I used peel ply once and found it not necessary. Nothing wrong or too hard about it--it's best to get it on smoothly w/o wrinkles and then leaves a nice surface, easier a bit to fair and helps reducing excess resin I suppose. I tried cheap plastic and didn't like that at all. The good stuff adds exspense but it's nice. I wouldn't bother with it, but that's me.
Dougster
RickW Ph18
Re: RickW Ph18
Don't worry about peel ply on the bottom, work on getting it properly epoxied and filled and leveled. Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: RickW Ph18
Thank guys, I will heed your advice. I need to crawl under and tape the seams tomorrow, I will either be fine afterwards or not walking for 2 days, getting old and bad back sucks! LOL, hopefully I'll be good and I will do some tack weld gluing.
Re: RickW Ph18
My Son found a job where I live and moved up by me (NW Florida) from S. Florida last week, had to go move them and get them settled. Life always gets in the way of boat / fishing stuff. I am going to start glassing tomorrow. I would like to do the seams and then the cloth over the hull wet on wet, but that is likely ambitious for me. I do have an extra set of hands (my son) now, although unskilled with this type of work. I might be able to get my Brother in Law to help (Another smart old school handy guy) on Thursday. How much time do I really have to do the full hull glassing after glassing the seams? DO I really have a full 24 hours? 80 degrees and 60% humidity. Can I do the seams tomorrow afternoon and then come back and glass the hull Thursday morning, when I have help, without sanding?
Re: RickW Ph18
The talking heads got together today in the pool, knocked down a few cold ones, and decided I'll get everything measured, cut, and ready tomorrow. We will glass it Thursday and see how much we can get done.
Re: RickW Ph18
Rick have one person mixing the epoxy and 1-2 spreading it. This should prevent mixing mistakes. Also you asked about curing time18-24 hours is the max between coats of epoxy.
Tom
Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: RickW Ph18
Whew! good or bad, we got this done today. Glassed the seams and then the hull. Took 3 of us (MY Son and Brother in law) about 7 hours including a break for lunch between the seams and hull. MY wife is the Sandwich Queen! We pass on the cold beer till it was done. TO anyone who has done this solo? My hat is off to you. I am glad I waited till I had help. https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... 8129~0.jpg https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... play_media
Re: RickW Ph18
Congratulations ! Working solo it took me 4 days to glass the bottom - 2 days for tapes, then half hull glassed, then the other half...
Built C17 app.php/gallery/album/262, GF14 app.php/gallery/album/263, Devlin Bella 16. Sails a 30ft Biloup 89 sailboat.
Re: RickW Ph18
Gentlemen? Am I overthinking this? hull glass laid up and getting ready to start sanding this week. The plans call to flip the boat, glass the inside, tab stringers and bulkheads, flip it back and then fair and paint the bottom. I see many going right to the fairing / painting the bottom before flipping or tabbing in the stringers. Won't the bottom contour / fair likely change if done with no stringers or bulkheads when it is flipped to tab the stringers? I have the last 7 to 7.5 feet from the transom reasonably straight, I just worry that will change after flipping without the stringers and bulkheads tabbed in. Should I get the stringers and bulkheads tabbed in before fairing the bottom?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Cowbro and 1 guest