FS15

[thb]

I was looking over plans for the FS14 which I previously built and sold to one of my grandsons.

It looks like I could stretch it 15-1/4 inch to utilize the full size of two sheets of plywood. The controlling length are the two side panels. The beam could be increased by 2 inches by adding 1 inch to each bottom panel and the entire width of the sheet of ply would be used.

Has anyone ever done this?

Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee

[thb]

Well I have been studying the plans and I think I have it figured out on where to add dimensions to increase the length and beam.

Add one inch to the width of each bottom panel. Add two inches to the bottom panel area of each frame. I may scrap this part as I think this will affect the side panel lengths too much. I could probably do it if I shorted the boat a few inches to accommodate the side panel lengths which are the critical size due to the plywood size.

Add 11 inches to transom side of each bottom panel. Add 4-1/4 inch to each bottom panel between the two constant width areas in the middle of the panels.

The side panels will be increased so that the entire 96 inches of each piece of ply is utilized. 11 inches at the stern side and 4-1/4 inches at the bow side. Naturally extend the curves at each end.

This has been an interesting exercise.

I have built the build jig and raised it off the floor with 4 x 4 posts 17 inches long. Added the extra length required for the longer boat. Need to get the ply sheets out and start cutting frames.

Does anyone have a computer program to show what a 2 inch increase in bottom panel width will do to the side panel lengths? I can figure this out after all panels are put together and set up on the frames. Cut off some length at the transom to make everything fit but this trial and error and not ideal. Simple thing is to leave the width of the boat the same.

I am surprised that no one has done this before. I could not find anything on the forum and I read the info on increasing 10%. I just trying to maximize the boat based on the plywood lengths. Do not want to waste any of this Okume. I was also thinking of getting rid of the center seat and have gunnel and side supports every 16 to 24 inches so I can have open cockpit and full width floor similar to my FS17. Have a small console and remote control suzuki 20 hp white motor.

Regards
Tom In Steinhatchee

[OlivierP]

With stitch and glue, all scaling should be done with the same % in all dimensions on developed panels, otherwise the shape of the developed panels would have to be redrawn to match the new dimensions in 3d. If you upscale the 3 dimensions differently there is a risk (certainty ?) that your panels won't match when you assemble them. The gaps may or may not be large, but beware.

[thb]

Oliver,

Thanks for the info. It actually makes it easier to deal in percentages. My 8.5 percent stretch will result in a boat that is 15 ft 2-1/4 long. Still not sure if I should widen the bottom by this amount. The widest measurement on the bottom panels would increase from 25-3/8 to 27..525 which is wider than I wanted to go although the plywood width would allow the extra with no room to spare .A 8.5 percent increase will result is side panels that are 14.51 inches longer and this is within the extra 15-1/4 of plywood length I have to play with.

The layout of the frames would have to change on the 3/8 inch sheets and the bow frame would have to be taken somewhere wider than the current 48 inch width. The rear deck and front deck piece of ply could be used if I make these parts out of a composite sheet. Just thinking about alternatives.

Got my creatives juices thinking.

Thanks
Tom in Steinhatchee

[rick berrey]

I wouldn't widen it for only a couple inches , length only will only require you to space the frames 8.5% from the plan spacing , length only you will get a little faster boat and little chance of a screw up .

[Buz]

You do know you need to get permission to make a second boat from these plans, right?

Sounds like an interesting boat.

[thb]

Buzz,

I spoke with Reid the other day. I have 2 sets of plans for FS12 which I purchased ( second Set purchased a month ago before I realized I already had a set ). I also have plans for 4 other boats which I will never build which they can not take back due to Policy and issue with Jacques estate. ST21, GF16, PH15, GV15.

Its not like I have not supported BBC as I have built FS17, FS14, FL12 and CH16.

The CH16 canoe I will put in the for sale section soon after completing the interior finishing. It is 1/4 okume with floation in each end and meranti enclosed. Cooler section in the middle. Nice set up but I am too old without the balance I had in my youth. It has not been in the water yet. I will post pictures soon. Most of that build was done 10 years ago.

Thanks for the input.

Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee

[thb]

Rick,

Thanks for the input. I think you are right relative to not adding anything to the width. It just makes things a lot simpler. Just stretch 8.5% on bottom and side panels. Most of it will be at the stern. I will figure something out on where to put the frames. Bow frame will have to move forward and stern frame will have to move aft. Lots of options. I think it good idea to keep the mid seat frames in the same place which surround the bottom and side joints.

I will add another frame midway to the stern seat frame and maybe one midway to bow frame.

These extra frames will remove some of them later along with portions of the mid seat frames. I want an open deck and the mid seat prevents that. Of course I would keep the outside sections of those frames and the area between the stringers. I could make a T section vertical section by adding ply strips on either side. This may not be required after they are tabbed in to the side panels.

All this would take place after the flip and after the stringers and stern and bow frames are glassed in.

Other builders appear to have removed the mid seat and other plans with open decks have vertical sections along the sides. I plan on having a sole at stringer height probably out of composite. Foam flotation underneath.

Regards
Tom in Steinhatchee

[Buz]

You're about 2 boats ahead of me. Think I've got an XF20 and maybe a Plyak to go still before I stop.

Please know that I meant no disrespect.

I think I'm installing my sole next week. I haven't done one yet. What will you use for your sole, and why not ply?

[thb]

Hi Buzz,

I am not sure what core I will use yet. I have to visit my good buddy in Perry who has loads of core, resin and glass which he has been buying up from boat building companies who are going belly up and drastically cutting production due to the current economic conditions. So Sad. This overspending by our govt and inflation and high interest rates are killing the boat building industries.

I will let you know what I get from him. A couple of 4 by 8 sheets should do the sole and the forward and rear decks. I might go up there in the morning. I want light and strong after adding layer of epoxy and cloth.

Best regards
Tom In Steinhatchee