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I have abandoned the OEM 703 side mount controls that came with this '03 115 in exchange for a MT3 Morse Control, so I need an ignition switch, and a switch for tilt and trim.

Can anyone confirm that Yamaha part 704-82570-12-00 will work?

The 703 controls were wired to the engine via a 10 pin cord. This ignition panel seems to have an 8 pin connector. Are the 2 missing pins for tilt up/tilt down?

TIA. I am in uncharted waters and learning as I go.

Super tired now Dan, so fairly useless. Yamaha rigging tech support is exceptional. Call them.

I have some experience with the harnesses, but how are you going from 10 pin to 8 pin? The t/t is probably correct, but you still need an adaptor?

Dan all I can say is that Yamaha has numerous switch configurations, so call them as fallguy suggested. Tom

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 09, 2023 9:24 pm I have abandoned the OEM 703 side mount controls that came with this '03 115 in exchange for a MT3 Morse Control, so I need an ignition switch, and a switch for tilt and trim.

Can anyone confirm that Yamaha part 704-82570-12-00 will work?

The 703 controls were wired to the engine via a 10 pin cord. This ignition panel seems to have an 8 pin connector. Are the 2 missing pins for tilt up/tilt down?

TIA. I am in uncharted waters and learning as I go.

Dan,

704-82570-12-00 appears to have a choke switch. Since your motor is EFI, I would not expect it to need a choke switch.

https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/70 ... eYQAvD_BwE

This one says 10-pin connector, does not mention choke:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Yamaha-Marin ... /631129862

I think that's wrong also.

I found this:

"1 Product Questions
hi I need the starting switch for F115TXRD 2005 but i can not find the part
mike

Nov, 19 2020
Answer:

Item #67G-82510-51-00 (MAIN SWITCH ASSY) is compatible with outboard model # F115TXRD."



It's hard to find a good description for 67G-82510-51-00

There is a cable harness that converts the 8 pin switch connection to a 10 pin engine connection.

688-82586-50 (5 meters)

What you should consider to keep integrated PTT wiring is this harness depending on length.

688-8258A-50
5 m (16.4 ft)
688-8258A-60
6 m (19.7 ft)
688-8258A-70
7 m (23 ft)
6K1-8258A-40
8 m (26 ft)
61B-8258A-01
9.5 m (31.6 ft)

And the Yamaha PTT switch 688-82563-10

This is based on a 2012 Yamaha rigging guide so numbers may have updated but most parts stores have cross comparisons if they did change.

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:10 pm There is a cable harness that converts the 8 pin switch connection to a 10 pin engine connection.

<a href="tel:688-82586-50">688-82586-50</a> (5 meters)

What you should consider to keep integrated PTT wiring is this harness depending on length.

688-8258A-50
5 m (16.4 ft)
688-8258A-60
6 m (19.7 ft)
688-8258A-70
7 m (23 ft)
6K1-8258A-40
8 m (26 ft)
61B-8258A-01
9.5 m (31.6 ft)

And the Yamaha PTT switch <a href="tel:688-82563-10">688-82563-10</a>

This is based on a 2012 Yamaha rigging guide so numbers may have updated but most parts stores have cross comparisons if they did change.

This guy!

Thank you gents! The IT search is narrowing!

Bamaguy, is this info you dig up in a hard copy of a rigging guide, on line, or off the top of your head?

It’s a PDF although I don’t recall where I acquired it. I imagine it’s supposed to be kept within dealer channels but I found it somewhere on the world wide web. It’s 13MB so if you PM me your email address I can share it.

There is a third option and it’s what I did for my boat. 688-8258A-20-00 is a 10 pin to pigtail essentially so you can wire in your own ignition switch and PTT switch. There are numerous universal options out there that don’t carry the Yamaha branding or costs. Just takes a little extra ciphering for making sure you splice the correct colors together. Not plug and play. I used a Sierra MP41090-1 switch for my boat. It has push to choke which I needed when I first put a 2 stroke on but when I swapped to a 4 stroke Yamaha that just didn’t get wired up. Tilt and Trim I have in a seastar throttle wired into that harness.

It fell off a truck…

Thank you again. I very much appreciate the hard data on the spec page.

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:24 pm I used a Sierra MP41090-1 switch for my boat.

Does that assembly have kill switch incoprorated?

My boat wiring got super complicated because I used Yamaha 10 pin, then cut into it for the Glendinning controls, then continued it up to the ign switch. Up at the switch, some 30 feet away, there was a little 6 pin connector that was interestingly unused..

Launch day comes, and I had checked t/t, but gambled on the crank.

Well, we had no crank and 50 people waiting for the kittens to purr. For the life of me, could not get a signal on the brown wire. So, we traced the brown wire and it was not getting crank signal, but the key signal was hitting my 10 pin brown? Y not at the engine? 3 hours of debugging every damn thing, I got the brainiac idea to go and see what was happening on the 6 pin. The 6 pin connector was supposed to go on the Yamaha binnacle, and there were two brown wires on it. Light bulb moment, I ask help to run the key and we reaized the Yammy binnacle had a crank lockout so if the handles are forward, no crank. So 4 hours after launch, we jumpered those two wires on both 6 pins and had crank. Then we had to get gas into the lines and some jackass told me I did not need primer bulbs. Turns out you need them anytime you have a dry f/w separator, so that added another full hour. Talk about stressful.

Anyhow, I've had my share of fun, so had some idea you needed to convert, but not the detail like bamaguy0.

His post was a gem here.

Did I miss which wires are not on the 7 pin? Is it trim up and trim down? I think it is Y,DK G, W, but only a guess. So, what is lost? (Tach, Kill, Ign Power?)

Or do you have it all figured out?

Fun thread.

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:02 am Well, we had no crank and 50 people waiting for the kittens to purr.

Not stressful at all. For such a smart guy, you'd think you would have done a super-secret "soft" opening before inviting the neighborhood to watch.

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:58 am

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:02 am Well, we had no crank and 50 people waiting for the kittens to purr.

Not stressful at all. For such a smart guy, you'd think you would have done a super-secret "soft" opening before inviting the neighborhood to watch.

All the friggin wiring I did and I missed by one jumper!

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 11:56 am

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:58 am

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:02 am Well, we had no crank and 50 people waiting for the kittens to purr.

Not stressful at all. For such a smart guy, you'd think you would have done a super-secret "soft" opening before inviting the neighborhood to watch.

All the friggin wiring I did and I missed by one jumper!

As I read through your dilemma, I thought you were gonna say that after 4 hours of troubleshooting no crank, you found that the throttles were not in neutral!

VT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:58 am

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:02 am Well, we had no crank and 50 people waiting for the kittens to purr.

Not stressful at all. For such a smart guy, you'd think you would have done a super-secret "soft" opening before inviting the neighborhood to watch.

Too cock sure. I remember so vividly thinking well it tilts, so probably got the rest right.

We’ve all been there. We’ll probably all do it again.

On the primer bulb front, I had an old car guy tell me any boat that doesn’t have a pump in the tank need a bulb at the key. Haven’t found a boat that proves him wrong yet.

Since I am wiring my build now, I go back and check everything every time I connect something up. I am trying to use a on/off/on switch for my nav lights/anchor light and just had to put a diode in the circuit. Worked every time I tested it. Yesterday, I tested everything at in the dark so I could see the gauge lights, switch lights and so on. Everything worked the way it should. This morning the nav/anchor lights didn't work. Very frustrating to say the least.

I still have to connect the aftermarket tach up and I hope the tach wire coming down the harness works with this gauge because it is also my hour meter. Troubleshooting automotive engine controls was easier than all this making wiring harnesses, heat shrinking all connectors and making sure I am using the right size ring connectors. On my back and trying to tilt my head back enough to use my reader lens on my bifocals. My shoulders seem to be wider than the room I have and arms and hands do not bend enough. The fun!!

Just glad my motor came with the controls and is just plug and play.

Dan_Smullen wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 9:46 am

bamaguy0 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:24 pm I used a Sierra MP41090-1 switch for my boat.

Does that assembly have kill switch incoprorated?

No it’s just a key switch. My kill switch is on the throttle assembly.

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 6:09 pm Since I am wiring my build now, I go back and check everything every time I connect something up. I am trying to use a on/off/on switch for my nav lights/anchor light and just had to put a diode in the circuit. Worked every time I tested it. Yesterday, I tested everything at in the dark so I could see the gauge lights, switch lights and so on. Everything worked the way it should. This morning the nav/anchor lights didn't work. Very frustrating to say the least.

I still have to connect the aftermarket tach up and I hope the tach wire coming down the harness works with this gauge because it is also my hour meter. Troubleshooting automotive engine controls was easier than all this making wiring harnesses, heat shrinking all connectors and making sure I am using the right size ring connectors. On my back and trying to tilt my head back enough to use my reader lens on my bifocals. My shoulders seem to be wider than the room I have and arms and hands do not bend enough. The fun!!

Just glad my motor came with the controls and is just plug and play.

This is up there in the best posts on the forum. While I was building, I had a few times I was reaching hard and It was hot and I had visions of the fire department saying don't worry, we are gonna cut you out..leaving pieces of hull on the tent floor..

I have a diode in my nav light setup, too. It is not done to ABYC! It is soldered because I could not really come up with a trustworthy way to crimp solid stranded wire...sorry for the mini hijack Dan.

There is much in this thread that I just don't understand!

BarraMan wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 10:06 pm There is much in this thread that I just don't understand!

Seriously? This thread is all about boatbuilding electrical fun!

Nothing better than crawling into a locker sized a little smaller than yourself in a 110 degree tent!

This little 8 pin conversion is good fun!

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 6:09 pm On my back and trying to tilt my head back enough to use my reader lens on my bifocals.

My wife's grandfather was a carpenter and got a pair of bifocals with the reading part at the top of the lens as well as the bottom, made putting up crown molding much easier. All the crown molding I've put up and I know about the option, you'd think I'd have gotten glasses like that, but no . . .

pee wee wrote: ↑Fri Jan 13, 2023 9:33 am

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 6:09 pm On my back and trying to tilt my head back enough to use my reader lens on my bifocals.

My wife's grandfather was a carpenter and got a pair of bifocals with the reading part at the top of the lens as well as the bottom, made putting up crown molding much easier. All the crown molding I've put up and I know about the option, you'd think I'd have gotten glasses like that, but no . . .

Wow. This is genius. I spend a lot of time in the shop, and under the console, taking off my glasses to read a tape measure, see a pencil mark or put a screw through a ring connector.

Bifocals are up next for me!

pee wee wrote: ↑Fri Jan 13, 2023 9:33 am

OrangeQuest wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2023 6:09 pm On my back and trying to tilt my head back enough to use my reader lens on my bifocals.

My wife's grandfather was a carpenter and got a pair of bifocals with the reading part at the top of the lens as well as the bottom, made putting up crown molding much easier. All the crown molding I've put up and I know about the option, you'd think I'd have gotten glasses like that, but no . . .

Those are almost every pair of cheap readers that I have a dozen of laying around! But I need my bifocals to climb in and out of the boat, that and didn't think to just wear my cheap pair.

For better light and warmth, I push the boat out into the parking lot and my regular pair of glasses have transitional lens that help with the bright sun light.I am sticking with that excuse for not thinking of the cheap pair of readers.