Tom, thanks. I may try this with some scrap plywood. I also saw that there is a $8.99 Harbor Freight 17" sanding board...anyone used this one before?TomW1 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2023 7:37 pm I made my own long boards one flexible of 1/4" plywood and s solid oolide one of 1/2" plywood, each 3" wide. then I used a lightweight spray glue to hold the paper to the plywood. I got two large handles and screwed and glewed them to the top of the board. Make them as long as you are comfortable holding, remembering you will be pushing down on them. Tom
FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
My opinion…For knocking all the biaxial stitching down use power tools. Once you start exposing the strands of glass then move on to other areas. You want that as smooth as it can be before you start fairing.
On the transom all that appears to be not wetted out is the stitching which isn’t a problem. I’d say do your sanding to get rid of the stitching then reassess. If there are dry pockets I think it will look and feel like delaminations. Tapping around the transom with a quarter should give a good indication. Areas that aren’t attached well to the wood will sound “dead”.
On the transom all that appears to be not wetted out is the stitching which isn’t a problem. I’d say do your sanding to get rid of the stitching then reassess. If there are dry pockets I think it will look and feel like delaminations. Tapping around the transom with a quarter should give a good indication. Areas that aren’t attached well to the wood will sound “dead”.
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Josh_From_TX wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2023 3:50 pmfun, fun, fun! About time to get the shoulders back in shape!OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2023 3:15 pm You are going to want to sand it till you have a relative smoother surface and then you can see if you need to do something else. Looks good from the pictures. The sanding goes for all the glassed areas.
But seriously, any recommendations on best sanding method? I've been using a palm sander with 60 grit to knock everything down. I have a Random orbital, and 1/3 sheet sander. I don't have a long board...any recommendations? Thanks!
Use the RO with 80 grit. It will be fastest with what you said you have. Long boards and other tools used to get a flatter surface are not needed yet. Once you get to fairing then bring out the tools to make things flatter over larger areas.bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 17, 2023 9:38 pm My opinion…For knocking all the biaxial stitching down use power tools. Once you start exposing the strands of glass then move on to other areas. You want that as smooth as it can be before you start fairing.
On the transom all that appears to be not wetted out is the stitching which isn’t a problem. I’d say do your sanding to get rid of the stitching then reassess. If there are dry pockets I think it will look and feel like delaminations. Tapping around the transom with a quarter should give a good indication. Areas that aren’t attached well to the wood will sound “dead”.
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