CX19 progress updates Perth WA

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Dougster
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Post by Dougster »

Wow, I've missed your thread till now---great work and documentation. You did such a better job with your building jig than I did. Maybe that's why your panels were on and stitched in 4 days while I took 3 or 4 weeks and started feeling like Job! The boat looks huge and must be a very exciting project. Nice job on the canoe too. You'll be laying the glass soon, that'll be a big deal. I had good luck, as a beginner, with peel ply. $50 bought enough for the whole bottom (LB 22).

Wishin' my work looked that good Dougster

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Lucky_Louis
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Post by Lucky_Louis »

Great work so far Gerry, you have a real knack for this! Interesting looking plywood, what species is it? :doh:

The gap at the bow will end up being a blessing - it will make creating the nice rounded stem that much easier. :idea: Lot's of builders use a dowel to fill that gap.

So much for April to finish the hull, eh? :D
Image OB17 Splashed June 2007

gerry
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Post by gerry »

Hi Lucky_Louis,

The species of plywood is Hoop Pine. I really like working with it compared to the plywood I used on the canoe. I do not know how toxic it is as a treated timber, but it is marine grade with no voids. I always use the gas mask, gloves, and vacuum cleaner when working with it. I have noticed some checking under the taping and I think that was due to the extreme temperatures over summer? That is a great idea about using dowling. I could use a cutoff section of a broom stick? My friends always say I have a list of things to do!! I try to make a goal for the month, but as this is the first big boat it is still a big unknown. But the whiteboard is a big motivator!!

I am impressed with your OB17, you have added a lot of inspiring photos. We are all waiting patiently to see it splashed :D

Hi Dougster,

Your boat is coming along very well...you gave me the idea to use snatch straps on this boat while stitching the panels. They were just enough to get everything aligned. The jig was very close but was 5mm out in two sections. Building the model and the real jig is so different! The next boat I will definitely have a good set of pulleys from the beginning. Also next time I will use strongbacks that are in one piece for the full length of the boat. I am still not sure about peel ply? I think I can get it close without it and would like to put on the quick fair the next day so I do not have to sand. If I pre-plan it, this will be not this weekend but the weekend after as I have a five day weekend. It is still a bit daunting though :roll:

Hi Pastor Bob,

Your boat is coming along great too...it is great you are allowing your kids to take part. I was always building stuff with my Dad! I guess the creative bug always gets passed on :D And the funny thing is, after the first few weeks when you see the real size of it, your mindset totally changes to work out how to finish it. You can not wait to see how it will float. I thought the canoe was a big project! It makes a big difference with everyone posting their progress, it motivates me to do a bit each weekend anyway :)

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Lucky_Louis
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Post by Lucky_Louis »

Gerry, here's a rough sketch i did for you showing how I would do the bow.
Image

You could cut the 'dowel' where the line changes at the chine, just avoid gaps between the ends. I would use duct tape on the outside to hold it in place, fillet the inside, pull the tape and fillet the outside. If your lamination schedule is different (more layers) than this, use the one for your design. Hope this helps.
Image OB17 Splashed June 2007

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry »

Amazing drawing. How do you do that :?:

Good advice, too. :D
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Lucky_Louis
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Post by Lucky_Louis »

Thanks Larry. It took less than 10 minutes. Like boatbuilding, sometimes it boils down to the tools :wink: I'm a professional GIS Specialist. Means I use computers to draw maps and manage geographical information. I have access to a great array of drawing and image manipulation tools.

Gerry, I noticed your work area is pretty tight. Will you have to roll outside to flip? Doesn't look like any heat in your building, will that be an issue now that you guys are heading into the dead of winter? :doh:
Image OB17 Splashed June 2007

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Cracker Larry
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Post by Cracker Larry »

8) What software is that?
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Lucky_Louis
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Post by Lucky_Louis »

This one was Photoshop 7.0 (crop and compress), and ArcMap 9.2 (sketch). I also work with MicroStation SE, ArcView 3.x and some AutoCAD 13.
Image OB17 Splashed June 2007

gerry
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Post by gerry »

Thanks Lucky_Louis, that drawing explains it perfectly. I will give it a go tomorrow. That should make for a very nice round bow.

It is a bit of a tight fit in the shed. The hull will have to be swivelled over so it is aligned with the left roller door. Then it should roll forward and out the door. It will have to be on a slight angle to get the widest beam section to fit through the door though! I have enough room to flip the hull in front of the shed. At first I thought a set of pulleys in the shed could be used to flip it but the beam is about an inch too wide to fit under the rafters.

It is getting a bit colder here now. I have just bought an electric oil radiator heater but think I can get away without using it and just use some 100W lamps under the hull to keep it warm if needed. I am more concerned about humidity levels and have seen some good dehumidifiers that can be used in workshops. The temperature gets up to about 20-22C at midday before I start to resin and goes down to about 8-10C at night.

I am very lucky to find a good shed for it, it does not leak any water on the boat even in the heaviest downpours.

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Lucky_Louis
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Post by Lucky_Louis »

I can sympathize on the tight quarters, I had to roll my hull side to side to get enough room to work. 20-22C ? That's not winter! :P

Looks like you may not have enough overhead room in there to build the superstructure once you flip. Finish outside? :doh:
Image OB17 Splashed June 2007

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