RB16 New build 1st time Kentucky

[TommyD]

Been lurking here and on Glenn L for the last month. Started my build on 3/5/24. Need all the help and advice I can get
Don't crucify me for not using the correct boat terms, I'm getting there!
A few questions
1. Per Plans: Clamping board total thickness 1.25" for 25 HP or less, add one layer of plywood, total 1/75" for engines above 25 HP. I was thinking 40HP but am open to suggestions. Would like to cruise at 25-30mph on flat water. Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?

1.1. What is the sweet spot motor for this build? If I don't need 40hp why spend the extra?



2. I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person.
--Is this possible and a good idea?
--Will doing this cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?

3. How is the 4" at the gunwale measured? From outside hull or outside of rub rail?

4. What are you using for cleat material 1"x1"?

Jig with forms.



First Epoxy Job

[TommyD]

Bump on first post questions

Today’s questions:
I epoxied a few puzzle joints yesterday and smoothed out plastic on them and added weight . Check out pic.
I assume I need to sand those smooth?
Or will FG cover the rough surface?
What are best practices for smooth epoxy surfaces?

Had some epoxy left over so decided not to waste it and applied to one side piece. Doesn’t seem like the best idea this morning started with 60grit what grit should I sand too?



Decided to add FG to one side of the puzzle joint since I have to eventually. Tried the wet on wet. At least it saved me some sanding.



Looking for tips cause I surely don’t know what I’m doing!

[Reid]

Tommy,

I would definitely sand those areas smooth. This will be easier when the panel is lying flat on the ground. In the future, only need to coat a few inches on either side of the puzzle joint and then lay plastic down. The rest of the plywood can be coated by rolling out a thin coat with a 1/8" nap roller or high density foam roller. This can be done while the panels are lying flat on the ground or once they are hung on the frames.

Also, I don't like to put a fiberglass splice on the joint until the panel is stitched together. This will ensure that you don't get any flat spots. It's not a big deal, it still should bend just fine.

-Reid

[OlivierP]

I don't know this particular plan, but in general the gunwale overlaps the rubrail, so the 4" gunwale width would include the rubrail.

Good luck with your build

[TommyD]

Reid, Thanks for your prior answers and help

What about these items??

---Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?

--- I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person. (see picture of plan above).

So station E-- small deck 7", seats, and driver controls--station D--10" deck, seats and footrest--- Station C-- open center with only 4" or 5" king plank at the gunwale all the way to station B. So from D to B it would be open except for 10" deck all the way across in front of station D. Deck from B to bow.

I know we talked about RB18 but this is a little different layout.




--Is this possible and a good idea?

--Will putting the controls in front of station E cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?


Thanks

[Jeff]

Tommy, Reid is on vacation through next week. Jeff

[TommyD]

Bump for Reid

Reid, Thanks for your prior answers and help

What about these items??

---Reid at boatbuildecentral.com is sending me a 3/8" additional Transom piece. After adding that do I need to reduce the Motor Well sides and the stringers by 3/8"?

--- I would like to make the cockpit like the picture with the controls between E&D, then a short deck, then lounge type seats like the front of a Pontoon with slanted backs and longer footrests. This would require removing the top center portion of station C. (I would leave the required 4" Deck at the gunwale.) per plan: Cockpit dimensions to builder's preference. We show suggested dimensions.
Side decks minimum 4" wide. Cockpit length 29" fits average person. (see picture of plan above).

So station E-- small deck 7", seats, and driver controls--station D--10" deck, seats and footrest--- Station C-- open center with only 4" or 5" king plank at the gunwale all the way to station B. So from D to B it would be open except for 10" deck all the way across in front of station D. Deck from B to bow.

I know we talked about RB18 but this is a little different layout.




--Is this possible and a good idea?

--Will putting the controls in front of station E cause the boat to porpoise with only 2 riding?


Thanks

Bump for Reid or anyone else with answers or opinions.

[Buz]

I like your plan.

I have never seen a recommedation from the designers against opening up the top of a frame so long as the sides and bottom of frame are present.

Seems to me your new transom layer can be put on the outside to avoid all that other stuff. I think.

And if you're putting your weight toward the back, you'll just add some weight up front to balance it.

You could wait to hear from Reid to be sure, but I didnt want to see you come to a stop while waiting.

[OlivierP]

Yes I see no issue with the cockpit layout.

For the transom, if you're adding a layer inside, indeed adjust the motor well accordingly, maybe the stringers depending on where the layer goes (if it's just a clamping board it may sit above the stringers ?

A boat this size will be sensitive to weight distribution, with the crew at the back it may ride a little bow high and take more time to go on plane, so indeed put weight forward as you can. Maybe trim tabs also.

[TommyD]

Do I need to angle/fair the bottom of the transom to match the motor well side?

Transom angle with motor well

The top of the transom is flush with the top of the motor well when they meet but will have a gap on the outer side

Top of transom after flip

If I don’t will this not create dip at the top joint of the transom while creating a rise at the bottom.

Or does glue and fiberglass solve this problem without doing anything else???