More complex, but looks better. Costs more. Not sure if you can find it in Australia.

You can also go no rubber rail and use fenders at the dock.

Not sure the profiles, but can you make the wood thinner and buy some space?

I don't know how far along you are in the construction progress, but if the plywood rubbing strip were left off and instead the inside of the hull was reinforced, you could mount the rubber bumper strip to the hull directly. Or mount the plywood rubbing strip on the inside of the hull.

If it's that bad, you could carefully plane off the widest part of the boat under where the rubber strip will fit (make a more vertical flat).

You could have a section of rub strip removable, so whenever you need to trailer it you unscrew it.

peewee is on the right track. By moving the wooden rub rail to the inside, you now have an inwale. You will need to cut each frame the same size as the inwale so that it fits tight. Then epoxy it to the inside of the hull and frame instead of the outside. Then use a nice solid rubber rub rail outside to protect the boat and your all set.

Tom

Thank you for the ideas, they are appreciated. The DE23 is mostly assembled so it's too late to put a rubbing strip on the inside unfortunately.

Put the rubbing strip where you can and use something removable in places you do not have a rubbing strip , might not look as good .

Use the rubbing strip as it is intended, a piece you add that rubs against things and is sacrificed instead of the side of the boat. But also, has been suggested, deploy fenders when launching and coming into a dock. Remove them when traveling. Then when your rubbing strip gets banged up enough and needs replacement, modify the rubbing strip a lot thinner to accommodate the rubber strip. Doesn't seem you have much of a choice if you want to keep it under width restrictions.

Go with a thin stainless-steel strip. Paint the rub rail a sharp black and you are all se t. The metal willl will protect the wood and not add much width. Tom

I imagine the max beam location is not so straightforward to measure with the cabin. Would need to plumb bob down from each side, which has some error.

When do they measure the beam? At registration? Is there a reasonable chance of a roadside measurement?

Hi again and thanks for all the suggestions.
I will look at a stainless steel strip as an option.
Not sure if I need to post a separate question but I couldn't find anything on the forum regarding the volume of space under the sole of the DE23? I have been considering filling some areas with foam, limber holes or not or just empty space sealed as much as possible?
It is a requirement here in Australia to have a bilge pump on a 7m+ boat (4000 liters p h) if going offshore for 5 miles or more which is something we are likely to do a couple times a year. Thanks