FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

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Josh_From_TX
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by Josh_From_TX »

OrangeQuest wrote: Tue Oct 18, 2022 8:44 pm Easier to cut the transom down than to build it back up. If you do not know the length of the motor you are going to get, then build it for a long motor. Once you get the motor you can then measure it and trim the transom, if needing it, to that size.
If I complete the transom glassing, can I still cut it down and glass over the raw edge I get from cutting? I assume that after glassing, priming, and painting it will be more difficult to cut and make the repair look good, but it doesn't seem like it would cause structural issues. I just want to avoid buying a motor until I'm at least most of the way finished with the build.

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OrangeQuest
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by OrangeQuest »

Josh_From_TX wrote: Tue Oct 18, 2022 9:04 pm
OrangeQuest wrote: Tue Oct 18, 2022 8:44 pm Easier to cut the transom down than to build it back up. If you do not know the length of the motor you are going to get, then build it for a long motor. Once you get the motor you can then measure it and trim the transom, if needing it, to that size.
If I complete the transom glassing, can I still cut it down and glass over the raw edge I get from cutting? I assume that after glassing, priming, and painting it will be more difficult to cut and make the repair look good, but it doesn't seem like it would cause structural issues. I just want to avoid buying a motor until I'm at least most of the way finished with the build.
Cut, sand and treat an exposed edge. Verses grinding off any paint from both sides of the transom, extending the height of the transom with plywood filler that is sandwiched on both sides over most of the transom. Inside and out. Re-glass inside and out.
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by TomW1 »

Josh both Yamaha and Mercury have 15HP motors with 15" and 20" shafts. The other thing to consider is that a lot of dealers are quoting delivery times over 5 months out once you order one. Sometimes they come in sooner but don't depend on it. The other thing if you want a 15" shaft get with the dealer and get the actual shaft length and cut your transom to that height so you do not have to do it later. I am also starting to find that when they say 15" that they mean 15", no longer something you have to guess at. To me a 20" shaft is safer as it allows that 5" extra height to prevent less water from entering the boat from the stern.

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Josh_From_TX
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

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TomW1 wrote: Wed Oct 19, 2022 6:12 pm To me a 20" shaft is safer as it allows that 5" extra height to prevent less water from entering the boat from the stern.
Hadn’t thought of this as a reason to go with 20”. Very helpful. Thank you.

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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by Josh_From_TX »

Getting ready to order supplies for the build. So, if I want to glass all the way up the sides with 4 or 6 oz fabric, I assume it’s best to do at the same time as glassing rest of bottom and inside? Anyone know how much additional fabric is needed for this? Thanks.

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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

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Josh_From_TX wrote: Sat Oct 22, 2022 11:39 am Getting ready to order supplies for the build. So, if I want to glass all the way up the sides with 4 or 6 oz fabric, I assume it’s best to do at the same time as glassing rest of bottom and inside? Anyone know how much additional fabric is needed for this? Thanks.
I used the 3.5oz (4 oz) surfboard cloth to do the sides and all the surfaces on my FS14. At 50" wide, you can figure 4 meters to do both sides. Or, that is enough to do one side inside and out if you are really careful with the cutting. And depends on how much else you want to cover with cloth that the plans do not call for, 14-foot boat, 4 meters of cloth to go front to back with curves. I like the 3.5 oz in those areas because a neat coat to seal the wood, another neat wet coat as I lay the cloth and a third coat on top the cloth to make sure it is wet enough. Light sanding after it is cured and then a 4th coat of neat to fill in the fibers that are still exposed. Very easy to get a super smooth finish. Marine plywood loves to suck up the epoxy so bare plywood would require 2 or 3 coats to make sure you get it sealed, the cloth only adds a little weight and makes for a great finish.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
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Josh_From_TX
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by Josh_From_TX »

Started putting together the strongbacks/jig today, as the plywood should be arriving in a few days. It is exciting to finally be doing some hands-on work on the build! The interior spacing between the strongbacks is 34-3/4". I know this is wider than most and wider than the plans specify. It is the width of the chines at the narrowest frame (frame A). Is this too wide? I am trying to leave plenty of room to crawl under if needed. It is still at the stage where I can easily disassemble and narrow it up if needed.
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by VT_Jeff »

I don't have a string opinion on the width but I will say that I don't think the width is going to make a big difference in your ability to feed stitches and tape seams from the underside. I wouldn't let that drive the change in width. On the other hand, I can't see why wider would be an issue. I know jm touts his "self-aligning jig" system and I feel like the width of the jig plays a role, but I don't recall what. It will mean that your station supports will be shorter, not sure that matters.
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by TomW1 »

I believe it is too wide you need to be able to set the smallest frame on it so that you can assemble the frames and stringers on it. There is a reason for the size recommendations in the plans. Tom
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Josh_From_TX
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Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX

Post by Josh_From_TX »

Thanks…I’ll probably cut it down to spec before starting. After looking at some others in threads, I’m realizing the wider size is just going to get in the way.

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