LM18 CC-TX build

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Dan_Smullen
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by Dan_Smullen »

Happy Thanksgiving, and great progress!

If I had to glass a hull again, I’d flood coat with epoxy thickened with glass microspheres to the consistency cold corn syrup. Adding some silica will keep it from being too runny. Roll it on and squeegee where necessary. This will do a pretty good job of filling the weave, and after sanding, there will be a pretty good surface on which to start fairing.

Maybe try a small section to see how it goes. Keep up the momentum!

Fuzz
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by Fuzz »

Brake out the R-O with 40 grit and clean things up some. Not trying for perfect just knocking down the worst of it. At this point I like to mix up a real loose batch of the BBC fairing mix and fill the weave. Don't worry about getting it perfect with the first pass.

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VT_Jeff
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by VT_Jeff »

Like Fuzz said, at least knock down the stitches to reduce the weave to fill, and I like Dans pre-fair formula; Fairing compound is relatively soft so the thinner the coats the better.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

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SkinnyDipperTX
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by SkinnyDipperTX »

Did as yall said. Knocked down the strands a bit and rolled one more slightly thickened resin coat over everything. Now starting the fairing process. Using the west microlight filler. Can I attach the skegs and rubrail directly to the filler or should I grind down to fiberglass a bit so the adhesive has more to adhere to?
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VT_Jeff
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by VT_Jeff »

SkinnyDipperTX wrote: Thu Dec 01, 2022 10:01 am Can I attach the skegs and rubrail directly to the filler or should I grind down to fiberglass a bit so the adhesive has more to adhere to?
My .02:

For the skeg, I'd probably get down to glass to ensure it doesn't get bumped loose over time by knocking on the trailer etc. That will take about 10 minutes with a grinder. For the rubrails, not sure it's worth it, and you can also drive a few screws from the inside if you're concerned about them working loose. On my build, I taped off the rubrail area on my sides before coating to leave bare wood, but if I hadn't done that, I'm pretty sure I would not have gone back and stripped them back to glass or wood.

Regardless, always be sure to glue to well-roughened surfaces.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

TomW1
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by TomW1 »

Agree, always attach to the fiberglass for strongest bond. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

SkinnyDipperTX
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by SkinnyDipperTX »

Got some paint slapped on it and flipped. Kind of exciting seeing the inside after spending way too many hours staring at the bottom with a sander in my hand.
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Jeff
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by Jeff »

Nice progress!!! Jeff

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VT_Jeff
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by VT_Jeff »

Big congrats on the flip, Skinny, that's a major, major milestone! Hull looks great.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.

Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie

SkinnyDipperTX
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Re: LM18 CC-TX build

Post by SkinnyDipperTX »

Got inside glassed up, frames/ stringers set and filleted before the cold snap. Started cutting deck and sole since its too cold to lay resin. Does the top edge of transom need cloth on it?
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