A few words on paint

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tech_support
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A few words on paint

Post by tech_support »

Some tips on the using the System 3 LPU paints and primers:

-Sanding the primer with more than 100 grit can lessen the paints ability to adhere. Stick to 100 or less.

-You will get less coverage from colors like yellow and red. Its takes more coats to get an even tint.

-Let the primer cure for at least a few days before painting

-Follow the directions as far as when to apply multiple coats

System Three paints give a very hard finish that is extremely durable. They are also the most easy for an amateur to get right, we highly recommend them.

Here is a video clip of how we roll and tip S3 paint...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTVVjzbA72U
Last edited by tech_support on Thu May 17, 2007 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

JamesSloan
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Post by JamesSloan »

Sanding the primer with more than 100 grit can lessen the paints ability to adhere. Stick to 100 or less.
For the abrasively challenged among us...does 100 or less mean a higher number or a lower number (80 grit is lower, 180 is higher)? :doh:

Thanks!

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Post by tech_support »

100 or lower - use 100, 60, or 36

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JimW
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Post by JimW »

Joel,

How in the world could you ever achieve a good finish if you have to stop at 100 grit? Does this mean work boat finish only from system 3? I know I worked some areas down to 400 grit before painting. Is this more an issue with not cleaning the sanded surface well after sanding?

I just pulled my "bateau.com" stickers off the hull after two years because some black mold started under the edge of the decals. They pulled off fine and no paint came with it. Did I just get lucky?

Just wondering.
Jim Wright
CC, D15, SC16, C19

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Post by tech_support »

JimW wrote: Did I just get lucky?

Just wondering.

I must be a CYA thing. I know a lot of folks have sanded the primer to the point that it shines, and had no problems with the paint sticking. But we have also had guys who’s paint peeled off. When it peeled off, it did so in sheets. I went to S3 with the issue and they said because it came off in sheets - it was obviously an issue with adhesion. It was either a contaminated surface (grease, blush, and something else), or the primer was too smooth and there was not enough “gripâ€

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Post by JimW »

Yep, I had a few spots on my sole where I sweated on it and just wiped it up and didn't "clean" it. Those small circles peeled within 3 months. But the rest of the boat is still "tight" after three years.
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Post by Boomer »

It's not a CYA thing--its pretty standard paint prep. You do the same thing with cars.

If fact if you do a spot repair on an automobile, the standard instruction is to scuff the surface to improve adhesion.

ditto home painting--you only take sheetrock "mud" down to about 80 grit.

REading Shine's note, you can sand the topcoat to your heart's content, because there's no adhesion issue.

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Post by PaulMcClure »

The issue is because System Three paints use a water carrier, rather than the carcinogenic carriers in many other paints. As water molecules are relatively large, you need a better key for the paint to bond properly.

This shouldn't mean a poor finish though - you just get it faired correctly then give it a final key with 100.

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Post by baba101 »

What is a standard paint prep...? :doh:

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Post by brian in cc »

I had just finished wet sanding and buffing my system three paint,it looked incredible.The next day I noticed a small blister on the bow, I picked at it and low and behold every bit of paint peeled off the boat. The boat was only sanded to 100 grit (per joels warning)and wiped clean with acetone many times before coating.I had one small spot near the bow where I had sanded through the primer(wr 155) and oddly enough thats the only place the paint stuck.I'm glad others have had good results with this product, personally I will never use it again. must have been a bad batch.

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