No I'm not familiar with her.
Googled SV Sonja but could not find any reference or pictures.
Reefie's LB26
Re: Reefie's LB26
"If you want something you have never had, then you've got to do something you've never done"
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Re: Reefie's LB26
Not sure what you mean by tapering the long edges, but I say no if I understand.
I think if you cut everything square, you'd leave nice gaps for the necessary glue joins. It is very weird; but gaps are good here in a foam build. Getting the edges to set flat to each other is the real trick. I think 50mm would be good in the tricky areas, but majorly silly narrow in others. I'd even consider trying some kerf cuts to allow for relief, then the edges would stay together. In the bow flare, for example, you could kerf on the inside, see? Then you'd be making your foam like scrim, but better. You could get a narrow tablesaw blade and use less glue. The beauty of the kerf cuts is you could make a long piece and then kerf it as needed and the only penalty would be not enough kerf which you would know immediately(this is why better than scrim). Of course, you are working the kerf blind, but good tablesaw guy can do that well. After the first piece, I do suppose the following section would need some edge tapering, so maybe I got to where you are already, but try kerfs and see if it helps keep the edges truer. I'd say you only need 1/8" or less of core, so be careful cutting and avoid running the hand overtop of blade.
If kerfs work, you could keep all the pieces more like 200mm.
Good luck. I am loving your work. Its gonna be a great boat.
I think if you cut everything square, you'd leave nice gaps for the necessary glue joins. It is very weird; but gaps are good here in a foam build. Getting the edges to set flat to each other is the real trick. I think 50mm would be good in the tricky areas, but majorly silly narrow in others. I'd even consider trying some kerf cuts to allow for relief, then the edges would stay together. In the bow flare, for example, you could kerf on the inside, see? Then you'd be making your foam like scrim, but better. You could get a narrow tablesaw blade and use less glue. The beauty of the kerf cuts is you could make a long piece and then kerf it as needed and the only penalty would be not enough kerf which you would know immediately(this is why better than scrim). Of course, you are working the kerf blind, but good tablesaw guy can do that well. After the first piece, I do suppose the following section would need some edge tapering, so maybe I got to where you are already, but try kerfs and see if it helps keep the edges truer. I'd say you only need 1/8" or less of core, so be careful cutting and avoid running the hand overtop of blade.
If kerfs work, you could keep all the pieces more like 200mm.
Good luck. I am loving your work. Its gonna be a great boat.
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Re: Reefie's LB26
Looking really good! Those are some sexy lines on that there hull.
Re: Reefie's LB26
Thanks for the compliments Browndog - JM has designed a very beautiful boat.
Thanks for the input on foam planking Dan - I will take it on board and cut up a few different widths etc and see what works best.
Thanks for the input on foam planking Dan - I will take it on board and cut up a few different widths etc and see what works best.
"If you want something you have never had, then you've got to do something you've never done"
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Re: Reefie's LB26
I also use a sureform for edge forming under 1/8”-works nice. They cost about ten bucks and mine paid for itself fast. Also works nice for any face tapering, like say bow joins.
I just put a pencil line on it and file away.
How are you going to bond the splash rail to the hullsides? If you put a rebate in you core lower panel; you could allow for a tape seam or two. I use an electric planer. I customized mine, but I have hundreds of feet. For you; you could set it for say 0.080. Or you could sureform it all and run 1/4 sheet sander. The idea is you won’t habe tons of fairing then.
I just put a pencil line on it and file away.
How are you going to bond the splash rail to the hullsides? If you put a rebate in you core lower panel; you could allow for a tape seam or two. I use an electric planer. I customized mine, but I have hundreds of feet. For you; you could set it for say 0.080. Or you could sureform it all and run 1/4 sheet sander. The idea is you won’t habe tons of fairing then.
Re: Reefie's LB26
Very nice!
Re: Reefie's LB26
Thanks Bogiman.
Fallguy, after mucking around with various widths and configurations, I settled on planks 100mm wide, with the upper edge bevelled to provide a gap for gluing. The planks touch on the inner face (except right at the bow) which will make it easier to fill without the glue squeezing right through (I hope).
The port side is complete (except for some battens where necessary), and I have made a start on the starboard side.
Happy building everyone!
Cheers,
Reefie
Fallguy, after mucking around with various widths and configurations, I settled on planks 100mm wide, with the upper edge bevelled to provide a gap for gluing. The planks touch on the inner face (except right at the bow) which will make it easier to fill without the glue squeezing right through (I hope).
The port side is complete (except for some battens where necessary), and I have made a start on the starboard side.
Happy building everyone!
Cheers,
Reefie
"If you want something you have never had, then you've got to do something you've never done"
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Re: Reefie's LB26
Dang.
This is boat porn.
This is boat porn.
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