Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

A couple more days work by Capt. Sam and myself got all the dry fitting finished, the bow and stern transoms glued in, all the seat cleats installed, and all 3 laminations of rubrail completed. That job was a gooey mess, complicated by working late one night and somehow not mixing hardener in the last batch of glue A mistake we hope not to repeat!

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3680

Then we trimmed and sanded the rubrails and flipped the boat to install the bottom. My Porter Cable RO sander made quick work of fairing the rail. Sam is proud of his work!

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3681

The bottom panel fits perfectly with no more than a 1/8 in. gap anywhere.
Yall have done a great job with these plans! No surprises yet.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3682

There are two Captain Sam's in the one picture!!

Ralph

Remind Capt Sam to where rubber gloves while working with epoxy.

Its a bitch to get it out of the fur. Just ask my dog Libby .

UncleRalph wrote:There are two Captain Sam's in the one picture!!

Ralph

LOL. The other one is Sam's (actually Sampson's) first mate Delilah. She comes by occasionally to check on progress but offers no help at all.

Its a bitch to get it out of the fur. Just ask my dog Libby

Delilah knows too. She went to sleep and woke up glued to the concrete. Kinda freaked her out. I had to cut her loose Since then she's kept herself at a distance.

Another week or so of work and still moving along. We got the boat flipped again and filletted and taped all the inside seams, chines and frames. I started in hidden areas to practice, I sure needed it. I'm a far better carpenter than fiberglass man! By the time I got to the public areas the results showed much improvement.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3890

I added an additional frame in the bow to support the large deck area (some of my friends weigh 300 lb.) and to create a watertight compartment at the bow to be foam filled. The front block is to back up the bow eye, yet to be installed. The small block is to backup the forward spray rail bolt.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3891

We finished all the seat tops, hatches, hatch supports and backing plates for future seat pedestals.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3892

And completed the greatest hurdle so far, installing the spray rails. This is hard to do alone and Capt. Sam wasn't much help. I used 1X2 red oak and it did not bend easily. I made the mistake of starting at the stern and by the time I got to the bow it was a bugger to bend. Took all kinds of clamps and cawls. Once it was finally in place, I was concerned about the tension on it. I countersunk holes for 1/4 SS bolts on each end and fabricated backing plates for the nuts, just for peace of mind. It looks good though, I think. Sam's glad that part is over. He learned some new words.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pos=-3894

The next step will be to glass the entire bottom inside. I wonder what new lessons that will bring?

Larry, your boat is looking very good! I also can't belive the progress you are making! Nice!

Thanks Dane. Capt. Sam is a hard worker! We should be catching shrimp in a month if all goes well.

Hey Larry, how's your GF 16 progress? Got it painted yet?
Love to see some pics. Just started mine and I'm already customizing slightly.

Yep Bluff, she's finished! It took Capt. Sam and I 90 days from plans to completion and we are extremely happy with it. A very fine and sturdy boat, better than anything I could buy.

The only things left are rod and gun racks, and to purchase a motor. I'm going to borrow a couple from friends first, to try different horsepowers.

We painted it inside and out with 2 coats of Easy Poxy and she looked great. Then we used 5 colors and 15 cans of both Krylon and Rustoleum camo spray paint. The seat tops and decks are coated with Evercoat Skid-No-More, a rubber based non skid.

I just posted some pics to my gallery, check them out.

I'd like to commend Jacques for a great design, the whole crew at BBC for all their good service, advice and support, and to everyone here who offered advise and moral support Now I've got to decide what to build next. Thanks to all yall

I've been working in Blufton all week, I'd like to drop by sometime and check out yours if you don't mind? And you are welcome to do the same

What have yall done to that place anyway? Jeez the traffic is terrible!

Fantastic job. Thanks for the pictures.

What are the "rollers" for at either side of your benches?

Jason

You have built EXACTLY what I plan to build. That is a great duck boat.
I also like the deer hanger you got there.....

Boat looks really good there Larry. I hope my 2 dogs are as helpful as yours. I know for sure one will end up glued to the floor.

Did you go with a live/baitwell or any electrical provisions for night running? How’d the sink test go?

You’re welcome to visit anytime. PM or Email me. Although I only have the pieces cut at this point so there’s not much to see. Would love to see how yours turned out and get some tips.

Yes our sleepy town that used to have Piggly Wiggly and Squat N Gobble on the main drag as highlights, now has everything under the sun and traffic to go with it. 278 is a nightmare. The mass exodus is in full swing. So many transplants…so little time.

Anyway, looks like you’ll be in fine shape for shrimp season, eh. Will be interesting to see how it handles different HPs.
Whatcha looking to build next? The Pangas, PH16 and OB15 look like nice core designs.

What are the "rollers" for at either side of your benches?

Jason, thanks. They aren't rollers, but 1 5/8" hardwood dowels. Multi-purpose. They serve as handles for lifting and carrying the boat, a place to hang fenders for hip towing or docking, a place to tie multiple crab lines or baskets, and they serve as cleats for dock lines. Plus I think they help the looks, I didn't really like the way the frame ears stuck up there, so I made them do something useful.

Did you go with a live/baitwell or any electrical provisions for night running? How’d the sink test go?

Bluff, no livewell but it would be a snap to add one. There is plenty of room to put a cooler with an aerator under the seat when I need a livewell, which is almost never, so I didn't make a permanent one.

No electrical system for two reasons. This boat will be abused and electrical connections are a constant source of trouble. In GA, if you have an electrical system you are required to have full nav lights at night, but if there is no electrical system you are only required to show a white light such as a flashlight.
I prefer to run without lights of any kind, they ruin my night vision. And what's the point of camo if I'm going to light it up?

The sink test was great. I used a piece of railroad track to simulate engine weight and pulled the plug. She kept 8 or 9 inches of freeboard with 120 lbs. of iron and 3 adults.

BTW Bluff, I've got some left over glass, tape and fillers if you want them. PM me, come see the boat and pick up some extra stuff. The kit was not nearly enough for my tug, but I did double the scantlings and the glass.

I hung the boat from a game scale to weigh it. 216 lb. That's 56 over the design weight, but I like it like that! Sorry Jacques.

Larry,

As I said in my own thread, your boat looks great. Any tips on the paint job? I plan on putting a camo finish on mine as well. I was hoping to be the first camo GF-16, but see what procrastination got me. I've had my plans for some 15 months, but just now got started.

I posed several other questions to you on my thread. Post up or drop me a line if you don't mind.

Looking forward to some pictures of yours in the water. Any idea of the real draft yet?

Thanks,
Tim

What a great looking boat. I would not have had the "guts" to sink my OD 18. Look to go into building withdrawal for a little while now. Good luck. Cottontop

I really appreciate that, Cottontop

As to sinking it, that's the first thing I want to know about a new boat. Small boats of course, without engine, without electrical systems. It prevents surprises later when you may be less prepared to deal with them. No big deal.

Tim, thanks. Sorry I haven't seen your thread yet but I'm glad to answer or help any way I can. I'll respond on your thread when I get there.

For the paint, I started with 2 coats of light gray epoxy (as pictured) just for a base. I went over that with a dark green, spraying streaks in a vertical pattern and leaving some gaps. Then switched to light green, again in a vertical pattern painting between the dark green stripes. (almost all lines in nature are vertical). Then I cut about a dozen palmetto leaves and taped them to the rubrail down the length of the boat. Switched to light brown and sprayed around the leaves, using them as a stencil. Switched to dark brown and did the same in places. When I removed the leaves, the sides looked just like a palmetto thicket. Then I switched to a light tan sand color and sprayed along the chines, which gave the effect of a palmetto thicket growing out of a sand dune. Looked good but needed more grass so I started painting cattails freehand. I would paint a clump about every 2 feet with light green. Then went back again with dark green doing the same thing between the first ones. Always painting vertically with each "stalk" ending in a "V" at the chine. Did this repetitively, switching colors every trip around so that some colors overlap others and nothing becoming too prominent. Kept this up until I was satisfied with it. It will blend in to almost any environment and I'm pretty happy with it.

Hey Larry, paint job looks great. Can't wait to see what you come up with for rod holders and gun racks. I see PM doesn't work here or maybe I've got it set up wrong. My Email shows though. I was going to check to see if its OK to stop by sometime this weekend and get some tips and check out your rig. Was in Steinhatchee scalloping last weekend...
Did you do engine testing yet?

Hey Bluff, sure it's OK. Don't know what's wrong with the PM, but email is lteuton@aol.com or cell 912-655-5674. Feel welcome, just filled up the beer cooler for the weekend.

Larry,
Excellent camo job. That must have taken a lot of hours to complete inside and out. Great work.
I also like the idea of the dowels. I might do something on the same level with a V12. Crab lines usually get wrapped around the oar lock or any other available protrusion. The dowels would solve that problem.
I don’t know where you put in, but your statement, “I prefer to run without lights of any kindâ€

Thanks for the compliments, CMsgt!. Thanks for what you do, too!

Man, it's a small world! That stretch of river I've probably caught a zillion pounds of shrimp over the last 45 years. Cast nets, drag net, set nets, seine nets, you name it. From the hotel, used to be the Oglethorpe, now a Sheraton, to the Skidaway Marine Institute dock. One of the best spots for shrimp in the state. Usually not very good past the Landings Harbor. Too bad it has so much boat traffic now, takes the fun out of it. All the CG and game wardens take the fun out of it too You won't find me there anymore. Maybe Crooked Creek or Oyster Creek. Out of the traffic.

As to your worry, don't be, I'll see, hear and avoid you. I will also hit you with a million candlepower spot if we get too close.

If you see me on the river, please indroduce yourself!

Oh yeah, where do I put in for shrimp? Thunderbolt, Causton Bluff or Lazaretta creek public ramps, usually. Sometimes Skidaway River, sometimes Carolina.

Larry,
Wow! I know where every location you mentioned is. I do remember the old Oglethorpe. I also remember being able to spend the day on Daufuskie Island before the developers messed it up. Anchor at Bloody Point, picnic lunch, pick up shells, and my mom always had to pick up drift wood. Grew up on Talahi Island.

CMSgt wrote: I also remember being able to spend the day on Daufuskie Island before the developers messed it up.

'Fuskie just fine da way it be

No Joel, Fuskie was jus fin de way she use ta be. Now she be all fusked up.

Jimmy Buffet got it right on the Prince of Tides album. Down of Daufuskie Island the bulldozers buried the past, and, how can you tell what it use to be when there's nothin left to see.

CMSgt, we may just know each other. If you grew up on Talahi, you went to Johnson and/or Jenkins High depending on if you was before, during, or after integration. I graduated Jenkins, 1970.

Dey be gud swimps and trout in da Richardson Cr too. Dat be Talahi.

An if ya really know Fuskie, an da Bloody Point, tell me who is Silas?

Man you that got that right on the mark!Evild.

Cracker Larry wrote:No Joel, Fuskie was jus fin de way she use ta be. Now she be all fusked up.

Jimmy Buffet got it right on the Prince of Tides album. Down of Daufuskie Island the bulldozers buried the past, and, how can you tell what it use to be when there's nothin left to see.

CMSgt, we may just know each other. If you grew up on Talahi, you went to Johnson and/or Jenkins High depending on if you was before, during, or after integration. I graduated Jenkins, 1970.

Dey be gud swimps and trout in da Richardson Cr too. Dat be Talahi.

An if ya really know Fuskie, an da Bloody Point, tell me who is Silas?

Let us wind up on the east side of the wind .Jimmy Buffet,live on DUDE!

Larry,
Johnson, 1973.

Had a cousin though that lived on Habersham that graduated from Jenkins either 71 or 72.

Sometimes was able to catch a few trolling in Richardson Creek and Turner Creek. Also used to drag a 10-foot net in Mudd River back when that was legal. Back then we built boats with screws and without plans.
There's still a 16-foot flat bottom sitting on Talahi that was built around 1975. Marine plywood, 3/4 inch bottom, 1/2 inch sides, transom is two pieces of 3/4 inch glued together. Held together by screws and the entire exterior to include the rub rails is glassed. It's been sitting for a few year and needs to be rebuilt or decommissioned.

Now I'm having a difficult time figuring out who Silas is. There used to be a single store on Daufuskie. Would Silas be the proprietor?

Johnson 73, huh. No doubt we have mutual friends.

Now I'm having a difficult time figuring out who Silas is. There used to be a single store on Daufuskie. Would Silas be the proprietor?

Nope he was long dead. Silas is the name on an old slave grave, just inside the tree line on the Mungen Creek side of Bloody Point. I haven't been there in a few years. Maybe the bulldozers got it, too

Hey Larry,

How is it actually using the boat instead of building?

Mine is coming along, I just have been fishing out of my production boat more than working on this one. I got started back last week as the fishing slowed a bit.

Anyway, I'm about to the point of needing paint and want your opinion on the EasyPoxy that you used. Where did you get it and how much did it take to put two coats on the GF-16? What method did you apply it with? I'm probably going to roll mine. It looks fairly shinny in the one picture in your gallery. I was initially looking for a dull grey for the primer. I'm going to do a similar camo job as you did. How is the Krylon holding up and was it just the normal, flat stuff? I don't suppose you covered the primer on the bottom panel with any other paint, did you?

Sorry for the 20 questions, but want to get it right.

Tim

Hello Tim. We've really been enjoying it! My wife and I have about got the freezer full of shrimp already. I decided on a 25 Merc. for power and I am very pleased with the performance.

http://gallery.bateau2.comdisplayimage.php?pos=-5327

Easy Poxy is great paint. I got it from a Boat US store in Savannah. It took almost a gallon for 2 coats inside and out. I rolled it on and tipped behind it with a foam brush. It is very shiny and hard as it is designed to be a finish coat. The Krylon/ Rustoleum is holding up fine. No it is not normal flat, it is specifically made for and called camoflage paint. Buy both brands because the colors are different even though the cap colors are the same. I only camo painted the bottom in the bow section where it is visable.

Every place we stop with the boat, someone tries to buy it from me! Very satisfying to get so many compliments on a homebuilt boat.

http://gallery.bateau2.comdisplayimage.php?pos=-5331

Here are my home made rod holders..

http://gallery.bateau2.comdisplayimage.php?pos=-5332

Larry,

Great additions to the gallery. That rig really turned out great. Hoping mine can hold a stick to yours. I'm counting on the flat, camo finish to hide some spots that should be sanded or faired more.

I'm going with a 25 hp too, but mine will be a Johnson, 3 cylinder. It weighs about 150 pounds where your Merc weighs about 100 pounds. I don't think 50 pounds will matter much and I want the extra torque of three cylinders. Plus I got a great deal on it off Ebay and it is electric start & oil injected.

Do you have a hand held GPS to get a speed on your rig? I'm curious what to expect from this light hull. Also, what is the draft as rigged?

Mine's coming along, and I'm still thinking I'll get it complete in the next 4-5 weeks.

Tim

Tim,

The boat is sensitive to weight in the stern. The Merc weighs 112 pounds and the boat tends to ride with the bow high, even with another person on the center seat. I installed a Doel Fin which helped but even with the motor trimmed all the way down the bow is still too high at lower speeds. I'm thinking of adding trim tabs. Plan of putting your beer, fuel and battery as far forward as possible. Even when I tested it with a 15 hp it rode with the bow high.

Draft is negligable. Maybe 3-4 inches at the stern. Less than that when planing..

Yes to the GPS. The hull is light, even though it was overbuilt. It will run about 43 mph. with 2 people. It won't win races but fast enough for a flat bottom boat.

Are you serious, 43 MPH with a 25 hp???!!!??? That has got to be some kind of record, and I can't wait to get mine done if that is true. I duck hunt on public land and speed wins you the spot you want.

Where is your gas tank? I think I read that you didn't do an electrical system, so I figure you don't have a battery.

I'm putting my gas tank under the bow deck and my battery under the middle seat. I put my access to the middle seat on the port side and the battery will go as close to that side as possible.

Good to hear on the draft. I've got a trick to help me get even skinnier too. Jacques doesn't like it, but I'm putting a tunnel in mine.

My aluminum beater with a 3 cylinder 40 Yamaha will barely top 30 MPH with a hunting load. I'm stoked to hear that your boat is as fast as you said.

Take care,
Tim

timoub007 wrote:Good to hear on the draft. I've got a trick to help me get even skinnier too. Jacques doesn't like it, but I'm putting a tunnel in mine.

The tunnel will make it ride lower in the stern and hurt your planing performance. It will draw more water, and not go as fast. I assume Jacques already mentioned this. There are good reasons why the XF20 is so wide. Good luck to you -- the Fur Elise (a D15) has a tunnel, which I thought was a questionable choice, too.

Rick,

Yes, Jacques has mentioned that and several other reasons why he does not like this modification. This will be my boat and that is how I'm going to build it though. It will be basically the same dimensions of my current aluminum boat, yet lighter. Where I fish and hunt has a very soft mud bottom and tunnel hulls are the norm. There are other additions to replace the surface area lost to the tunnel, thus putting the draft at or near the normal design.

The speed loss due to a tunnel is a design issue specific to the tunnel used. My production flats boat has a very large tunnel in it and subsequently is 7 MPH +/- than the hull without the tunnel. 50-51 versus 58-60 is a fair trade off for me. I am putting a fairly small tunnel in my GF-16 because of experiences I've had and local builders I've talked to.

The Fur Elise had many modifications that were both good and bad (from my point of view). While many think that the GF-16 hull is too narrow for a tunnel, there are many 36" & 42" bottom boats running the marshes around here that have tunnels. None of these boats (that I have ridden in) have shown any signs of chine tripping or other ill handling.

Have you built, driven or even gone for a ride in a tunnel hull similar to my build? Do you speak from some sort of experience or are you mearly repeating what you have read? If you know of first hand issues with what I'm doing to my hull I would really appreciate hearing them.

Larry,

Still hoping that your numbers are written as true.

Take care,
Tim

Have you built, driven or even gone for a ride in a tunnel hull similar to my build? Do you speak from some sort of experience or are you mearly repeating what you have read? If you know of first hand issues with what I'm doing to my hull I would really appreciate hearing them.

Larry,

Still hoping that your numbers are written as true.

No advise from me on the tunnel. Never ran one, never rode one.

But the speed number is true by Garmin, light load, maybe 300 lb. of people, 36 lb. gas under center seat, 80 lb. shrimp and ice in the bow. The tide was ebbing about 2.5 kts. Ran uptide and down then averaged the 2 numbers. Running about 45 downtide and 40 uptide SOG. The hull is light and slick. Remember it's rated for a 15.

timoub007 wrote:Yes, Jacques has mentioned that and several other reasons why he does not like this modification. This will be my boat and that is how I'm going to build it though.

Go for it.

timoub007 wrote: Have you built, driven or even gone for a ride in a tunnel hull similar to my build? Do you speak from some sort of experience or are you mearly repeating what you have read? If you know of first hand issues with what I'm doing to my hull I would really appreciate hearing them.

Tim,

I've never been in a boat with a tunnel. There aren't many places on the west coast where they would make sense. I have read a lot about boat design and building, and have been reading this forum since the old format (2002?). The tunnel topic comes up frequently. You are a new poster on the forum, and sound like this is your first boat build (excuse me if I am wrong about this). If you have a lot of experience with tunnel flats boats that contradicts what I've heard elsewhere -- build on.

Like a lot of folks here, I try to contribute in areas where I think I can help, or when someone sounds like they are enthusiastically going the wrong way. I try to only share things that I know are right (I don't have to build an FL12 with a 50hp outboard to know that it's going to go Horribly Wrong), or that I have personal experience with.

I'm not sure why you end up sounding irritated at what I wrote. If you replace a smooth hull with the same hull with a tunnel cut-out, it will be slower -- as you wrote -- and it will ride lower in the water with the reduced volume aft. You may accept the small (your numbers show about 15%) speed decrease, and design around the reduced bouyancy (moving weight forward, for example), but you can't change the physics.

Build your boat and let us know how it works. I'm always interested in new ideas and new projects. No matter what happens it's not going to be one of those hideous Clorox-bottle "express cruisers." Best of luck in your build.

Rick,

I am truely sorry for the way my post sounded. I reread it and realized how harshly it sounded. I must have had a bad day and should have cooled down.

Thank you for your well wishes on my build. All you noted about a tunnel hull versus a plain bottom is true. What I disagreed with was how it will run in the end. I do accept the speed loss as the running draft is what is needed. The running draft will be less due to getting the prop and lower unit jacked up higher, maybe 4 inches or so.

Again, I am sorry for the way my previous post came across. This is my first build, but I'm not that new to the forum. I've been reading for about 2 years (just not posting much) and have had my plans for a year and a half. I also have the help of another builder, though not a S&G builder.

Larry,
I am sorry that I messed with your thread. I am exstatic about your speed though. Even with a 15% loss from my tunnel I'm looking at 36-37 MPH. That is awesome in my book for a 25.

Thanks,
Tim

Tim, no problem on the thread. This is Jacques board, not mine

FWIW, I tend to agree with Rick about the tunnel. Just doesn't seem to be enough boat to support it ,and the draft is insignificant as it is designed. Even as overbuilt as mine is. But WTF, people argue with me all the time. It's your boat, build it how you want it, that's why we build our own. It might work great and either way we may all learn something. I'd like to see some photos of it. Best of luck

Where do you get the 15% number? Seems low to me, but again, I know nothing about tunnel hulls.

Larry,

The 15% is roughly the difference in speed between my Scout flats boat with and without a tunnel. I get 50-51 MPH out of my boat with a tunnel, and have read that others with the same hull sans tunnel get close to 60.

I realize that the tunnel should put the boat deeper in the water when sitting still (static). What I'm after is to decrease the running draft. The tunnel will allow me to get my motor mounted 4 inches or so higher on the transom. I may even use a jackplate to get it even higher. This puts 4 inches less skeg and prop below the bottom plane of the boat.

Just for kicks, could you measure the length of motor protruding below the bottom of your hull? I am guessing that you'll get about 10-12 inches. So driving over a hard bottom, the shallowest you're likely to get is 10 inches. Does that make sense? In effect the tunnel will allow me to run the boat in 5-6 inches of water. And as I said, the bottom is soft mud around here so I will be able to stay on plane in 2-4 inches.

I'm definitely going to keep the photos coming. I'm close to installing my tunnel and will take pics for my thread. I'll snap a shot with the tunnel sitting in the boat and put it up tonight so you can get an idea of what it will look like on the interior.

Thanks for the well wishes. You are right, this is why we build our own.

Tim

Just for kicks, could you measure the length of motor protruding below the bottom of your hull? I am guessing that you'll get about 10-12 inches. So driving over a hard bottom, the shallowest you're likely to get is 10 inches. Does that make sense? In effect the tunnel will allow me to run the boat in 5-6 inches of water. And as I said, the bottom is soft mud around here so I will be able to stay on plane in 2-4 inches.

Sure, be right back.

OK, good guess. 13" exactly. The anti-cavitation plate is 1" below the hull. If I knew that ahead of time, I would have built the transom 2" higher.

I wish I could get power trim on a 25 Merc. That's the way I am used to gettin skinny

Makes sense, if it will work on this small of a boat. Again, good luck

Thanks for measuring that Larry. I will definitely post up and admit defeat if I fall on my face.

I went to West Marine and ordered my EasyPoxy this afternoon. They had to order it so I won't see it until the end of next week. A gallon of that stuff was a 100 bucks. And I had to get it in "sandstone". The only way I could get grey (any shade) was in quarts. 4 quarts would have cost over $125. How did you get grey? I figure I'll just use more of the spray cans, or I'll go get some "deck" paint in a grey shade.

Did you take a look at the newest pics in my post?

Tim

The good stuff is always pricy I bought quarts. I had 2 left over from another project and bought 2 more. Color doesn't much matter, it's just a good base for the spray paint. I used about 15 cans.

Yes, I did look at the pics. Very interesting Build on my man.

Larry,

Do you recall approximately how much epoxy you had to mix up to wet out the glass between the mid-seat forward frame and bow frame? I'm thinking that it will take in the neighborhood of 12 ounces, but don't know for sure. I'd like to mix it all in one batch if possible to avoid making a mess, ha.

I should get the inside glassing complete this week and paint next weekend.

I'm getting there.
Tim

Removed, somehow double posted

Tim, I think it took a lot more than 12 ounces, more along the lines of 36. But I ran my glass up the sides the full width of the cloth, which was almost to the gunnel near the bow. I'm pretty sure 12 ounces won't do half of it unless you are a lot more frugal with it than I was, and I spread it thin with a metal squeegee ( actually a 12" wallpaper knfe).

Seems to me I read that 12 oz. cloth takes about 12 oz. of resin per square yard, and that section is near 3 yards of cloth counting the sides.

Well, I'll say that I'm not as frugal with the epoxy as I thought I could be. I did get one of those metal rollers to use on the mat though. If 36 ounces is what you recall, then it is probably close. BluffBuilder seemed to recall close to that amount too.

I'm probably going to go up the sides as much as the mat will allow. With 20 yards of 50" fabric I should have enough to get close to the gunnel. Did you purchase extra mat to cover as much as you did, or was the 20 yards in the kit sufficient?

Thanks,
Tim

Tim, I used 2 layers of the cloth inside and out, plus glassed the seat tops and bow deck and completely covered the bow and stern transoms with 2 layers. Still have some fabric left over from the kit. I used near 10 gallons of resin, 2 rolls of tape, twice as much wood flour and filler as was supplied in the kit, but had PLENTY of cloth

Well, I'm doing (what I thought was) a lot of extra glassing, but not near the extent you went to. I won't run out of glass, but hope not to run out of epoxy.

My boat might still make it under 200 pounds now that I grasp how much extra you did to yours.

Tim