Thanks. I do have longer poles. I have the 6 ft poles on now, and I have another set that can go as high as 10 or 12 ft which I'm thinking will be tall enough.
Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Thanks for the suggestion! I will reinforce those sections some more before I start laying on the hull sections. I'll double up the 2x6 going across and add additional bracing on the front and back. I've got a couple of steel angle irons. Maybe I will use that to reinforce the 2x4's holding up the molds and as additional bracing.Knottybuoyz wrote: ↑Wed Nov 09, 2022 11:46 am Strongback looks good. One suggestion. Reinforce Frame A and B as much as you can. This is where the plywood will take the most torture. Mine shifted after I brought the panels together at the bow and I didn't catch it. Over time the butt joint between the first two panels aft of the bow didn't break but bent slightly.
Keep up the good work.
I'll play around with a few ideas and follow up what I come up with.
thanks again
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28) - Update 2
11/13/2022 - Update 2
I have spent the last few weeks marking and cutting the pieces for the bottom and side panels. I lined them all up across a few tables and I was really happy with how they all lined up. I am getting ready to start splicing together the different sections with fiberglass.
I've done a few test pieces and this is the process I am planning on:
1. Marked a line 3 inches from the edges that are being joined.
2. Roughed up the front and back using 80 grit sandpaper.
3. I brushed, vacuumed, and used a microfiber cloth with a little water to clean off all the dust and debris from the boards.
4. I have them drying and will start fiberglassing in the next day or two.
I did have a few questions regarding the next few steps.
Q1. When cleaning the dust off the edges that will be epoxied should I be using water or is there something better?
Q2. Now that I have been working with this good quality marine plywood for a while I am wondering if there are any tips or tricks on how to mold the boards around the frame. Especially the transom and bow sections where there are a lot of curves. This wood seems very strong and resistant to warping or bending. Is it just brute force? (which seems to be what Knottybuoyz is alluding to in a previous post) Is there some other process I need to look into?
Q3. Is there a good way to clean off your epoxy tools? Like the rollers, straight edges, etc. Not having much experience with epoxy I wasn't sure if water would be enough or if I need some kind of solvent to clean them up.
As always, thanks for your feedback and comments.
I have spent the last few weeks marking and cutting the pieces for the bottom and side panels. I lined them all up across a few tables and I was really happy with how they all lined up. I am getting ready to start splicing together the different sections with fiberglass.
I've done a few test pieces and this is the process I am planning on:
1. Marked a line 3 inches from the edges that are being joined.
2. Roughed up the front and back using 80 grit sandpaper.
3. I brushed, vacuumed, and used a microfiber cloth with a little water to clean off all the dust and debris from the boards.
4. I have them drying and will start fiberglassing in the next day or two.
I did have a few questions regarding the next few steps.
Q1. When cleaning the dust off the edges that will be epoxied should I be using water or is there something better?
Q2. Now that I have been working with this good quality marine plywood for a while I am wondering if there are any tips or tricks on how to mold the boards around the frame. Especially the transom and bow sections where there are a lot of curves. This wood seems very strong and resistant to warping or bending. Is it just brute force? (which seems to be what Knottybuoyz is alluding to in a previous post) Is there some other process I need to look into?
Q3. Is there a good way to clean off your epoxy tools? Like the rollers, straight edges, etc. Not having much experience with epoxy I wasn't sure if water would be enough or if I need some kind of solvent to clean them up.
As always, thanks for your feedback and comments.
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
- Knottybuoyz
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- Posts: 2581
- Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:09 pm
- Location: Iroquois, ON Canada
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Hi MageDK
If you're using electric tools for sanding etc. Your method for cleaning off the dust is good. If you're using air tools I use acetone or denatured alcohol as there is oil in the air lines from the compressor, unless you have a trap. I use all air tools (well mostly) and a dust cyclone to get as much of it off the work as possible. Have only been doing this for a couple years and it's a game changer in time savings. I also will blow off an area with compressed air.
Laminate the transome off the strongback frames. Much easier but it is still brute force. I'll go looking for pictures. The long panels along the bottom towards the bow were the hardest to get to conform. Ensure you're kerfs are as deep as you dare go and put them about 1 to 1-1/2" apart. I used ratchet straps, huge zip ties and screws to get it to bend over Frame A and as I mentioned brace Frame A and B really really well. The force you'll put on the panels to get them to conform to the forms is pretty wild. I had to put two U Bolts in each side at Frame B, one on each side about half way down the side panel and put a ratchet strap to pull them onto the forms.
If you get to your cleaning your tools soon enough white vinegar will prevent it from curing and make them easier to clean. Acetone works as well as denatured alcohol or laquer thinner. If you get a tool, such as a bubble roller that has fully cured soaking it in Acetone or MEK will soften up the cured epoxy and a wire hand brush will clean it right up. Takes a couple days though.
Carry on!
If you're using electric tools for sanding etc. Your method for cleaning off the dust is good. If you're using air tools I use acetone or denatured alcohol as there is oil in the air lines from the compressor, unless you have a trap. I use all air tools (well mostly) and a dust cyclone to get as much of it off the work as possible. Have only been doing this for a couple years and it's a game changer in time savings. I also will blow off an area with compressed air.
Laminate the transome off the strongback frames. Much easier but it is still brute force. I'll go looking for pictures. The long panels along the bottom towards the bow were the hardest to get to conform. Ensure you're kerfs are as deep as you dare go and put them about 1 to 1-1/2" apart. I used ratchet straps, huge zip ties and screws to get it to bend over Frame A and as I mentioned brace Frame A and B really really well. The force you'll put on the panels to get them to conform to the forms is pretty wild. I had to put two U Bolts in each side at Frame B, one on each side about half way down the side panel and put a ratchet strap to pull them onto the forms.
If you get to your cleaning your tools soon enough white vinegar will prevent it from curing and make them easier to clean. Acetone works as well as denatured alcohol or laquer thinner. If you get a tool, such as a bubble roller that has fully cured soaking it in Acetone or MEK will soften up the cured epoxy and a wire hand brush will clean it right up. Takes a couple days though.
Carry on!
Yours Aye! Rick
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
- Knottybuoyz
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- Location: Iroquois, ON Canada
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Laminating the transome
Bringing the side and bottom panels into the forms. You can see the kerfs on the left side and the error in the kit. They should have been on the inside.
Heavy stitches along the bow and some small pieces of ply screwed to the panels to help keep them aligned.
This is what happens when you pull one stitch too many too soon! Ooops!
Lots of big stitches. I think these were 100 lb zip ties about 24" long. Not exactly cheap but everything else I tried broke too easily. Sorry, can't remember where I got them.
Hope that helps.
Bringing the side and bottom panels into the forms. You can see the kerfs on the left side and the error in the kit. They should have been on the inside.
Heavy stitches along the bow and some small pieces of ply screwed to the panels to help keep them aligned.
This is what happens when you pull one stitch too many too soon! Ooops!
Lots of big stitches. I think these were 100 lb zip ties about 24" long. Not exactly cheap but everything else I tried broke too easily. Sorry, can't remember where I got them.
Hope that helps.
Yours Aye! Rick
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Thanks for the feedback and the pics. That helps out tremendously.Knottybuoyz wrote: ↑Sun Nov 13, 2022 11:50 am Hi MageDK
If you're using electric tools for sanding etc. Your method for cleaning off the dust is good. If you're using air tools I use acetone or denatured alcohol as there is oil in the air lines from the compressor, unless you have a trap. I use all air tools (well mostly) and a dust cyclone to get as much of it off the work as possible. Have only been doing this for a couple years and it's a game changer in time savings. I also will blow off an area with compressed air.
Laminate the transome off the strongback frames. Much easier but it is still brute force. I'll go looking for pictures. The long panels along the bottom towards the bow were the hardest to get to conform. Ensure you're kerfs are as deep as you dare go and put them about 1 to 1-1/2" apart. I used ratchet straps, huge zip ties and screws to get it to bend over Frame A and as I mentioned brace Frame A and B really really well. The force you'll put on the panels to get them to conform to the forms is pretty wild. I had to put two U Bolts in each side at Frame B, one on each side about half way down the side panel and put a ratchet strap to pull them onto the forms.
If you get to your cleaning your tools soon enough white vinegar will prevent it from curing and make them easier to clean. Acetone works as well as denatured alcohol or laquer thinner. If you get a tool, such as a bubble roller that has fully cured soaking it in Acetone or MEK will soften up the cured epoxy and a wire hand brush will clean it right up. Takes a couple days though.
Carry on!
I had some plastic zip ties, but nowhere near as heavy-duty as the ones you are using. I am going to get a good number of ratchet straps as well to help with the bending and molding of the hull pieces.
The only difference in my approach is that I didn't put any kerf cuts on the hull pieces. I didn't see anything in the instructions that indicated I needed them, so I hope they aren't 100% required. I don't have a tool that could make those easily.
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
- Knottybuoyz
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- Joined: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:09 pm
- Location: Iroquois, ON Canada
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
You will likely find that you won't be able to bend the bottom section around the bow without the kerfs. They're not hard to make. You can use a circular saw set to about a quarter inch. A little more would be even better. You have to keep in mind that the panel is not only bending in one direction it's going two ways. Often referred to as "Tortured Ply".
Yours Aye! Rick
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Those jumbo zip ties are used by heating and air contractors to put together flexible duct work, so a HVAC supply house will stock them.
Hank
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28)
Thanks. I was able to find them. 24 inches long and rated for 200-300 pounds.
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
Re: Trawler 28 Build (TW28) - Update 3
Update 3 - 11/25/2022
I finished cutting out all the bottom and side panel sections. I have spent the last week fiberglassing the sections together. I don't have a lot of flat space so I do 4 pieces at a time, let them dry, flip, and redo.
1. I've got one bottom panel almost completely spliced together.
2. I laminated the 2 transom sections together and bent them over the transom frame. I wet both sections with Epoxy and also used thickened epoxy to glue them together.
3. I mounted the transom frame on the strongbacks so it's there when I am ready to fiberglass the transom to the hull.
4. I am also testing out a few different methods to cover the frame so the hull doesn't stick to it when fiberglassing. The plastic sheeting is a little messy, but I am also trying out duct tape on the frame. The epoxy doesn't seem to stick to the duct tape to well so this might be a cleaner, easier option.
I have added some photos to the photo gallery: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... dReG51TDl3
I finished cutting out all the bottom and side panel sections. I have spent the last week fiberglassing the sections together. I don't have a lot of flat space so I do 4 pieces at a time, let them dry, flip, and redo.
1. I've got one bottom panel almost completely spliced together.
2. I laminated the 2 transom sections together and bent them over the transom frame. I wet both sections with Epoxy and also used thickened epoxy to glue them together.
3. I mounted the transom frame on the strongbacks so it's there when I am ready to fiberglass the transom to the hull.
4. I am also testing out a few different methods to cover the frame so the hull doesn't stick to it when fiberglassing. The plastic sheeting is a little messy, but I am also trying out duct tape on the frame. The epoxy doesn't seem to stick to the duct tape to well so this might be a cleaner, easier option.
I have added some photos to the photo gallery: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... dReG51TDl3
Check out my Trawler 28 build viewtopic.php?t=66261.
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