FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2022 8:11 pm
- Location: Hewitt, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Yes, I think I’m trying to overthink it…stick to the plan…
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2022 8:11 pm
- Location: Hewitt, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Got the plywood kit yesterday and cut the tabs today…ready to start assembling! So, does it matter which side of the stringers the butt blocks go on? Inside or outside?
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2022 8:11 pm
- Location: Hewitt, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Also, considering weighing all the pieces before assembly…to add to VT Jeff’s weight data
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2022 8:11 pm
- Location: Hewitt, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Ok, I weighed the kit pieces on a postal scale and they total 104.8 lbs, including frame/mold C, which will lose about 1-2 lbs when cut down later.
This does not include the bow mold, 2 sheets 9mm okume (nominally 31lbs each) for the deck, rubrail, or cleat material.
So out of 3 9mm sheets + 4 6mm sheets (177lbs), we have used 104.8 lbs…approximately 40.8% waste.
I’ll try to keep track of wood weight as I go, if I can remember…
This does not include the bow mold, 2 sheets 9mm okume (nominally 31lbs each) for the deck, rubrail, or cleat material.
So out of 3 9mm sheets + 4 6mm sheets (177lbs), we have used 104.8 lbs…approximately 40.8% waste.
I’ll try to keep track of wood weight as I go, if I can remember…
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Josh,Josh_From_TX wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 9:11 pm Got the plywood kit yesterday and cut the tabs today…ready to start assembling! So, does it matter which side of the stringers the butt blocks go on? Inside or outside?
It doesn't really matter what side you put the butt blocks on the stringers.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Josh_From_TX wrote: ↑Tue Nov 01, 2022 10:29 pm Ok, I weighed the kit pieces on a postal scale and they total 104.8 lbs, including frame/mold C, which will lose about 1-2 lbs when cut down later.
This does not include the bow mold, 2 sheets 9mm okume (nominally 31lbs each) for the deck, rubrail, or cleat material.
So out of 3 9mm sheets + 4 6mm sheets (177lbs), we have used 104.8 lbs…approximately 40.8% waste.
I’ll try to keep track of wood weight as I go, if I can remember…
Great info! I did not expect that level of waste, I need to revisit my model.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2022 8:11 pm
- Location: Hewitt, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Thanks, Reid...just wanted to make sure. Now, on to the transom questions. The kit came with 3 complete transom pieces. The notes say to use 1 or 2, or 1 with a clamping board. I'd like to use 2 whole transom pieces and plan to use a 20hp or 15 hp (nominal weight 97-107 lbs). Don't think I'll want to go with a 25hp. The plans/notes say if using two whole transom pieces to cut 3/8" off the stringers for the additional transom thickness. This is my plan...will the transom be strong enough for a 20hp this way? Is there anything else I need to do with the kit pieces?
- Josh
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Josh,
Even though there are options for transom thickness, I would go ahead and install/laminate all three transom layers that came with your kit. The weight difference would be negligible and this would allow you to use any HP motor (within reasonable limits of course), in case you wanted to upgrade later on. Once the transom is laminated you would simply need to dry fit it to the hull/bottom panels and remove the appropriate length off the back of the stringers.
-Reid
Even though there are options for transom thickness, I would go ahead and install/laminate all three transom layers that came with your kit. The weight difference would be negligible and this would allow you to use any HP motor (within reasonable limits of course), in case you wanted to upgrade later on. Once the transom is laminated you would simply need to dry fit it to the hull/bottom panels and remove the appropriate length off the back of the stringers.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
-
- Frequent Poster
- Posts: 27
- Joined: Thu Oct 13, 2022 8:11 pm
- Location: Hewitt, TX
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
About ready to join the kit pieces. Everything is “easy” so far, but I did think the puzzle joints were supposed to be tighter. Do I need to fill in the gaps with thickened epoxy or just coat edges with thin epoxy and tape the inside side? The tutorial made it sound like I’d have a really tight fit. Thanks
Re: FS14LS Build in Waco, TX
Gaps are no problem and almost always desirable. seal edges with raw epoxy and fill any gaps with thickened epoxy before taping.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: TommyD and 10 guests