I can see the chore it had to be.
RickW Ph18
Re: RickW Ph18
Re: RickW Ph18
Another question? I have a few voids. Do i grind out and fill them before I start sanding? That seems like the correct process.
Re: RickW Ph18
Yes
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978
Re: RickW Ph18
https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... 171841.JPG
https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... _28129.JPG
I fell like I am taking to much material off trying to get this glass smooth. Using a Bosch 6 inch orbital on orbit not turbo, 40 gritt paper. How smooth am I looking to get? Is 40 too aggressive? Thanks
https://community.boatbuildercentral.co ... _28129.JPG
I fell like I am taking to much material off trying to get this glass smooth. Using a Bosch 6 inch orbital on orbit not turbo, 40 gritt paper. How smooth am I looking to get? Is 40 too aggressive? Thanks
Re: RickW Ph18
RickW,
You should not be sanding into the biaxial fiberglass. If you sand down and cut into the fiberglass, you are compromising the integrity of the glass. The biaxial cloth has a cotton fiber that sits proud of the fiberglass. This cotton fiber is used as a guide for fairing. You need to fair up to the level of the cotton fiber and then sand the fairing compound smooth.
-Reid
You should not be sanding into the biaxial fiberglass. If you sand down and cut into the fiberglass, you are compromising the integrity of the glass. The biaxial cloth has a cotton fiber that sits proud of the fiberglass. This cotton fiber is used as a guide for fairing. You need to fair up to the level of the cotton fiber and then sand the fairing compound smooth.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: RickW Ph18
Thank you Reid, I stopped sanding as I noticed I was getting into the fibers. I do see the cotton. Just to confirm, There are square indentions between the directional fibers, The fairing will fill those? I'm not looking to sand real smooth. I was thinking I may not have put enough resin to fill or fully wet out as the resin sits lower than the top of the fiber strands.Reid wrote: ↑Thu Jul 13, 2023 12:48 pm RickW,
You should not be sanding into the biaxial fiberglass. If you sand down and cut into the fiberglass, you are compromising the integrity of the glass. The biaxial cloth has a cotton fiber that sits proud of the fiberglass. This cotton fiber is used as a guide for fairing. You need to fair up to the level of the cotton fiber and then sand the fairing compound smooth.
-Reid
Re: RickW Ph18
RickW,
A common mistake I see a lot of builders make is thinking they need to sand the fiberglass smooth prior to fairing. Another mistake is using straight epoxy to fill the weave from the biaxial cloth. This adds unnecessary weight and adds cost to the project. The goal of a good lamination is to shoot for the highest fiberglass percentage one can get without leaving the fiberglass starved for epoxy. At the end result of a good lamination you should be able to feel the texture of the cloth. If the lamination feels like an ice skating rink then the lamination has too much epoxy.
Going forward to fairing, the texture left from the biaxial fiberglass is the "tooth" that allows the fairing compound to make a mechanical bond. Fairing will fill in all those void spaces. I recommend fairing in a few thin coats as apposed to one really thick coat. As I said earlier, use the cotton fiber as a guide.
-Reid
A common mistake I see a lot of builders make is thinking they need to sand the fiberglass smooth prior to fairing. Another mistake is using straight epoxy to fill the weave from the biaxial cloth. This adds unnecessary weight and adds cost to the project. The goal of a good lamination is to shoot for the highest fiberglass percentage one can get without leaving the fiberglass starved for epoxy. At the end result of a good lamination you should be able to feel the texture of the cloth. If the lamination feels like an ice skating rink then the lamination has too much epoxy.
Going forward to fairing, the texture left from the biaxial fiberglass is the "tooth" that allows the fairing compound to make a mechanical bond. Fairing will fill in all those void spaces. I recommend fairing in a few thin coats as apposed to one really thick coat. As I said earlier, use the cotton fiber as a guide.
-Reid
Someone asked me, if I were stranded on a desert island what book would I bring... "How to Build a Boat."
- Steven Wright
- Steven Wright
Re: RickW Ph18
Thank you Sir! Excellent guidance. I do appreciate it. And yes, I was thinking about, contemplating, some of those mistakes! LMAOReid wrote: ↑Thu Jul 13, 2023 2:12 pm RickW,
A common mistake I see a lot of builders make is thinking they need to sand the fiberglass smooth prior to fairing. Another mistake is using straight epoxy to fill the weave from the biaxial cloth. This adds unnecessary weight and adds cost to the project. The goal of a good lamination is to shoot for the highest fiberglass percentage one can get without leaving the fiberglass starved for epoxy. At the end result of a good lamination you should be able to feel the texture of the cloth. If the lamination feels like an ice skating rink then the lamination has too much epoxy.
Going forward to fairing, the texture left from the biaxial fiberglass is the "tooth" that allows the fairing compound to make a mechanical bond. Fairing will fill in all those void spaces. I recommend fairing in a few thin coats as apposed to one really thick coat. As I said earlier, use the cotton fiber as a guide.
-Reid
Re: RickW Ph18
40 grit would be too much for me. I used 80 and 60 now and then. Really the 80 with my RO seems pretty potent.
Dougster
Dougster
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