BASIC electrical system info.

[jbo_c]

Jaysen, if a generator is really the only feasible call, I’m (kind of) OK with it. It will probably mean I don’t spend as much time on the boat as I otherwise might.

The generator will have to be very small and much quieter than any of the “quiet” ones I’ve seen in use to not have a negative impact on the tranquility I’d like to have when I’m at anchor(maybe I run the generator only when I’m already motoring).

I appreciate your feedback. I’d rather have real answers than rosey ones any day. I really thought there would possibly be something simple that would adequately run just a laptop.

Jbo

[jbo_c]

Also, I’ll definitely take your advice and skip solar on the chicken coop since I’ve been trying to figure out if that would be worth it.

Jbo

[Jaysen]

As a guy who’s been plotting to live off grid on sailboats, you’re not getting away from assisted charging. Meaning no one is actually doing 100% no mains/generator. Every single one I research plugs into something at some point.

That said here was my boat plan:
* everything LED
* everything direct 12v (no AC)
* 1K solar kit for my emergency battery (separate from house that can run bildge, radio, lights)
* 9.9 sail pro (high thrust with 25a alternator)
* charge manager topping off house batts from motor
* 3x AGM house batts.

I think you can modify that to meet your needs.

You don’t need an inverter to run a laptop (or any computer). They all run DC internally. You just need the correct power regulator and plug. Find a local nerd that likes craft beer and your problem on that front will vanish in about 8minutes (for a diagram and parts list). If you want him to build it… a week.

[jbo_c]

I notice there’s no generator in your list, so the alternator will do all your charging?

I think I can get a DC cord for my laptop. I’ll have to check. Then just the math to see how big(?) a deep cycle battery it will take.

Jbo

[Jaysen]

The Sailpro outboards would provide enough charging for us. Would require running a couple times a week for a couple hours when no wall power is handy. Honda's are almost inaudible at 50% throttle.

The local nerd will know. For example, I know that my laptop power supply says it will supply 20a to my stupidly overspec'd Dell laptop. But in reality, the laptop isn't capable of consuming more than 5a sustained and 10a peak before it melts every wire between the power brick and the laptop. And there are only 2 wires (ground and 12v+). So... 1x$120 walmart deep-cycle runs my laptop on my "it doesn't exist" power supply for about 2 days. keep in mind I'm cognizant of proper power management to do that.
1. Don't just plug in and use the laptop. run on battery.
2. shutdown laptop, plug in and charge.
3. When leaving for lunch, put in hibernate and charge. If you can't hibernate, shutdown and charge.

Short answer... when charging, no other use of the system.

[fallguy1000]

I notice there’s no generator in your list, so the alternator will do all your charging?

I think I can get a DC cord for my laptop. I’ll have to check. Then just the math to see how big(?) a deep cycle battery it will take.

Jbo

The problem with dc power for the laptop is it won't be regulated well. For me, not worth fryin a laptop for the AC inverter cost...they are regulated..and so is the laptop ac-dc supply

[Jaysen]

Fallguy, you are speaking out your posterior on that one. You can buy official power supplies for DC. You can regulate DC much easier than square wave or pwm AC. These things aren’t new tech. They just aren’t profitable so no one wants to sell them.

And before you start trying to argue with me look at every last car, truck, boat, plane or other thing out there that isn’t on mains. They all run on DC and all have the same sensitivity to power regulation. It’s not rocket science, just boring science.

[jbo_c]

Showing my ignorance, what is “regulated well”? I have a vague sense of what that means(ie I know pure sine inverter is the best option because of unicorns or fairy dust or . . . - see, my understanding is breaking down already.).

If the battery isn’t being charged when in use, would that eliminate the “well regulated” problem?

Also, if there is a cord from the manufacturer for DC, wouldn’t that suggest they find it acceptable or have something in-line or in the system to handle it?

It’s a work computer, so I’m sure they’d also rather I didn’t fry it.

Jbo

[Jaysen]

All power fluctuates between voltages. DC voltage is expressed in nominal meaning the “expected average” between upper and lower acceptable limits. For 12v DC that’s 14.1 - 10.1. For AC it’s the expected generator output voltage at the given frequency. For US systems it’s supposed 110v@60HZ/leg. The swing is nominal at 108-128v and 54-68HZ. Most systems in the US have casually moved to 120v@62hz/leg with the wall measuring 128v just about all the time.

Regulation of voltage is taking all the swings, and leveling them to the exact voltage that your device needs. Which, nearly everything that doesn’t catch on fire in todays world does quite well. Fallguy’s point does stand that you can’t just shove any old voltage into any old device. An AC power supply can’t regulate DC input (unless it’s is designed to do so). The opposite is true as well.

Hope that helps a bit.

[jbo_c]

Thanks, Jaysen. That makes sense.

Jbo