C17 open in France - launched

[TomW1]

Tom,

Thanks but I believe this is incorrect. On the plan the stringers end right at the back of frame B and don't cross it to frame A (which is way above the sole anyway). Besides I have not cut notches in the transom, what you see on the jig is Frame E, the transom is not mounted yet.

But thanks for the close examination, I'm sure there will be mistakes, there has been already.

Good enough just going on memory and did not realize you did not have the transom mounted. Carry on with the good work. Tom

[OlivierP]

Progressing, slowly. Busy assembling the stringers, transom, bottom panels. Made also some good progress on the console and pilot seat. The temperature is still low, gluing is only possible for a couple of hours in the afternoon.

[Jeff]

Good progress!!! Jeff

[OlivierP]

Dry fitting the motor well sides and transom. They fit

[pee wee]

That looks right! Take your time at this stage to check everything for square, for alignment, hook or hog in the aft section, etc. Take diagonal measurements, pull string, use a laser, whatever you have available, this is your easiest time to get things right or wrong.

[Dan_Smullen]

Looks clean and fair!

May be too late, but something that I believe is worth mentioning.

One thing I would have differently on my C19, would have been to delay cutting out for the motor until I had a motor in hand. Imagine prepping the transom or a 20" shaft motor, and then finding a deal on a 25. Also, after building up glass on top of the clamping board, and shaping the "v" at the bottom of the hull, I wound up with about 21" from the top of the clamp to the keel. While mounting the outboard this was enough for us to question whether or not the motor will be too high. We will soon find out...

Maybe the best case is prepping for a 25" shaft, but allowing enough meat to cut it out further if required.

[OlivierP]

Thanks to all.

Regarding the motor, I have it already, a 50hp Yam on my RIB that I'll transfer in due time, so dimensions should be ok. I have even already drilled the mounting holes.

I'll double check alignment. I have used a laser when mounting the jig but nothing is perfect. I have a couple more days before assembly because I intend to pre-drill the transom for the swim ladder and the kicker bracket, easier when the transom is laying flat and not yet painted.

[OlivierP]

I'm progressing, slowly, to get the plywood to bend and take shape. I'm using thicker plywood than specified and it's very reluctant to strong bending... getting there, with patience. I don't know if spot welding with epoxy will be strong enough to hold everything together when I remove the stitches, there's so much tension, I may need to tape some places at the bow with small pieces of tape. We'll see, I'll dry fit the upper side panels first.

You may notice that the side panels overlap the bottom. As discussed in a previous thread, I have decided to include built-in reverse chines filled with epoxy (like the OB15), as I had enough plywood available in the new nesting, the lower side panels were extended by 1 inch for that purpose. I thought I could still cut them down if I didn't like the result but it looks good and I'm keeping them.

[OlivierP]

Stiches removed, sanded, upper panel dry fitted.

Next step, fill stitching holes and gaps, build reverse chines, glue the upper panels.

[OneWayTraffic]

I was going to recommend that you glass the bottom before gluing the upper side panels. Easier to reach.

I'd run the bottom glass to the panel overlap, and cover with a fillet there. Easier to fair the transition.

It's also a good time to precut the rubrail pieces before gluing on the upper side. You can trace the outline, cut and check for fit on the shop floor. Obviously don't glue them until the panel is on.