I hate myself for this... this is one of the reasons I'm not sure I'll use epoxy for another build. You can't thin epoxy like you can ester resins to get into those holes. What you can do is use slow hardener and warm up the resin which makes the mix behave like super-fast. You have to be careful when warming though. Too hot can be terribly bad and result in chemical burns. I would shoot for a super small qty and no more than 95deg resin temp before adding the slow hardener.
Chem thinners, like acetone, change the properties of epoxy and shouldn't be used. That said... this is just a filler, not a structural application. It might be worth a try. If you try chem thinning, be aware it may impact the finish at that location.
Quikfair Questions
- Jaysen
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Re: Quikfair Questions
Re: Quikfair Questions
I suppose I could sand them out, but then I have to “re-fair” those spots. (Not to suggest my fairing is immaculate, by any stretch.)
Jbo
Jbo
- Jaysen
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Re: Quikfair Questions
There is no magic solution. Even if you bridge the opening there’s a likelihood of it opening on subsequent sanding. Sand them out or thin a filler enough to fill them completely.
And equally bad solution is to open individual holes up a bit to allow ticker material in. That works better for isolated holes though.
And equally bad solution is to open individual holes up a bit to allow ticker material in. That works better for isolated holes though.
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Re: Quikfair Questions
Here's a real-world solution for you. Stand back from the boat until you can no longer see those little flaws. Then ask yourself how often someone is going to be looking at it from that distance. If the answer is never, or rarely, then time for high build primer.
Re: Quikfair Questions
This is my general attitude of the whole finish. LOLOneWayTraffic wrote: ↑Mon Jun 19, 2023 8:08 pm Here's a real-world solution for you. Stand back from the boat until you can no longer see those little flaws. Then ask yourself how often someone is going to be looking at it from that distance. If the answer is never, or rarely, then time for high build primer.
I was really thinking more about how well future coats of QF/high build would bridge and if it would cause flaws to develop later.
Jbo
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Re: Quikfair Questions
You can always lay the primer on it and then see what it looks like. If you think you need to you can always lay some Quickfair over the primer on the bad spots.
Re: Quikfair Questions
I'll say again, Sikkens Kombi Putty worked great for me and I had lots of pinholes. It was dead easy. I smeared it on with a finger, waited 5 mminutes and sanded it down in a moment. Have used it under Sterling, EMC, and enamal w/o trouble. Has anyone else used it?
Dougster
Dougster
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Re: Quikfair Questions
Stuff is made with same chem base as nail polish..I checked to find out if hygroscopic.Dougster wrote: ↑Tue Jun 20, 2023 9:16 am I'll say again, Sikkens Kombi Putty worked great for me and I had lots of pinholes. It was dead easy. I smeared it on with a finger, waited 5 mminutes and sanded it down in a moment. Have used it under Sterling, EMC, and enamal w/o trouble. Has anyone else used it?
Dougster
Nail polish and fumed silica sound like a cheap try..
Re: Quikfair Questions
8 years later, no problem yet.
Dougster
Dougster
Re: Quikfair Questions
How hard does the QF get to sand if you miss the 4-6 hour window. Seems I remember reading that it continues to harden and becomes less easy to sand.
Jbo
Jbo
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