Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

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fallguy1000
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by fallguy1000 »

Fuzz wrote: Tue Nov 29, 2022 8:18 pm I recently laid up one side of four 25mm panels. I put down a thin layer of resin and let it kick. While it was still green I laid two layers of 1708 over it. It came out good with no pinholes or bubbles. It will go down over crowned deck beams. With the glass only on the bottom side it will bend enough to take the crown no problem.
Did you wetout the 1708 on top of the hotcoat or on a table?

If you let the stuff kick; maybe that'll keep the honeycombs from drinkin resin?
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Fuzz
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by Fuzz »

I put down a thin coat, just enough to seal it, and let it fully kick. After that I laid both layers of 1708 at one time.

fallguy1000
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by fallguy1000 »

Fuzz wrote: Wed Nov 30, 2022 3:58 pm I put down a thin coat, just enough to seal it, and let it fully kick. After that I laid both layers of 1708 at one time.
Pretty smart...I was ultra nervous about resin dripping down so I did a lot of wetting on the table and moved the stuff which sux.
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Vundu
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by Vundu »

Hi, apologies for the quiet week, and thanks for all the advice!! Work seems to be getting in the way of important things (like boat building) ;)

From the plans my largest open span is 40 x 30 inches. I can run a support mid way, reducing the span to 20x30 inches, or 40x15 inches.

As I would like to maximise weight reduction with strength, what would be the best way to go in terms of laminating schedule, and would it be worth reducing the open spans with a foam encased beam? Also, would creating a crown on the deck of approximately 25mm (1 inch) over a total width of 2.4m (8 feet) before lamination add any strength to the sole?

Looking forward to your thoughts.

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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by fallguy1000 »

Crown is only needed on Category A boats or any boat that will get repeatedly awash. It won't offer much.

I made i beams from laminated core. You rip them out of any core scraps or make them from core offcuts. About 1-2" for the vertical section and about 4x the core thickness for the flat sections or for 12mm core say 2". Mine may be 1.5" for all pieces. This depends on the amount of room available if above a fuel tank, etc.

The I sections get a thickened resin fillet and a piece of 1708 tape on the vertical section. These cut your spans in half. 20" max is what you want. I think they are good for about 30" of support from my testing which was me standing on the middle of them, so a 30" i beam cuts your 40" section in half to 20". You do need an absolute stop or cleat under them and I tabbed mine in woth a small 1708 tape so they won't ever break away.

Make a test panel with 1708 each side or 1208 on the top for a lighter option that will still be waterproof and wear well.
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Fuzz
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by Fuzz »

If you are using epoxy I would use straight biax and skip the mat. Biggest reason is it wets out so much easier.
For a cabin sole flat is probably the best way to go. For deck I like some crown in it. No matter what there always seem to be tiny low spots that hold dirt/crap when scrubbing the deck. With a little crown the deck drains and cleans up much easier.

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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by fallguy1000 »

I'm not anxious to argue with Fuzz, but laminate stiffness drives thickness and I am nervous 17 oz biax could develop a leak or two, so I'm sticking with 1708 for my advice on the bottom and same on top or 24 oz of glass min, however you get there, not wovens.

Certainly worth a try to use 1700 and see what y think,
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by Fuzz »

No argument with you Dan. I am still not sure what resin is being used for this. I hate trying to wet out 1708 with epoxy. I have laid many rolls of the stuff with poly and it works well with poly. I agree around 25 oz will make a good laminate. If using epoxy the best IMO would be two layers of 12 oz biax. That would let all seams to be offset. Problem with using 12 oz biax is the cost. 1708 and 12 oz biax cost about the same so it doubles your glass cost. The builder has to weigh the cost/benefit to them.

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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by TomW1 »

I just saw this and did a little research. You can buy finished 1/2" Nidaplast panels from the store with 18oz biax and 10oz strand on each side. 1708 would be very similar, talk to Joel to see if you could substitute or substitute a thicker Nidaplast.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

fallguy1000
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Re: Nidaplast 8 laminating schedule for TX18+10% sole

Post by fallguy1000 »

TomW1 wrote: Sat Dec 17, 2022 10:46 pm I just saw this and did a little research. You can buy finished 1/2" Nidaplast panels from the store with 18oz biax and 10oz strand on each side. 1708 would be very similar, talk to Joel to see if you could substitute or substitute a thicker Nidaplast.

Tom
Joel hasn't been here for ?7 years.
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