RickW Ph18

[Rrick411]

Getting a head of myself but does anyone have prop pitch ideas for a 2007 Yamaha 70 2 stroke on these boats?

[Rrick411]

After the hull is glued together and taped you can remove the screws. Unless things are under lots of strain just the glue will hold things in place. It is best to wet out the wood before glassing as the wood will suck up some epoxy. different woods will suck up different amounts.

Thank, same applies to gluing butt blocks? Wet out first? That seems logical.

[TomW1]

Getting a head of myself but does anyone have prop pitch ideas for a 2007 Yamaha 70 2 stroke on these boats?

A 70 is on the low end of the HP range for the PH18 but is doable if you keep the build weight liight. I can run the prop pitch through my calculators if you can give me the weight of the boat as it is set up to leave the dock. Weight is the most important part of the calculations and 125-150lbs can mean a shift of a pitch. I haven't propped a 70HP PH18 yet but did do a 90HP one and as I recall it was 13 x 17. But don't quote me on that I would have to go back to check my files. The basic specs for the 2st 70HP are max rpms 6000, gear ratio 2.33, weight 229.3lbs.

Tom

[Rrick411]

Getting a head of myself but does anyone have prop pitch ideas for a 2007 Yamaha 70 2 stroke on these boats?

A 70 is on the low end of the HP range for the PH18 but is doable if you keep the build weight liight. I can run the prop pitch through my calculators if you can give me the weight of the boat as it is set up to leave the dock. Weight is the most important part of the calculations and 125-150lbs can mean a shift of a pitch. I haven't propped a 70HP PH18 yet but did do a 90HP one and as I recall it was 13 x 17. But don't quote me on that I would have to go back to check my files. The basic specs for the 2st 70HP are max rpms 6000, gear ratio 2.33, weight 229.3lbs.

Tom

IT has a 13.5 x 15 on it now. Given the 17 on the 90, I'll bet that's close to what it will run. Have to see how close I get to 6k. I have a little experience with glass, very little, mostly gel coat repairs but I have glassed up a couple deck plate holes. I'm sure there will be a learning curve and I am not going to be the pro at keeping this the lightest. I'm excited to stitch this up now that I have the stringers on the jig and bow mold done, I have to travel a bit for a funeral today so I'll jump on that tomorrow morning.

[Rrick411]

I am planning on a jack plate, a water pickup for a live well, and I have a through hull transducer I want to put in the bottom. Not to mention the drains. I will over size drill the holes and fill with epoxy. When is the best time to drill the hull? I'm thinking with the bottom holes I'll drill after paint and flipping, drilled from the inside. Do the water pick up (non high speed low profile mushroom with no screws) and transducer need backing plates inside on this thin hull? I'm thinking yes. Asking mostly for the Jack Plate as I need to buy that to have for the template.

[Rrick411]

I guess I need to think about things like running lights too, put them in the hull sides instead of on deck. I need to make a list of these things "not to forget" as I go forward.

[swglenn]

I used these aluminum plates inside the transom. My jack plate is also from Bob's. At the time there was a BBC discount.
https://bobsmachine.com/product/transom-backing-plates/

I mounted my running lights on the side of the console. I see new boats with their running lights mounted there.

[TomW1]

Yep, running lights can be mounted anywhere as long as they are 180 degrees along the bow and do not cross the bow. Tom

[Rrick411]

I used these aluminum plates inside the transom. My jack plate is also from Bob's. At the time there was a BBC discount.
https://bobsmachine.com/product/transom-backing-plates/

I mounted my running lights on the side of the console. I see new boats with their running lights mounted there.

That makes it easy, but it lights up the inside of the cockpit big time when you're running. Always an issue with smaller boats with the white all around light too unless you have a t top.

[Rrick411]

I will be working mostly by myself, I will get some help when I glass the bottom panels. I have little experience with fiberglass, I have removed a couple deck plates and glassed the holes and repaired a gash in a bow. I have done some gel coat repairs also over the years. Questions: When I glass the large bottom panels, should I think about peel ply? Will it be to much of a hassle for this nube? I'll be sanding outside in the 90 degree humid soup we call weather here, so any help limiting that is welcome and an expense I would be amiable too.