AD16 - Cool Change

[ArizonaBuilder]

Terry,

I can see in your pictures that you used what appears to be 2" pieces of 1" pvc pipe as a brace inside the hull. I have not see this done before (Great Idea!). Is there anything on the exterior of the hull that is used in conjunction with the internal pvc pipe?

Yes, I actually used 2" x 3/4" pipe on the inside of the stitches to help with edge alignment. Nothing is used on the exterior side of the hull. The pvc pipe simply aligns the edges of the ply when the stitches are tightened. I bought a 10' length of pipe and used my circular saw to cut the short pieces. With the blade guard held back I was able to cut the pieces in no time.

I can't take credit for the idea as I read about this technique a year ago, somewhere on the net. I also liked the idea and it worked great for aligning the edges.

[abr]

I decided to not go with the particle board the defines the stringer shape ...
... I don't think I really want to be climbing inside the boat until the cloth is layed ...

Hi Terry !
The building notes say to support the bottom panels from below. If not the "particle stringers", maybe several piles of books ? Some old tires ? It's a temporary thing.

Use large HD foam pads under your feet/knees to spread the load, and walk/stay over the bulkheads.

Or, for a revolutionary solution, use your hang glider harness suspended from the ceiling of your shop:

http://www.icaro2000.com/Gallery/HG%20G ... ry%20L.jpg

BEWARE about ultralight flight: it's addictive; the only fix I know is ... boatbuilding

Many thanks for sharing the "piped stitching" technique !

Angelo

[ArizonaBuilder]

Angelo,

thanks for the idea about the HD pads.

If you look at my basketmold you will see that the boat is supported on the bottom at each frame location from A to transom.

When you mentioned about transferring the load using the pads made me think about using a length of 1x6 board to crawl on to help support my weight.

A couple of 1x6's one on each side of the keel should do just nicely.

[glcost]

Terry,

From your new pic's, I'm surprised to see that the AD has a flat stem on the bow. Are my eyes working right?

The progress looks great.

George

[ArizonaBuilder]

Terry,

From your new pic's, I'm surprised to see that the AD has a flat stem on the bow. Are my eyes working right?

The progress looks great.

George

thank you. And yes, your eyes are not failing you yet.

The stern piece is flat. In another forum, I was asking one of the other builders how or if he was going to round out the stern piece . I want a rounded looked to the front of the bow, so I will be building it up with HD foam and plyood inserts where the bow eye and the chainplate are attached.

So my approach to the bow, will be. Firberglass the inside and outside of the bow piece with the required laminations. Followed by a build up of the stern piece with foam and plywood inserts, with a final shaping and fiberglassing. I hope the approach is acceptable with Jacques..

Tonight, I am going to notch my stringers and frames so I can put them into the boat. I want to do a dry fit of the frames so I can check the hull shape and make any small adjustments before I immortalize its shape with epoxy.

When I am happy with the shape of the hull I will epoxy tab the chine and keel and let this cure for 24 hours before removing the frames and stiches and starting my fillet and FG work.

[jacquesmm]

Terry,

From your new pic's, I'm surprised to see that the AD has a flat stem on the bow. Are my eyes working right?

The progress looks great.

George

Look at other sailboats: the bow isn't razor sharp. Often the radius is a few inches. In this case, at the cut water, the radius will be less than 1".
That stem piece makes the boat stronger and easier to build.
One can always sharpen the bow but there is no reason for it.

[jacquesmm]

So my approach to the bow, will be. Firberglass the inside and outside of the bow piece with the required laminations. Followed by a build up of the stern piece with foam and plywood inserts, with a final shaping and fiberglassing. I hope the approach is acceptable with Jacques..

You can do that but there is no other reason for it than esthetic preference.
You don't need it for performance but if you like the looks of a sharp bow, add some foam ect. as you write.

[ArizonaBuilder]

I agree with Jacques, the stem piece made assembly very easy and gives a nice strong area for the bow eye and chainplate.

I am going to round the front but very slight, and only for esthetic purposes.

[glcost]

That stem piece makes the boat stronger and easier to build.
One can always sharpen the bow but there is no reason for it.

Thanks for the explanation. I really like the look of the AD and have gone over the study plans many times but never noticed the flatten stem. I hope to build one in the future and sail it in Puget Sound.

[ArizonaBuilder]

Well, I will keep posting pics and maybe we can get you to break down and start the boat earlier than planned.