LM18 CC-TX build
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LM18 CC-TX build
First time building a boat but here goes nothing. Ordered plywood last Monday afternoon. Sitting on garage floor Friday. Over the weekend I cut out all the frames, laminated transom/stringers and got everything layed out on the strongback.
Re: LM18 CC-TX build
Welcome to the fun!
Looks like you are off to a good start.
Don't forget to tape the edges of the molds before you place the hull panels, to keep from gluing everything together.
Looks like you are off to a good start.
Don't forget to tape the edges of the molds before you place the hull panels, to keep from gluing everything together.
Hank
Re: LM18 CC-TX build
No time wasted there, wow!
As I just said in another LM thread, I'm a big fan of the design and look forward to seeing how it turns out, great start.
Jeff
As I just said in another LM thread, I'm a big fan of the design and look forward to seeing how it turns out, great start.
Jeff
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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- Location: Corpus christi tx
Re: LM18 CC-TX build
I messed up on the transom a bit. I went ahead and mitered the bottom edge of the transom so the angle matched the bottom line. That brought it down just enough (1/4”) where my side panels aren't matching up with the top edge of the transom. Should I rip a piece of wood to fill that gap and bring it back up or just fair it in later on the top side?
Re: LM18 CC-TX build
I think it's just going to mean a 1/4" flat spot where the sides connect to the transom, instead of the arch continuing all the way to the sides. My boat has this same thing much more exaggerated and it looks fine, imo, so I would not worry about it. If you didn't miter that, you'd have a gap to fill at the bottom of the transom, which is probably less desirable, "gaps are good" mantra not withstanding.
I say leave it. interested to see what the smart people say though.
Jeff
I say leave it. interested to see what the smart people say though.
Jeff
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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- Posts: 15
- Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2022 2:37 pm
- Location: Corpus christi tx
Re: LM18 CC-TX build
Got fairing done on chines and first layer of glass down on seams. Been unusually cold and wet in south texas this week so been taking it slow. Back in 70’s tomorrow, so I’m going to try and get bottom glass down tomorrow evening.
1) Using west system with slow hardener, temps 65-70, how much resin can I mix at a time?
2) I will probably be working by myself laying the biax down on the bottom. Should I precoat surface working one side at a time or should I lay down dry and coat from there?
1) Using west system with slow hardener, temps 65-70, how much resin can I mix at a time?
2) I will probably be working by myself laying the biax down on the bottom. Should I precoat surface working one side at a time or should I lay down dry and coat from there?
Re: LM18 CC-TX build
Looks good. I'm here in Blanco and unseasonably cold and wet it is. Tomorrow's 70's is a good temp for your glass day. I'd probably mix 6 ozs or so of resin at a time. More importantly I'd line up a bunch of cups with premeasured resin on one side and hardener on the other, so you could mix a fresh batch up in a jiffy. That way working in small batches is easy. I glassed the LB22 one half of the hull at a time, without pre-wetting the hull. Worked out ok but it was hot weather and I used Silvertip, which flowed real well. Don't think I'd do it that way again. I'd pre-wet the hull. First I'd cut the glass to fit, roll it on and mark it in several places to help keep it in place when rolling it back on for good. I'd worry about the glass sticking to the hull and being wrinkled as I rolled it on but that's how I'd do it. Fallguy or another more experienced laminator will hopefully chime in with good advice.
Dougster
Dougster
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build
Same method I have used too. Once glass is cut to correct size, with a little overhang all around. I fold my glass up, bout a foot at a time, starting at one end and folding, like a roll, but leave the folded glass on the hull on one end. I also tape the overhang so when unfolding it doesn't move. I'm assuming it is 12oz glass, BTW. Start unfolding and roll-on epoxy as you unfold. Because I work solo, folded glass is easier for me to control and don't have to worry the roll will take off on me when getting close to the curve.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne
A. A. Milne
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build
Thanks! Did one side at a time. Started with cloth rolled up and precoated as I went along and then came back for top layer. Dumping the resin out on top and troweling out was the way to go. Had to use a brush on the sides and that took forever.
I still have a few areas where the bottom coat of biax is saturated but the top isn’t. Do I need to do another fill coat with resin only or can I go straight to a thinned out layer of fairing?
I still have a few areas where the bottom coat of biax is saturated but the top isn’t. Do I need to do another fill coat with resin only or can I go straight to a thinned out layer of fairing?
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